While tearing apart my truck today from my pita moonroof leaking I was going to take the opportunity to install my 4 way pioneer 6x9's..the diameter was fine, but they were too deep and the magnet was against the outer body panel. Is there an adapter or something I need to make these work? Or do I Just need to look into a slimmer speaker?

 

It's easy enough to take some MDF or plywood and cut out a spacer. Figure out how thick it needs to be and as long as the speaker doesn't need to be out so far that it comes up against the interior panel then you're golden.

 

What alton said. Make a spacer out of something, usually out of MDF. Search Fl-ebay for 6x9 MDF rings.
6x9 MDF rings | eBay

 

I read through everything here after finding those crazy little tweeters in the 4x6 adapter in my girls 2000 4 Door Blazer LT. I just wanted something stock-like to replace them and realizing I wasnt going to find those anywhere, and reading here that some regular 4x6's would work with possible shoe-horning, I rolled the dice on some Metra RoadWorks 4x6 Dual Cone Speakers, Part # AW-646SP (4 to 8 ohm Compatible). National Auto has them in my area for 12.99 each. So to the root of my post... They dropped in there with no cutting. Screw holes lined up close enough that they all went in straight... Before screwing it down though, there was a little 1/8" lift on one corner when the other 3 corners of the speaker were hitting home. The covers went on relatively smooth and everything sat snugly all the way around with the final two screws in. They give a fuller sound to the stock system vs not having any sound in the dash. They sound good for what they are, though i dont think they would survive maximum volume. Nothing rattled or vibrated at where i was comfortable turning it up to. They even came with connectors. I recommend cutting the original ones out where the wires meet the speaker and leaving the factory connector in line so you have enough length to play with. I believe the speaker wire is 18 guage and the hex head screws you will run into are 7mm. Hopefully this may take the guesswork out of this operation for someone else. This forum has been an immeasurable help to me with both my S10s and her Blazer more times than I can count. So thanks to everyone and hope I could contribute a bit however trivial it may be.

 

I see a lot of info on the speakers in the earlier model trucks. I have a 2000 blazer that has 61/2 in. speakers in the rear doors. But I am still not sure if I can use 4 ohm speakers or not. Is the radio in the 2000 able to handle the lower impedance speakers?

 

I put an Xplod in my front door, and there was a 4 OHM speaker there, so I just swapped it into the back door which was a 9.5 OHM. Before, the 9.5 would kick on every so rare an occasion at terribly poor volume. The 4 in the back now will not hesitate to come on, but it's volume is just terrible. Maybe a third as filling as being up front. I'm sure it will change if I get another speaker for the other door, but dang.

I'll also mention that both front and rear speakers are the same size for me. Not sure of the size though

 

6-3/4" speakers? I love how GM conspires with DELCO to make everything just a wee bit non-standard, so you can't use off-the-shelf parts. I guess it's all part of their grand plan to coerce you into going to the dealer for everything.

"Look at you! Now don't you feel stupid? You shudda known those fries wouldn't fit in the cup-holder. You shudda gone to the dealer. For only $79.99 you cudda got exact-fit OEM fries ready to pickup within 30 days that wudda fit perfectly but you couldn't resist those One Dollar 5-minute fries at Micky-Dees and now look at the mess you're in!"

 

Why's Best Buy saying Pioneer TS-A4675R's won't fit in my '96 Blazer LT's dash? They're half off so I really want to get them.

 

It's due to the depth. The 4x6 size itself will fit perfectly but due to the shape of the dash and the duct work for the HVAC system there's not much depth there. All but the smallest 4x6 speakers are too deep to fit without hitting the structure underneath. The dash was built and designed around those little tweeter plates being used in that location. Even the crappy 4x6 factory speakers that GM uses in so many other vehicle won't fit in the location on these trucks.

Get yourself a decent set of component speakers. Put the 6.5" mid in the doors, mount the tweeter to the factory tweeter plate and don't look back.

 

I took the cover plates/grills off the dash and found nothing inside except a fiberboard delete cover. No factory wiring or connector either.

BTW I've discovered that RockAuto has a few of those little OEM dash tweeters set in a 4x6 plate that some Blazers originally came with.

Any way, the sound in my Blazer is on the floor and it has no mid-range or highs. It's downright crappy even to the untrained ear. It's an AM/FM/Cass 4-speaker system. One speaker in each front door and one speaker in each rear door. That's it!

So I removed a front door panel and found a 4-ohm, 6.5-6.75" paper cone driver with the silly whizzer cone in the center. It has very little travel/excursion, so I'm guessing about 15watts.

The grill opening in the rear doors is noticeably smaller than the fronts, so I'm guessing that the rear doors have 5.25" "full range speakers" with "whizzer cones". I don't really care, because I'm disconnecting them.

I'm currently in the process of installing new front door speakers and new 4x6 dash speakers


DASH
The 200 watt Pioneer TS-A4675R 4" X 6" 3-Way Speakers fit just fine in the dash locations provided you use the included adapter rings which need to be screw mounted on.The standoffs on the grill/covers need to be trimmed down about 1/4" or sawed off altogether. I used a dremel with a sharp toothed metal saw wheel about 7mm in diameter. My dash speaker covers are very brittle with age and I think that I'll saw off both standoffs and use adhesive backed Velcro to stick them down.

The Pioneer speakers of all sizes seem to have the highest avg Custmr review ratings on Amazon, so they should be a big help with filling in some mids and highs and getting the sound off the floor.


FRONT DOORS
In the front doors, I'm dropping in some Powerbass S675 6.75-Inch Coxial OEM Speakers. 150 Watts peak power handling 4-Ohm nominal impedance 63Hz - 20Khz Frequency response and 89db efficiency.

These speakers have "GM" and "OEM" on the box but don't be fooled! They are not exact-fit, drop-in replacements. They match the factory size and they aren't too deep to fit, but all of the many mounting holes fail to line up with the factory screw holes. You need to drill new holes. Screws and screw clip anchors are included with the speakers, so you won't have to re-use those darn torx screws. These are 2-way speakers and can handle significantly more power than the cheap paper factory units.

REAR DOORS
SCUTTLED. Disconnected. Disabled.
My Pioneer FH-X700BT head unit only supports 4 speakers at 50 watts peak each, so I'm just gonna drive the dash and front doors. I don't have kids or anybody in the rear seat anyway and I'd prefer to have the sound in front of me instead of behind on the floor. Maybe someday I'll do an amp install and start looking to drive more speakers but for now, the rear door 5.25s are getting their plugs pulled.

Here are the pertinent RPO codes from my glovebox:

UM6 -- AM/FM STEREO, SEEK/SCAN, AUTO REV CASS, CLOCK, ETR (Bass & Treble controls, no equalizer)
UP8 -- PROVISIONS, AM/FM STEREO, INSTRUMENTATION
U73 -- Antenna Fixed Radio