97 4 wheel drive engine removal
#1
97 4 wheel drive engine removal
OK got another motor for wifes 97. I have ALL the bolts removed from engine to trans. torque converter is unbolted as well. Dizzzy is out. Motor mount bolts are out. Now whats left????? Remove the 4 bolts from diff assembly and let hang..... Pull with engine puller????????? Thanks for HELP!!!!!!!!!
#3
Are you sure you removed all of the trans to engine bolts? 1 is typically impossible to get out without cutting a hole behind accel pedal or dropping the back of the trans/transfer case down or raising the body. I pulled carpet away and cut a 2" flap in the floor with a dremel - then bent it back into place when done. There are 6 bolts into the engine + a few more going into the oil pan.
Ground straps and fuel line clamp on the rear of the heads - very difficult. Don't bend the fuel lines. Pitch the fuel line clamp and then when going back in you reattach ground straps before engine is up against the trans (firewall).
Exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe bolts? Oil cooler lines from remote oil filter adapter? Trans cooler line clamp on the oil pan? Lower wiring? Oil sending unit? Knock sensor connector? AC compressor back and laid out of the way. PS Pump off and tied out of the way against steering gear with long zip tie. AIR manifold removed. Main wiring harness disconnected at the fuse/relay center and laid out of the way.
Steering shaft loose from the steering box to clear EGR tube bump on driver's side exhaust manifold. You will be glad that you did.
If you remove the right (passenger) exhaust manifold from the engine you don't have to drop the front diff down in order to pull engine far enough forward for manifold to clear evaporator case. Engine will squeak out with pan up against the front axle housing - but support the transmission on a floor jack. Furthermore, removing the passenger exhaust manifold first gives you wonderful access to get the starter out and back in, as well as get a wrench on the back side of the motor mount bolt.
What year engine did you get? There are concerns with metric vs non-metric bolt holes and the knock sensor mounting.
Ground straps and fuel line clamp on the rear of the heads - very difficult. Don't bend the fuel lines. Pitch the fuel line clamp and then when going back in you reattach ground straps before engine is up against the trans (firewall).
Exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe bolts? Oil cooler lines from remote oil filter adapter? Trans cooler line clamp on the oil pan? Lower wiring? Oil sending unit? Knock sensor connector? AC compressor back and laid out of the way. PS Pump off and tied out of the way against steering gear with long zip tie. AIR manifold removed. Main wiring harness disconnected at the fuse/relay center and laid out of the way.
Steering shaft loose from the steering box to clear EGR tube bump on driver's side exhaust manifold. You will be glad that you did.
If you remove the right (passenger) exhaust manifold from the engine you don't have to drop the front diff down in order to pull engine far enough forward for manifold to clear evaporator case. Engine will squeak out with pan up against the front axle housing - but support the transmission on a floor jack. Furthermore, removing the passenger exhaust manifold first gives you wonderful access to get the starter out and back in, as well as get a wrench on the back side of the motor mount bolt.
What year engine did you get? There are concerns with metric vs non-metric bolt holes and the knock sensor mounting.
Last edited by LesMyer; 10-08-2015 at 11:35 AM.
#5
Great! How did you do the one bolt ahead of the accellerator pedal?
#6
Is that the 2 bolts on top???? Or 2 on each side bolts???? Tops I stood inside engine compartment and broke loose with reverse gear wrench then helped guide long extension with short swivel socket. The 2 each side got from underneath. Upper drivers side I removed wheel and broke loose from wheel well
Last edited by Red Sled; 10-10-2015 at 11:34 AM.
#8
Is that the 2 bolts on top???? Or 2 on each side bolts???? Tops I stood inside engine compartment and broke loose with reverse gear wrench then helped guide long extension with short swivel socket. The 2 each side got from underneath. Upper drivers side I removed wheel and broke loose from wheel well
#9
I suppose you could call the one I am talking about the "upper side bolt on the driver's side". Usually not enough room between the trans and firewall to get it out of it's bolt hole. Maybe 1997 is different. I'm talking about 2001, but I thought they were the same. Hey whatever worked for you - it worked! Congrats!
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