71 K 5 Blazer
#3
I can't, it belonged to my late hunting partner. I bought it from his son after he passed I have been the only one driving it for last 18 years he had a bad knee so I drove it. its part of our family. PS it has only @30,000 miles on it only went hunting an back to town. I need to put an auto transmission in it or a hyd. auct. on clutch got bad arthritis in left foot it hurts to drive it. Has any one done this ?
#4
I can't, it belonged to my late hunting partner. I bought it from his son after he passed I have been the only one driving it for last 18 years he had a bad knee so I drove it. its part of our family. PS it has only @30,000 miles on it only went hunting an back to town. I need to put an auto transmission in it or a hyd. auct. on clutch got bad arthritis in left foot it hurts to drive it. Has any one done this ?
That`s unbelievable no wonder you don`t and can`t get rid of her.Once you get rid of her..that`s it you won`t find another like her.I would have an (Antique) license plate put on her.
#6
Does it have a 3-speed or 4-speed manual transmission in it now? Regardless, hydraulic clutch retrofit kits should be available for whichever one you have as I believe that the bell housing is the same for any of the available manual transmissions at the time. A quick Google search for "SM465 hydraulic retrofit" should come up with the relevant information. Most of the retrofit kits include a new clutch pedal with attached clutch master cylinder along with a slave cylinder, mounting bracket, and plunger to mate up with the factory clutch arm attached to the bell housing. THIS POST on 67-72chevytrucks.com goes through the very swap you are investigating.
To go to an automatic would require the transmission and transfer case at a minimum for the big parts and may extend to different driveshafts (front & rear) as well depending on what transmission & transfer case you decided on. For example, the 700R4 is longer than the TH350 that would have been an optional transmission in your year. The NP208/241 transfer cases would have different flange configurations than your current transfer case, requiring different driveshafts.
As far as transfer cases go, you will need one from a TH350 or 700R4 Chevy/GMC fullsize truck ('86 & older) or Blazer/Suburban ('91 & older). That would assure that they had the passenger side drop for the front output and the proper spline count to match up with the TH350/700R4 transmission output shaft.
Beyond that, for an automatic transmission swap, you would need a kick-down cable (TH350) or throttle-valve cable (700R4) and the appropriate hook-up to your carb linkage.
I mention all of these things so that you know the size of the job when it comes to changing over to an automatic. Going to an automatic is definitely more involved than an hydraulic clutch retrofit. If a hydraulic clutch would allow you to actuate the clutch properly without discomfort, it would be by far the easiest and lowest cost modification.
To go to an automatic would require the transmission and transfer case at a minimum for the big parts and may extend to different driveshafts (front & rear) as well depending on what transmission & transfer case you decided on. For example, the 700R4 is longer than the TH350 that would have been an optional transmission in your year. The NP208/241 transfer cases would have different flange configurations than your current transfer case, requiring different driveshafts.
As far as transfer cases go, you will need one from a TH350 or 700R4 Chevy/GMC fullsize truck ('86 & older) or Blazer/Suburban ('91 & older). That would assure that they had the passenger side drop for the front output and the proper spline count to match up with the TH350/700R4 transmission output shaft.
Beyond that, for an automatic transmission swap, you would need a kick-down cable (TH350) or throttle-valve cable (700R4) and the appropriate hook-up to your carb linkage.
I mention all of these things so that you know the size of the job when it comes to changing over to an automatic. Going to an automatic is definitely more involved than an hydraulic clutch retrofit. If a hydraulic clutch would allow you to actuate the clutch properly without discomfort, it would be by far the easiest and lowest cost modification.