Well everything is reassembled now and no change in behavior. So far we have changed the vss, both shift solenoids and the 3-2 solenoid. Still no speedo and won't shift out of first. Manually shift to second and first but once I manually shift to third it still goes back to first. Running out of patience money and solutions haha any help is still greatly appreciated

 

Bottom line is; if you can't get a VSS signal to the ECM, your trans will never shift. Swapping transmissions won't help because its sounds not to be transmission related. That would be a lot of work for nothing. Check your VSS with a OHM meter for continuity. If you have access to a scan tool see if you have a signal or reading on the tool for MPH. I have been wrong before soo.

Yes the 1-2 shift valve is a spring loaded valve. Solenoid "A" is behind this valve. The 2-3 shift valve is not. Solenoid "B" is behind this valve. This is the way all 4L60E's are built.

I started reading this from the beginning to get some info, Man this post took a lot of turns and new questions asked. Thought we were supposed to or should start a new post for each different rig/person or new person/question... that way we don't take away from the original Author. Just my .03 cents.
Tranzman

 

I first learned about the VSS signal and shifting when a friend tied into the VSS signal to the PCM so he could add a speedometer to a car he was building. Car drove fine without the speedometer and then wouldn't shift once he got it installed. Figured out the PCM has a speedometer output signal. So Tranzman is correct and you need to figure out what is pulling down your VSS signal. So you'll need to check everything between the PCM and the VSS. I believe you should have +5V at one side of the VSS and then there will be a pulsed output from that. Not 100% but I have not had any issues that require me to research it completely.

Tranzman I had intended for what you are saying but it never stays that way. I'm on anther forum that can start out technical and informative then turn to 18 pages of weekend partying. It doesn't bother me much anymore.

 

TFZBird is also correct with the 5v reference, output sensor is a pulse generator for the ECM to send a speedo signal to your dash. carefully look at all the mods you have done. it's possible it has been a self inflicted but not intentional problem.
Also TFZBird, thanks for the LMFAO moment on your reply to my posting comment. it started my day off well.

"Don't sweat the small stuff... if it's not death or taxes, it's all small stuff" Florence L

Tranzman

 

JCourt 2195
Heres a copy directly from my 4L60E tech guide. (Factory GM Training) I have also attached an ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association) article on diagnosing the GM drac module. Maybe these will help.

• EDIT Maybe they won't... after doing some research on this today, the 96 and up vehicles (ECM under hood) the drac is part of the ECM or contained inside. so you may have damaged your computer/ECM. Sorry if you read this and i mislead you... but the principles are the same. I do hope this helps.

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS)
The vehicle speed sensor is a magnetic inductive pickup that relays information relative to vehicle speed to the PCM. In two wheel drive (2WD) applications, the VSS is located on the transmission extension housing (31), opposite the speed sensor rotor. The speed sensor rotor is attached to the
transmission output shaft and rotates with the output shaft at transmission output speed. The speed sensor rotor has 40 serrations, or teeth, cut into it’s outside diameter. The VSS consists of a permanent magnet surrounded by a coil of wire. As the output shaft and speed sensor rotor rotate, an alternating current (AC) is induced in the coil of wire from the teeth on the rotor passing by the magnetic pickup on the VSS. Whenever the vehicle is moving, the VSS produces an AC voltage proportional to vehicle speed.
This AC signal is sent to the digital ratio adaptor converter (DRAC) where it is converted to a direct current (DC) square wave form. The DC signal is then sent to the PCM and interpreted as vehicle speed. As vehicle speed increases and more rotor teeth pass by the magnetic pickup on the VSS in
a given time frame, the frequency of the DC signal sent to the PCM increases. The PCM interprets this increase in frequency as an increase in vehicle speed.
Note: On four wheel drive (4WD) applications the VSS is
located on the transfer case.

 

