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Project Jeep-killing Chevy. 2000 4x4 Blazer

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  #1  
Old 07-26-2015, 02:40 PM
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Default Project Jeep-killing Chevy. 2000 4x4 Blazer

In short, plans are:
-mod engine for a lil more horsepower/torque
-Solid axle swap Dana 44 front and rear, mechanical locker in rear, aiming for around 6" higher than stock (im at about 2" higher than stock now)
-35" m/t's
-custom front&rear bumper(winchbox with8500 lb superwinch up front)
you get the idea


I'm starting with the Engine first......

-port and polish intake manifold(done)
-Port and "polish" heads
-COMP Cams 56-450-8 - Magnum Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
-ls6 valve springs
-Timing Chain Kit
-Gaskets from the head up
-have ECU programmed
-egr delete
-headers(?)
-cat/ downstream o2 sensor delete
a few other little things too


parts i have so far:
-COMP Cams 56-450-8 - Magnum Hydraulic Roller Camshafts(ordered)
-ls6 valve springs
-comp cams 787 retainers
-Head Bolt kit(fel-pro)
-Head Gaskets(fel-pro)
-Intake-Up Gasket Kit(fel-pro)
-Timing chain& gear kit
-Timing chain cover
-Oil Pan Gasket
-Valve cover gaskets
- e-fan from a 2005 Volvo s40



Mods i have already done:

-throttle body mod
-MPFI injector conversion
-some evap deletes
-Glasspack
-added aluminum skids
-2"shackles
-Torsion bar cranked
-Fender trimming
-Custom Rock Sliders
-custom toolbox in cargo area
-31" tires
-added leather heated seats
-pulled abs fuse(may bypass completely with proportioning valve)
-a/c delete
-AIR system delete
more im forgetting...
 
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2015, 02:46 PM
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Saw your thread over on s10 I'll be watching the build for sure!
 
  #3  
Old 07-26-2015, 02:49 PM
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rock sliders






intake:






couldn't believe how much die grinding has to be done to gasket match these heads and intake..





engine torn down













time to get this pile of parts off my table!





e-fan test fit, now just to make brackets....





well, this is where I'm at right about now. more to come soon! cam is going in in the next few days, and more mods are getting added to the list all the time
 
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  #4  
Old 07-27-2015, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rexmburns
Saw your thread over on s10 I'll be watching the build for sure!
I thought I saw this on S10Forum.
 
  #5  
Old 07-28-2015, 10:50 AM
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I did what you have done what you have done to your heads and intake and noticed a small loss of torque. The cam you have selected will also loose some 'below peak' power. Is that what you want? My work on a flow bench shows 'polish' will return nothing. My recomendations, raise compression slightly to make the cam work a lot better. By milling the heads you introduce valve geometry problems which must be addressed.
 
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:32 AM
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LeWhite, thanks for your input! here's where I'm at with everything/a couple questions about your response


yeah, I know I'm going to loose some low rpm power from the cam. peak range is 1800-5000 rpm on this cam I believe. I realize that its not ideal for lowrange offroading(which I do often) but I also want to be able to push 37's and dana 44/60 axles(just sourced a set out of a old ram 2500 8 lug full floating rear)around town and highway and have some fun on the streets.


when I say porting and polishing I don't mean actual polishing. I'm using the word "polishing" loosely. I'm using a die grinding bit to get the rough stuff, and then a flapper wheel to "polish" it. you had less torque on a dyno after gasket matching? I wasn't expecting large gains or even noticeable gains from this to be honest, I was just trying to get a little better airflow. I honestly do not see how it would be possible to get worse performance by removing an obstruction from my airflow passages(unless it wasn't properly tuned for that). I would appreciate it if you could further explain .


Also, without changing rods, and pistons is it okay to run higher compression? im pretty sure that was a stupid question...but im a body/ metal fab guy, not a engine builder haha so more advise would be awesome! would more compression help get me back some of my low end power? how much compression would you recommend? Now is the time for me to figure all this out, while heads are still off!



well this is what ive gotten done in the meanwhile




timing gears and chain hooked up after cam was installed. set is out of a 350.






oil pan painted and reinstalled







and timing cover re installed
 
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Last edited by chevyriders; 08-10-2015 at 06:38 AM.
  #7  
Old 08-09-2015, 03:41 PM
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one design flaw i see with those sliders.... though i doubt youre going to be bouncing this thing off of trees. i had a big issue with smaller trees getting stuck in front and behind of my sliders where the gap is which always made for a fun time trying to get unstuck, i just ran another pipe from the end to the frame so the tree would slide out.

if you dont plan on many tree side swipes then disregard that advice
 
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:37 AM
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abig84...that's a really good idea. while I don't plan on taking any tree hits.... they happen all the time haha. and I did have one get caught up once already before I pulled the engine back out. one more thing to add to the list once I break out the welder on her again.
 
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:31 PM
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Following.
 
  #10  
Old 08-13-2015, 11:51 AM
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finally got the block painted! used ppg epoxy sealer(dp90lv) and PPG single stage(DCC) paint. the color is GM's Race Red accent color.





Also, after a ton of research, I'm dropping my heads off at the machine shop on Monday to have them milled .030 which should bring my compression up to right around 10:1 give or take a little. also, im having them mill my intake side of the head back to the factory angle(10 degrees im told) so my intake will still fit properly.
 
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