I did what you said Tinted and i cant hear a damn thing, i even got someone to hit the buttoms and put my ear right up to the motor. So im pretty sure it could be the encoder motor not working. Ya Mark_D I thought it was a weird coincidence that when my 4 wheel drive started acting up my digital gauges did to. let me know if you find those diagrams

 

well there you go bud. if the TCCM is clicking but nothing happens at the encoder motor I think you probably should replace it. they are like $120 bux on ebay, or so.

there is a great HOW TO on the zr2usa forum but the forum seems to be down right now. it's fairly easy to do, just remove the front shaft. I heard of some guys having problems getting the shaft off the fly wheel but mine came right out.

 

1998 NV233 selectable transfer case: If the lights are blinking, it's telling you a code is stored. There are 4 different codes: to retrieve them, ground pin #13 in the data link connector, (bottom connector in the image below):




Turn the ignition to the run position. Count the blinks and post your results.

 

I did what you said captain put it in start position and all 3 lights went on for a sec then all of them went out. Then when i went to try it again the lights wouldnt go on. Thanks

 

With a test light or voltmeter, check both terminals of the following fuses:

In the I/P fuse panel, (left side of dash):
FUSE #15 4WD 10a fuse must show battery voltage with ignition in RUN position.
FUSE #8 CTSY LP 10a fuse must show battery voltage at all times.

In the underhood fuse panel:
ATC FUSE 20a must show battery voltage at all times.
BTSI FUSE 10a must show battery voltage in PARK and NEUTRAL with ignition in RUN position.
CRANK FUSE 10a must show battery voltage in START position.

Post the results of each test.

 

results with a voltage meter:

4wd fuse= no voltage with the fuse in and i got 14 volts at the terminals
CTSY LP= .009 of a volt with the fuse in and 14 volts at the terminals
ATC= nothing with the fuse in and got .002 of a volt at the terminals
BTSI= .002 of a volt with the fuse in and 14 volts at the terminals
crank fuse i got nothing all around

 

Just to make sure..... leave the fuse in the fuse panel when testing. Test both terminals on the top of each fuse and make sure the ignition switch is in the positions noted for each fuse in post #15 while testing.

 

Ya i did exactly what you said and those were the results i got. So im guessing theres something not giving me the voltage i need to my fuses?

 

Help me out here.... no voltage on either terminal on the top of the fuse? What terminals did you read 14 volts?

 

ya there was no voltage on the top of the fuse then i took the fuse out and check those 2 points out for voltage and got the 14v. So i ended up checking all the tops of the fuses you listed and took the fuses out and checked the 2 terminal points where the fuses plug into as well.