The temp sensor is mounted to the side of the valvebody and is only held in place with a small clip. It's at the very end of the transmission wire harness. You'll see it when you drop the pan. I do not know how you would test it exactly so you'll have to do some research as far as that goes. Might want to test it from the PCM so you know what sort of reading it is seeing.

 

Yeah good idea. I went to O'Reilly's and checked out the cost. Anyone else looking to do this can expect to spend $30-40 per sensor. 3 total, so about $110 plus transmission fluid. Pretty cheap fix to add good longevity to the transmission.

 

Here's a copy and paste from my 4L60E Technician Guide.
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE (TFT) SENSOR
The temperature sensor is a negative temperature coefficient thermistor (temperature sensitive resistor) that provides information to the PCM regarding transmission fluid
temperature. The temperature sensor is a part of the transmission fluid pressure (TFP) manual valve position switch assembly which is attached to the control valve body and
submersed in fluid in the transmission bottom pan. The internal electrical resistance of the sensor varies in relation to the operating temperature of the transmission fluid (see chart). The PCM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the temperature sensor and measures the voltage drop in the circuit. A lower fluid temperature creates a higher resistance in the temperature sensor, thereby measuring a higher voltage signal.
The PCM measures this voltage as another input to help control TCC apply and line pressure. The PCM inhibits TCC apply until transmission fluid temperature reaches
approximately 29C (84F). Also, when fluid temperatures exceed 135C (275F), the PCM commands TCC apply at all times in Fourth gear, as opposed to having a scheduled apply. Applying the TCC reduces fluid temperatures created
by the fluid coupling in the converter.

 

I call bollocks!

"Problem: No movement in any gear
Symptoms: Pump failure, or total loss of fluid. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the Transmission is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.
Possible repair: Remove & replace or rebuild, or refill pan and find the leak."

This is my issue, but I have no leak, and the fluid level goes down like it should when engine is running...

 

There, I fixed it for you. The pump can be good yet there is a large enough leak internal to the valve body to prevent clutches from applying. Then again, these are electrically controlled so you should also check the transmission fuse and the shift solonoids.

 

Kajida, I'm not sure where your coming from. This thread is about stuff that TFZbird has learned. It is an informational thread. Forums are a great help, but part of the problem is communication on both parties. Forums are easily gotten off track as well. People identify with other comments and the thread gets hijacked, because we post to that person and try to come back to the original post. Due to technicalities in information, this thread itself has been all over the chart. Therefore has been very hard to follow. I live in a very technical world of transmissions. I believe no one here is trying to give out bad information, misunderstood maybe. But a misunderstanding can be because of too little information was given on the frustrated car owner’s end. Paint enough of a word picture for us to be on the same page as or as up-to-date as you would like us to be. Enough of the rant… we would love to help, maybe you should and I suggest that if you have a problem you start a new thread. That way we will be focused on your issue.

 

No move no engagement is covered in a post made today.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/engine...-issues-88370/

 

Thanks, unfortunately I've learned all this by trial and error. Just grabbed a basic Haynes repair manual and started tearing stuff apart. Thanks for your help not only for me but others on here.

 

ok so I am in need of help, I shift into drive and then it goes into first just fine, it then drives fine as well and shifts, after a 10-15 seconds i lose all power and it will not engage any more, some times it lasts longer some times 10 seconds. After I turn off the engine and shift from park into drive it then engages again but i must turn off the engine and then it just loses power again. I just dropped the pan and the fluid was clean and no chunks just normal silt. Anything would help thanks.. I'm at a loss.
Cheers!

 

This is most likely your fuel pump. Go to O'Reilly's and borrow one. Once connected, start the engine. Fuel pressure should reach 60 psi. The injectors do not operate, at least not reliably, under 55 psi. This fix is a new pump. If you find the fuel pressure is good, turn off the engine. Pressure should stay above 50 psi for 10 minutes. If not, the fix is either a new pressure regulator or the injectors need to be serviced/replaced.