I have a 00`Blazer 2WD,2Door,Ls.OE Tranny went out at 61K just rollen 5mph thru a field.Replaced w/t a used 1 but they said it came from a s10 zr2 p/u. 4K miles later the rearend dropped,The left bearing went and the chunk dropped,So got a used rearend from same salvage yard and i asked for and recieved the rearend that matched the tranny.My origanal was sluggish until 3rd gear or so but the replacement tranny took off like every s10 i`ve ever owend so figured thats what made the diff drop.I`m at 194K now and besides tires,brake pads,batterys n drv door window motors,everything is origanal but that tranny and rearend.
bought it w/t only 4,387 miles on it so i`m origanal owner.Always change filter and fluid every 25-30K miles,Diff/Rearend oil every 15-20K.Around 145-150K i found metal in my rearend and saw the ring n pinion werent mashing right and chewed a lil off the teeth even though i bought the whole rearend complete and slapped it in,never messed with the carrier or anything,Tranny has always ran great n clean every change.
Around 170K started getting a real light clunk goin into revearse then 10K later goin out and into drive,Fig`d it was the rearend gears since that were it felt like and i knew i lost some metel back there.Well now since 185K it started slamming into drive from revearse if i backed up and hit the gas after moven into drive so i just backed up,went to drive,gave it a slight push of pedal and it just rolls into drive without the hard engagement,but last week till now i`ve backed out of mygarage 4 times and after i go to drive and give it a light pedal you feel a lil engagement but then it just rev`s all the way to the corner of my street(4houss down to main road) So i rev it some and 1nce it engaged other 3 times i pulled out and it finally slammed into gear. once in forward drive it shifts smooth and great and huals a$$ even rev`d to 5K rpm hitting the interstate it shifts great.
I always let my rides warm up for 5 mins or atleast until they creep past 100 degrees in temp before doin anything.But noticed that the 3 realy bad times going from rev to drive was when i didnt wait for the temp gage to hit 100 and start moven up.But like i stated for while now everytime i park,come back,back up shift to drive and go you`ll feel a lil clunk from the rearend,even a lil clunk goin into rev.But i know thats the worn down gears in the diff.
1 Other thing though is that ever since i put this tranny in at 64K and rearend in at 67-68K my speedometer hasnt worked rite,45mph is 52 on the dash,70mph is 88 on the dash,never go past 80 but at 80 i`m rite at the point of the govener cutting my engine off at 98mph dash reading(I know cuase my gps hits 82mph,dash reads 98,engine goes BY-BYe)Now its slipping from rev to drive what ya`ll think it is?
i am almost 60K since last fluid n filter change,1st time ever,just been broke n busy,gonna change it tomorrow finally,just wondering what ya`ll think?Also they claimed tranny had 42K on it and rearend had 45K,As a garage mechanic since i was 5 years old i always take 40K as 80K plus from them guys at the salvage yards,so i have put 130K plus on both,plus whatever they had on them.
Any ideas what to check while pan is off let me know,thanks.
After this thread i will check the the valve n solenoids etc,Was just thinking it might be my T.Converter/TCC but after this thread thinking it is my fluid n filter wore out or the shift valves from the lil bit of clunking cuased by the rearend all these miles,or the spedo being off ever since i put the rearend in whitch was supose to be the matching one for the tranny they sold me,Guess it supose to be 13 x 32/30 spline what it came with,and the zr2 rearend and tranny they sold me is 14 x 27 or 28 spline?
LOVE this SITE,Best info on the web for me the past 6-8 years.Thanks ya`ll.

 

Awesome thread you guys. 1 thing that should be made clear though is:FILLEN AND CHECKING YOUR A/T FLUID SHOULD BE DONE AT OPERATING TEMP(180-192f.)WHILE RUNNING W/T PARKING BREAK ON,BLOCKS OR BOARDS CHUCKING WHEELS RUNNING IN NEUTRAL.ONLY CORRECT WAY TO CHECK FLUID.IF YOU ONLY DO A FILTER AND PAN DROP FLUID CHANGE AND YOU LEAVE IT ON THE GROUND OR JACK IT UP LEVEL,YOU ONLY NEED TO PUT 4 1/2 QUARTS BACK IN.THEN RUN IT AT OPERATING TEMP IN O/D IS FINE UP YOUR BLOCK AND BACK,1/4 MILE OR SO,THEN CHECK IT.IF YOUR JACKED UP AND THE TRANNY N MOTOR ARE LEANING BACKWARDS THEN YOUR GONNA GET HALF THE TCC FLUID OUT AS WELL IF JACKED UP,PAN OFF AND LEFT SITTING LIKE THAT FOR OVER AN HOUR OR MORE.But always start with 4 1/2 quarts,Shift to rev,then 1,2,3,OD,Back to rev,then to park once at operating temp.Then go back to rev,you feel it go into gear,then go to OD,feel it go into gear?Then back out and drive it then come back and check it.If you dont feel it go into gear right away then go thru all the gears slowly until you do.Some times old a$$ sh^% you need to give it a lil rev in nuetral and other times in every gear to get the pumps or whatever going if it was jacked up at very steep angle or left draining like that for aday or more.
Hope this clears up the filling method,now my turn to post my issue.

 

This is in response to "Problem: No Torque Converter Control (TCC) lockup
Symptoms: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), Torque Converter Control (TCC) solenoid failed (easy fix in the pan), Torque Converter Control (TCC) clutch worn out
Possible repair: Must remove Transmission and replace TC"

I believe I currently have this problem. Very intermittent and when the TC isn't locking the cruise control does not work. In fact, that's how I discovered the problem. Normal highway driving and the cruise control turned off and would not continue to work. Then I noticed the TC not locking because of rpms fluctuating with gas pedal pressure. Already ruled out brake switch adjusting. So that's my question. Would the cruise control stop working.

Also, is this what I need to replace it? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1193612&cc=1362877

 

That looks like the TCC valve. The TCC does not lockup until the transmission fluid reaches 80* or something like that. So there is the possibility that the fluid temp sensor is not reading correctly and would not allow TCC lockup. Just another thing to check if it will read on a scanner.
Is your original problem that cruise control does not work or that the converter is not locking?

 

Well sort of. The cruise control not working is what tipped me off to the problem. But the only time it doesn't work is when the TC isn't locking. The TC temp sensor makes sense. Is that easy to get to? I can take the transmission pan off but that's as far as I go on transmissions. And if it's cheap enough, I'll just replace both. I plan on doing the shifting solenoids while I'm in there, also.