Hello All,

Although I am not a fan of Factory Speakers, I know the ones in my 1998 GMC Jimmy SLS Still work, its just the piece of crap AC/Delco Deck that isn't sending sound to a few of them, And sometimes it does. (Common problem I hear!)

Anyway, I had some nice Focal Car Audio speakers but I stupidly had them in the box, in the back of my truck brand new and someone broke in and stole them.

I am installing the following products:

http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...?model=KTP-445
Alpine iDA-X305

http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...?model=KTP-445
Alpine 45x4 Watts RMS Power Amp Addon

The deck is 350$, the Amp is 150$. I don't really want to spend anymore than that right now, Since I don't know when my Jimmy is supposed to break down next and I must prepare for that. (350K, lol)


I am wondering if anyone knows the RMS Power handling or model of the factory speakers, I want to know if they will sound decent given proper amplification. (I'm sure they can't be that bad..) I have heard some factory speakers sound pretty amazing with the right Head Unit and an amp, even in old piece of crap cars.


Can anyone help me out,

PS: I'm not sure if this is in the right forum, If its not I apologize sincerly.

 

that amp might be alittle to much i think the 50 watts but if you tune the amp just right and the cd player it will sound good

 

Hey there, Thanks for the reply.

I will spend some time tuning it up properly, I will make absolutely sure the speaker wires are polarity matched. (By the way, Is there any way to tell with the factory wires which Polarity is what by Wire colours on these). Because, of course, There is no real reason to change the factory speaker wire! ($$$ Game)

My drivers side 6.5" sounds a little dead, But, I think its just the deck, Because the speakers cut in and out. When they do work, ocasionally - They sound just fine, Minus the dirty cassette player being used with an iPhone 3G via Tape Adapter

The 45X4 Amp is nice, Its not overly expensive ($150 USD), It connects right to the back of an Alpine deck, And connects via the factory deck Harness.

However, My question now would be - Is there a Factory GMC Jimmy to Alpine Deck Harness available, I absolutely refuse to cut wires. I was able to find one for my 1991 Chevrolet Sprint Convertable...

I'd love to know, If anyone has one, a Model number for the Factory speakers so I can look them up on the web some more.

Thanks guys,
-Cide

 

A good way to check polarity is with a 9 volt battery (or any batter I would think).

Touch the wires to the battery *quickly* and if the woofer pushes out, then you have correct polarity, if they push in then you have the positive on the negative. Either way, you at least know which is which with just one touch.

Keep in mind that if you keep the wires connected to the battery for an extended period of time, you could damage the speaker. make it quick and try to do it once.


As for the deck harness there is a harness to connect from the back of the deck to the stock harness of the blazer. You can pick it up at wal-mart I believe.

Do a google search for the Scosche GM02B / GM02. I'm pretty sure your 98 uses the same harness as my 00.

 

stock speakers are usually only capable of very low power. anywere from 3 to 15 watts is not uncommon.

 

I went ahead and installed the new deck, the Alpine stereo looks great in the Jimmy along with a Dash Kit that has a CD tray underneath and simular plastic molding when comparing to the rest of the dash.

The problem is that my (stock) speakers are still having the exact same intermitent problems.

Most of the time the only speaker that is working is the Front Right, Sometimes however the Rear Right kicks in, and even less often does the Drivers Left work properly. I double checked the wires, even sprayed contact cleaner on the factory harness, And even took out the Aftermarket Deck and plugged in the original deck and the speakers were doing the same thing.

I am leaning towards blown speakers, But, When the speakers do work they sound fine to my ears, perhaps a bit muddy but otherwise they work fine, they turn up etc.

I bought new speakers yesterday but have not yet removed the door trim to install them, Which I plan to do today. I am hoping its not a ground/short somewhere between the factory harness and the door speakers.

For the record, the Rear Left speaker has never, ever worked. (While the rest continually cut in and out, and the Front Right always works.)

I really don't feel like running new wires, I'd much rather just return all this car audio and forget about the entire idea...

But perhaps someone has some more insight into this issue... Do you think the speaker coils are partially burnt to the point where they may short circuit from time to time? or could it be the wires may be grounding against metal.. sigh.

I guess I only have to remove the door trim on the Drivers side door, and try a new speaker to see immediatly if its a wire or speaker issue.

___
I have a guide detailing where the points of contact are on the Front doors, and dissassembly procedures (2 Bolts, remove button panel, remove door handle trim then door trim) are the rear doors much different in the event it is my speakers and I replace everything?

 

sounds to me like you have a loose connection somewhere - probably where the wires connect to the speakers. when torubleshooting, always start at the beginning, not the middle.

 

Figured it all out! Got the Front door panels off on both sides, Then took out the factory speakers by cutting the clip off the wire, And then crimping speaker connectors on the correct (Pos/Neg) wires.

Attached to the new speakers, And the front left side which never worked for the most part was suddenly working again. I pushed the woofer inwards slightly on the stock speakers, There was no rubbing or indication it was blown..

Upon further closer inspection I noticed there was Green calcification or oxidization formed around one of the solder connections, Which would explain everything I am pretty certain that this is the "Common Plague" causing these speaker problems with Jimmys/Blazers.

New speakers sound great, Unfortunatly had to drill holes in the plastic to make them fit, Which was an unexpected step. Also, forgot to put the foam that surrounded the plastic around the speaker back. Not sure what, if any benefit that stuff would provide, But I'm keeping it just incase...


Cheers, Thanks alot for the help, You guys.
Going to make a seperate thread regarding rear door panels... *Cringes*

 

It was my experience that the rear speakers were easier than the front. I got lucky though, my sony xplodes were universal. If there was a hole configuration, they had it covered. Other than that, I'm glad you were able to get the speakers figured out.

Now if my JVC head unit would get hear I could enjoy my speakers again

 

Hey guys,
Heh, I did the rears this weekend, It was easier than the fronts for sure!!

I almost pulled my door apart before noticing the hidden panel Swartek was talking about, In the area where you pull open the door and unscrew two bolts.

The only problem I really had was one of the damn window buttons, after popping it out, it won't go back in tight, I tried bending the metal so it would be tighter but that only made it worse... Gm uses some pretty retarded designs sometimes. Things that are designed to break after one or two removals... Unless you have "the touch"

The friggen thing sounds amazing,
Only spent 130$ on front speakers and 98$ on rear speakers, I can only imagine what it would sound like if I had the money to spend 1200$ on a pair of 6.5 Inch Focal speakers for all 4 slots... but perhaps the guys who need to buy speakers that expensive require them to make up for extensive hearing loss :P