Found this rated 8 gauge, 4 channel , ofc kit. Couldn't find an 8 gauge, 4 channel on Knu. Would this be something to look at?

NVX XKIT84 100% Copper 8 Gauge Car Amp Install Kit w/ 4-Ch RCA

 

There's nothing wrong with using two separate kits except that it's more expensive. I did so in my Jimmy, however the biggest reason for doing so was because when I was purchasing the wiring, amps, etc. I had planned on putting in the amp for the highs first. I ended up ordering the kit for the sub amp before I had the opportunity to install the highs amp and wiring so I went ahead and installed them both and at the same time. It does offer a bit more flexibility as well because if you have to unhook or disconnect the power for the sub amp you can just pull the fuse at the front on the 0 gauge and the highs amp on the 4 gauge keeps on going because it's on a separate wire and fuse. Either that or get a 0 gauge kit and use a distribution block to separate the power to the amps in the back. Personally I like the idea of them being separate from the front. It makes it easier to mount the amps in different locations if absolutely necessary as well.

As for the input, the amp has the older screw type terminals that you have to use spade type connectors for. That means there really isn't a size restriction on the wire size as long as the terminal can fit under the screw which shouldn't be any problem as on Rockford's website they recommend 4 gauge wire. The amp wiring kit from Knu has the terminals you need to do this. I would recommend the 4 channel kit as it already comes with all the RCA's and enough speaker wire to install a 4 channel amp and you'll have 4 gauge in place just in case you go to a 1200 watt 4 channel or something like that in the future, lol.

As for the alternator, I've had absolutely zero experience with the Knu alts, nor do I know anyone who has. For about another $100 you can get a 250A from Singer Alternators, mine has been holding up very well. Mechman, DC Power and Singer are the only three I would trust in my own vehicle right now. I've used two out of the three and know plenty of people who've used Mechman with no issues. The 250A DC XP in my van is a monster alt, yes it was super expensive, but it's a workhorse and a half.

 

Been doing some thinking about the future door speaker upgrades a bit this week. The more I think about it, the sadder I am that I purchased some not so great 6.5's without really knowing what I was doing, and the thought of buying that RF p300-4 knowing I want to swap out the doors in the near future has made me have second thoughts on the amp.

But no worries, did some looking around and have some ideas up in the air right now. Will be made final by Friday. Wanted to upgrade the fronts now, to some 2 way components. Just not sure which, have been looking at 2 different pairs around what I want to pay right now. (budget is 120/pair to purchase them comfortably this Friday).

Polk Audio db6501 6.5" 2-way Component Car Speakers System (db 6501) or

Paired with this nice looking steal
Pioneer GM-D8604 600W RMS Class D 4-Channel Car Amplifier and the 4gauge 4channel Set from Knu.

Amp looks as solid as the RF, just more kick to it. Should be able to give whatever set of comps I choose, a solid steady 100rms. One set first, hopefully the other Pioneers won't blow until I get the rest of the system paid for. Then I can upgrade the rear doors to something suitable for what I am running. With the better amp it just opens doors to upgrade. (Your idea :P) If/when this plays out, I want to imitate your comp door build. Looked nice and clean.

 

I can sympathize with you on that, lol. Both the sets you listed would be decent sets for the money, I talk to quite a few guys on a regular basis that have tried the IA's and liked them. I'll toss some other suggestions for nice components out as well to give you a few more options. The Pioneer TS-D1720C components sound lovely and can handle a bit more power than they're rated for. They've had great reviews for several years. For just a hair more than you were looking at spending on the other components there's the Hertz DSK 165 components. They're a fantastic sounding set for the money. Lastly the Alpine SPS-610C and Alpine SPR-60C sets are tried and true sets that lots of people have enjoyed for a long time too.

A couple more suggestions on the amps would be the PPI i520.4 and the PPI S760.4 amps. Those PPI amps are like the IA components in that I know several people using them and getting great performance from them.

If you're conservative with the gains you shouldn't have any problems with the rear speakers. I wouldn't worry too much about them though. I would even try listening to the truck without the rear speakers playing for awhile if I were you. I found the experience a little grating when I first tried it, but after making a few EQ adjustments and doing more critical listening I can't stand to hear them play, lol. Especially with all the adjustments the Clarion has, you'll be better off as far as staging and imaging is concerned without them. Once you get used to good staging and imaging you just can't listen to anything else, lol.

Thank you for the compliments on my component installation. Once the motor is done in the truck I'm going to be installing the sub and an amp for the tweeters. Then using the Sundown amp on the mids, and the new Focal amp on the tweeters, and the crossover controls of the Clarion HU I'll be going with an active system and getting away from the limitations of the passive crossovers that came with the components. It will be more trouble to tune, but the results should be far improved over the current response. That also gets my foot in the door for doing a big active setup with an 8" or 10" mid and something like a 3" full range. Can you say EPIC midbass? lol I know a guy with a Honda Accord that did a similar setup with 12" midbass speakers. The thing is nuts.

