I'd take that bet or I mean I'll change the distributor cap and rotor. I can almost remember when the dist. cap was closer to the front of the engine. Maybe I can get that done this evening and report back, might take until Tuesday.

 

Dang it, did you see where they put the T20 torx screw on the back of the distributor? Now I need to get a stubby T20 torx screw driver. I can't believe whoever did that had an Engineering degree. I see why they did away with the clips and put T20s on, another smart move.

I'm going to need a mirror, a light, a socket set and beer to get the new cap and rotor on. I am going to give this a good try on Saturday. I can hardly wait to see where the rotor screws are hidden!!

I think I might have to look into a 1982 El Camino or somthing. Next time I'm looking at a vehicle I'm not test driving it, I'm looking under the hood to see if they have anything I can change.

 

Hmm... I didn't find it all that difficult to remove/replace my cap/rotor... Although I do have a 1/4" drive T20 bit for my small rachet...

 

You're probably starting to realize part of my problem---lack of tools! I might need to look into a T20 drive bit, too. I gave up on the #3 plug, but feel pretty good about getting this done. I'll probably do the cap and rotor one day. See if that fixes the rough idle. Then clean the IAC the following day or so.

On the positive side, I'm getting over 17 mpg around town. Now some of my driving is on four lane streets with 50MPH limits, but it also includes stoplights and road traffic, too. I drive about 7 miles to work. My wife only gets about 13.5 mpg.

 

Pop for a complete set of torx screw drivers. GM uses them all over the place.

No Bud, dang now how am I going to get rid of this crappy beer?
j/k. I don't have any bud in the house. I cannot stand the stuff.
I am a Wisconsin guy at heart. I like my MGD and Linenkugles.

There should be two torx bits holding the cap in place. Much better design then the old L hook thingy they used to use.

 

Hanr3, there still is hope for that beer. And I'm a Miller man myself (even though I live in the land of Bud).

Actually, I think I am about a 2" body lift from getting to it real easy. However my 6", or maybe 4" T20 driver won't get to the back torx head due to the firewall. A "dentist type" mirror so I can see the head of the screw and I'm in business. Of course with my bi-focals it may be more than a mirror problem.

I'm going to start my assault tonight, really it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes if I can get to the back screw. The new distributor cap is even marked with the plug wire numbers! I did think for a minute that HEET in the gas tank was going to improve the idle, but.......

 

bifocals????

You mean there is another old fart on this site?

 

LOL. Laser Eye Surgery man!!! I did it and now I'm 20-20 R&L up from 20-395 R & 20-430 L!!! Best $2k I've ever spent!

 

I just got done replaceing the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, its fairly tight fit were they put it, if you dont have a T20 torx then u can use i belive it was a 3/32 or 7/64 allan key, works just as well. the number 3 plug was difficult, if you turn the wheel to were the steering shaft is at a better side ( it is kind of like an oval shaft) it is much easyer

oh and you all make me feal young, im only 16

 

And it is me! That is the good news and nothing too new either.

I got ready to replace the rotor and distributor cap with a very nice rachet, socket and electrical tape. I followed the spark plug wires from the cap down to just to make sure. While doing this I found that one wire wasn't even on the plug. Put that wire on the plug and the rough idle went away.

I don't always make follow up posts where I turn out to be the idiot, but thought I owed to you guys. Due to my excitement I left well enough alone and did not change the rotor and distributor cap. I'm going to buy a torx socket set and then I'll do it. There isn't any hurry right now.

Once again I am the class dunce.