I seriously need some help. My truck is driving me insane.
When hooked up to a computer the codes that come up say that both oxygen sensors and shift solenoid B are bad. My emergency brake, airbag and CEL lights are all lit up.
When the car is first turned on it will start out in 1st gear. It shifts into 2nd with no problems but struggles to get into 3rd. It will not hit 4th gear at all. After the initial shift into 2nd it will not shift down into 1st unless it is shut off. I also have to manually shift it back and forth between 2nd and 3rd.
Crazy thing is, when my puppy chewed off the wires running to the electronic speedometer sensor the truck shifted beautifully between 1st and 2nd but wouldn't hit 3rd.
I talked to someone at a transmission shop and he knew exactly what was wrong with my truck. He refused to tell me what it was and wants $400 to fix it. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them.

 

What were the exact codes retrieved, a "solenoid code" can be electrical or performance. Electrical means a wire is broken/shorted or the solenoid coil is bad, and is not very expensive to fix except for finding the broken/shorted wire. A performance code, OTOH, means the solenoid is working properly electrically, but the gear change didn't happen. Could still be the solenoid has mechanically failed, or the valves and clutches/bands that the solenoid engages are bad. Normally, when a solenoid goes bad 2 gears are missing, if B failed off you should start out in second gear, essentially you get 2-2-3-3 instead of 1-2-3-4. If it failed on, then it will shift 1-2-2-1. If it is a performance code and is deeper than the solenoid, it could be acting differently.

Define "struggles to get into 3rd gear". With the oxy sensor codes the engine may be running bad and has no power, which means you need more pedal to get it going fast enough to shift and the computer will raise the shift point speed because of the larger throttle opening. Accelerate to 35 and let off the gas, does it shift into third normally? How fast were you going when 4th didn't engage? These transmissions are computer controlled, so lots of things can inhibit 4th gear. Without a scantool attached watching the shift commands, you don't know if the computer even commands 4th gear.

 

I think it was a P0758 code but im not 100% sure at this point. The truck has been parked for awhile and I am just recently trying to get it back up and running. Im currently working on a no start problem with it.
I know the problem isnt in the transmission since I have replaced it and still get the same code. I have traced back all the wires going to the tranny and none of them are broken or grounded out that I can see.
The only electrical issue that I found in the truck was the crankshaft postition sensor signal wire was only connected by a single strand of wire. I cut out the old plug and replaced 18in of wire running to it because they were brittle and the coating was coming off.
I just tackled the distributor cap and plugs today. I found out that the plugs were gapped over .08 and my distributor cap points and rotor button are burnt/crusty. Im not sure if that has anything to so with the tranny problem but its difficult to tell with everything wired together.

 

Just an FYI... When you replace the distributor cap, put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out. It helps reduce/eliminate corrosion. It also turns into a crusty white crystal-like substance when electricity jumps from the rotor to the cap

 

P0758 is an electrical code for the B shift solenoid. The way they work is 12 volts from the ignition switch is sent to the pink wire at terminal "E" on the trans electrical connector. The harness splits inside to send that +12V to several solenoids and then the ground side of the solenoid is switched on and off by the PCM. The PCM looks for 12V at each ground wire it switches, if it doesn't see it or the current draw is too high, the code for that circuit is thrown.

You said it shifts some, so you obviously have power. First step is to pull the connector and use an ohm meter to read the resistance between pins "E" and "B" on the trans side. An open circuit indicates a broken wire inside the trans or more likely a bad B solenoid. A resistance reading of 20-40 ohms means it is likely OK, but double check by reading between "E" and "A" for the "A" solenoid and make sure it is a similar reading. Temp and the particular meter can give out of range readings. Too low a reading means the wires shorted in the coil. Pics of both sides of the connector are below with pins labeled. You don't need a fancy meter, the $5 ones from Harbor Freight work fine for this.

Assuming everything checks out, the next step is to check the wiring between the trans and PCM. I don't have access to a diagram, but if you can find one just check for continuity between the connector at the trans and at the PCM. If that checks good and the connectors appear fine, the problem could be a cold solder joint inside the PCM, or a cracked board. If you can't find the pinout diagram, just unplug each connector and check each cavity with the other lead in the "B" terminal of the trans connector, if none show continuity you have a bad wire.

The crank sensor will definitely cause a no start, but should not affect the trans. If it is running it is working, so no trans affect.