1995 4.3l V6 Vortec SPUTTERING/MISFIRE on acceleration
#51
harbor freight puts there pressure tester on sale for 19.99 and you get to keep it. Not sure about the blaser but some pressure regulators are just a spring and diaphram that is really easy to change and they do get old and stop holding pressure.
#52
You should try to replace the temperature sensor on the intake it will clear it up for you. What's going on is it's not working right to tell the engine it's warmed up and to cut the automatic choke off and it's getting too much gas at all times because of that. I have had to fix a bunch of blazers and Chevy trucks doing that it's so crazy something so ez could cause such a pain to figure out
#53
My story
I have 98 Blazer LS 4 door with push button 4WD, which works great,
Yes, Started great, idled great, but after five minutes would sputter, with no power over 1200 rpm and die!
I replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, both O2 sensors, Camshaft Position Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor, MAP Sensor, TP Sensor, Idle Air Control Solenoid, Coil, Checked all wires for chafing, snugged every manifold, throttle body bolt and sprayed for leaks, Silicone Dielectric all connections Fuel Pressure was 55 +/- 4 psi . throughout rpm range,
then changed the freaking Air Intake Temperature Sensor, the cheapest part and easiest to replace, of the whole process, and shazam, VrooooMMM , had to play with idle throttle adjustment screw and throttle up through the rpm range for computer to learn new idle set point but seems to be working. Will keep you posted!
resqrobvt
Yes, Started great, idled great, but after five minutes would sputter, with no power over 1200 rpm and die!
I replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, both O2 sensors, Camshaft Position Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor, MAP Sensor, TP Sensor, Idle Air Control Solenoid, Coil, Checked all wires for chafing, snugged every manifold, throttle body bolt and sprayed for leaks, Silicone Dielectric all connections Fuel Pressure was 55 +/- 4 psi . throughout rpm range,
then changed the freaking Air Intake Temperature Sensor, the cheapest part and easiest to replace, of the whole process, and shazam, VrooooMMM , had to play with idle throttle adjustment screw and throttle up through the rpm range for computer to learn new idle set point but seems to be working. Will keep you posted!
resqrobvt
#54
nope didn't work, Vacuum leak, check your hoses and make sure the brake booster isn't leaking air. The long term/short term fuel trims will tell the story with correction at idle that goes away at 2-3k revs. Still glad I changed every sensor!! except for the time and money when it was just two dollars in hose and RTV silicone sealer!!
good luck!!
good luck!!
#55
Acutally a rotted Brake booster. Right on top next to firewall. traced by closing off hose connection and viola! fuel trims went right to 0%. I then removed hose from booster and blew in with a hose and breath, and got a face full of rust scale!! Minimal expanding spray foam and it is holding great so far!!. No need yet to replace the brake booster.
Still now when I go to throttle it the short term fuel trim hits 50% and long tern fuel trim stays at 0%??? WTF
Resqrobvt
Still now when I go to throttle it the short term fuel trim hits 50% and long tern fuel trim stays at 0%??? WTF
Resqrobvt
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