Remember, installation is everything. When it comes to the tweeters don't permanently mount them at first. Use something like double sided tape to stick them in a location and listen to them for awhile, play with the EQ, level switch on the crossover (if so equipped, most are either a switch or changing a terminal on the crossover) and time alignment and try to find the location they sound the best. Once you find a place they sound best to you permanently mount them there. Always keep them on the same plane, or same level and really give them listening time. Don't stick them in a location, listen to it for 30 minutes and say it doesn't sound good and move them that fast. Give each location a week or so that way you can really give the play time and time to listen to each adjustment you make. It's a bit of work but well well well worth the trouble in the long run. While their placement is limited, unless you plan on doing a great deal of custom fiberglass work, the installation of the mids is just as important. Good midbass will bring a smile to your face every time. Solid mounting and preventing the back wave inside the door from interfering with the front is the key to making great midbass with any speaker. It also helps to keep the midrange clear and crisp as it should be. I've had a lot of people swear I had some kind of sub in the truck when demoing my components. It all makes a difference.

 

12" midrange? WTF haha that's insane. Wouldn't know where to put it ! Though I would love to hear it in action !

As for the suggestions.....once again you have set me back on the right path as far as good manufacturer quality. I think I have come up with a final idea for this weekends purchases. Which include your suggestions via comps and amp.

So for the amp, definitely stuck on the Sedona 760.4 will be nice to have 2 amps from the same company when this build is finished. (PPIBK1800.1d :P)
Ebay with warranty for 125 shipped. Oh and paypal helps a lot with ebay of course. Always scared of the "get what you paid for scenario".

And for the comps, im kinda up in the air between two of them, and you can probably settle this for me when you read this. I have priced them out all over the net today and found some of the HertzDSK's for 150 shipped. Also found some of the SPR-60c's for 142 shipped. Both seem awesome in quality and customer satisfaction. And with them only 8 bucks different the only question is which one is supreme. Knowing each comes with pros and cons...which one has the most pros ! When you referenced the Hertz you seemed a bit more enthusiastic about them so I have been falling on their side of the fence a bit more than the Alpines (and their sexy BONUS POINTS!)

So all in all, either setup works for me, just want to know your thoughts on the comps v comps. For under 350, think this will be a perfect purchase.

 

lol, well there's a big difference between midbass and midrange. A dedicated midbass plays from somewhere in the bass realm (50-60hz) up in the neighborhood of 200 to 300hz. That's the general range of midbass. Things like drums, bass guitar's, etc. play well into this range. Even on bass drums that have a strong bass fundamental there's an accompanying ring or overtone that is where the midbass lies. With a good strong midbass response a subwoofer is almost not even needed. Like I said, a lot of people have sworn I had some kind of sub in the truck with the components. Jared's Honda does have a 15" Fi BTL sub in it as well but it only plays 40hz and down handling only the deepest stuff. The 12's are installed in custom made door panels in the car. A build log on it can be found HERE. The build log starts out with 10's in the doors first, unfortunately the part with the 12's was lost when the website was shuffled to new servers. I do believe there are pictures of the car in his photo albums though with both the 10's and 12's HERE.

There's nothing wrong with matching brands, but don't let it rule every time you want to make a choice on something.

On the comps, well, you're going to have to flip a coin, lol. They're both great sets but they're going to sound better to, and appeal to different people because every person has different tastes in sound, what they like, what they don't like, and how important response problems are to them. What I think sounds good could sound like complete crap to you. One of the best pieces of advice I've gotten in a while when discussing response issues with my current component set was to never think or assume you're buying the last set of speakers, especially with the first few purchases. There's always room to improve, always, and upgrading is just a natural part of the process.

The SSA site that Jared's build is on is one of the best audio site's I visit. There's a great deal of collective knowledge there from competitor's to SQ enthusiasts. The best part of the site, in my opinion, is that they'll give it to you straight. You may not like the answer, but it's accurate. There's been some people leave that site because they couldn't handle being wrong, lol. Seriously though, some of the guys can be awfully critical, but they're only trying to steer people in the right direction. Besides, it's only advice, like mine, a person doesn't have to listen to it.

 

Update, 4 channel amp came in today and looks amazing. Rest of the stuff I ordered should be here before the weekend and my build thread with pics will be started here in the next few days ! Thanks again Alton.

 

I don't know if this was already stated.. But that head unit won't have hi-pass filters for the subs, or dedicated sub RCA's. Might wanna get a different one.

 

Unless something changed after post #6 & #7 he has a Clarion CZ702 and that unit has more than enough outputs and adjustability to run most major setups. Front, Rear, and Subwoofer pre-outs, high AND low pass crossovers for all three sets of pre-outs, digital time alignment for each output and speaker levels for each set of pre-outs as well allowing fully active capability. All that coupled with a fairly powerful 5 band parametric EQ and the fact that both the EQ and crossovers are able to be adjusted in ~1/3 octave increments from 16hz all the way out to 20khz (depending on the crossover/EQ setting) his head unit has more than enough capability than most need for the average setup.


You don't think I undersold the capabilities of that unit do you? LOL

 

I was too lazy to read the whole thing, didn't know you changed the H.U. you wanted. hah. Good deal.