Well I tell you what I am really starting to hate this Blazer! After spending $850 at the shop they tell me my engine is no good. So back on the trailer and off to another shop to have an engine put in.

So this morning the shop went out and started the truck and drove it into their shop and it ran for 15 min. no problem. When I went to pick it up it was so tight it would barely turn over. But this morning it started and ran for 15 min. The mechanic commenced to pulling the engine. On the ground he started transferring over the intake and other stuff. He noticed that the spider was broken to the number five cylinder. It can only get better from here. So now it needs more money thrown at it. Which leads me to my first question.

1) Can I get away with a used spider or should I buy it new?

2) If new should I not go cheep and buy a AC Delco?

3) what is this bolt kit that I saw in one of the threads?

4) is there anything else I should have him replace while the engine is on the floor?

I sure would like to get out of this not beat up so bad. I have been on this sight for about 2 weeks now ever since I bought this nightmare and you all have helped me out allot. Now I am hooked on this sight and I look at it and read allot of threads 4 to 5 times a day. I look forward to your responses. Thank you

 

From reading you probably want to get a new one since it seems to be a common theme around here. I don't know if I have any problems with mine, but I'm of the opinion that if it's not broke or has reason for suspision don't fix it. Since you are wanting to get out of this situation without so much wallet abuse you could probably try to locate one off a low mileage vehicle.

I'd check the price differences and go with what you prefer. I don't think I've seen anything like tune-up parts where it seems to work better with Delco parts.

The only bolt kits you should need for an engine are head bolts. They are the only bolts that are required to be replace during a rebuild.

While it's out you might as well replace all gaskets, bearings, check crank/pistons for wear, etc. A half hour to an hour with a mic. would tell you if low oil pressure in your future(if you plan to keep your drama-queen).

However if you've spent that much and don't really have anything to show for it you may just want to get it up and running. If you were doing the work yourself I would do everything above and it wouldn't cost you $1k. However at a shop, things can "break" real easy and costs can skyrocket. I'm not saying it wasn't broke in the first place though.

 

Some people seem able to use used parts and get by with it, yet when I try it, it never works out good for me. I hear there are rebuilt ones, I didn't try that, some seem to have used them with great success.

When I replace my nut kit, I used Deloc, when I replace my spider later on I used Delco.

 

I have anouther question Jerry? What is this nut kit you talk about?

I plan on keeping this rig and driving the wheels off of it and willing it to my son which is 14 rite now.

So I suppose I shouldn't put used parts in it but at this point I think it's too late. I will probly have to do the job over again and I am going to replace the fuel pump then if it makes it.

So how many miles can I expect to get out of this rig before it is wore out again? I usually in fact every time just rebuild the engine when stuff goes wrong But I really didn't want to sink $2500 ( I go all out when I rebuild thats why so much) in a $2000 rig. I am still a little leery about the trans. I should have rebuilt that too. I know that I could after reading all the forms.

I am sorry for bugging the Form so much but who knows best about these rigs then owners.

 

you'll want the updated spider assembly. i think its around $200

 

Your photo didn't come through.

Where do I get it the update injectors?

Is it automatically the updated one when I buy it new?


TZFBIRD had a great reply thank you. I saw the fuel return lines but they don't come up in the 96 section. The engine is a 95 and the truck is a 96 but we are transferring over the intake and all the injection stuff.

 

The fuel pump should be in the gas tank, a real pain to replace but doable in the yard if that's the only place you have to work on it.

When I had the engine replaced in my 95 a few years ago I was told the timing cover could not be reused (plastic) so they charged for a new one. They told me the lines to the oil cooler were leaking and should be replaced, more bucks. The spider was reported to be bad as well, more bucks. A $2800 engine replacement turned into $4050. Never again. Next time it gets a carb.d V8. Though I do think it would also run great with a TPI 305.

I believe there are different heads on different 4.3's. The engine that was installed in my Blazer had constant exhaust gas leak issues. First one side, then the other. Always the front cylinder. The bolts just did not line up quite right when reinstalling them. I got to noticing that the gaskets that were blowing out were barely supported by the manifold. In over words, the holes in the manifold (front and rear) did not line up with the holes in the heads, leaving only a tiny amount of the gasket clamped between the exhaust manifold and the head. I finally fixed it by bolting down the front to manifold bolts first, then moving to the rear rather than tightening the center and working to the front and back as stated in the manual.

Good luck with yours. The S10's just have too much stuff jammed into a small space to suit me. When the two I have finally give up there won't be another one. Well, maybe. I've also wondered about putting a 4.8 V8, fuel injection system, computer, 5 speed and all out of a silverado 1500 in one of my S10 Blazers. That ought to run pretty good, too.

 

What yeas motor did you change to? I am going to a 95 and the shop said it had TPI and mine has TBI. I never thought about the heads being different. That would be my luck.

Ya your rite for the money I have invested in the damn thing I could have bought a fresh 5.7 and converted it over. I think I would have kept the injection.

All though it would be so easy to slap a carberated engine in it and screw the computers all together. I did this in 90 to a Bronco2 before they had all the kits. It was a real bear but it went fine and it would pull the wheels off the ground. I rolled it and haven't had a Ford since.

 

This is the nut kit for a 92 S10 with the 4.3 W engine.

How many miles, I've heard of many going over 200,000, of course much depends on how you drive and take care of it.

Mine had 160,000 + on it and uses very little oil.

 

Well was going to pick it up from the shop that put the motor in it today. Finally I thought but....noooo. He called me and said he took it for one finial test drive and it over heated. He said he was going to fix it today. I don't know what he checked but he swapped out the heads from my old engine to the new one in the truck now. Again at 2 he said he was just finishing up and he would call me. That didn't happen.

He said it has water, He said he checked compression and it checked out good, He was going to chainge the thermostate but I would have done that befor I chainged the heads. I didn't get if there was water in ther oil or steam coming out the exhaust but a compression check should have found that rite?

I am completly lost. I am used to doing the work myself. But I figured it isn't rocket science so for the $400 he was/is charging me I would let someone else do it. I guess thats my bad.

What should I ask him tomorrow? Why did it over heat? He checked the raditor and said it checked out good. It has a new water pump belts and hoses. So if I could pick your braines again that would be greatly apresheated.