Made a popping sound, and then no engage, nothing.

Light is still on 2 Hi, but wont go forward or backward.

Never used the other buttons, just a daily driver.

Push the 4's and I can hear movement of some actuators, but no engage to move car.

Will crawl under it to take a look tomorrow, and will keep searching for someone with a similar symptom.

Just did a check of fluid after starting engine. Now it wasnt hot, and not perfectly level. But the Dip stick was about 4 to 5 inches above the high mark.

Me thinks that maybe the pump is not pumping fluid?

 

Did the trans make a ratcheting sound and a clunk when you put it back in park after it didn't move? If it did, the trans output shaft is turning but the transfer case let go internally. If it didn't and the fluid level was normal last time you checked likely the pump did break the rotor.

 

I wanted to check the flow of fluid to the cooler at the radiator, since the fluid on the dipstick seems to remain very high, whether or not the engine is running. This vehicle seemed to have had the two lines going to the radiator (battery side), disconnected and attached to another smaller cooler in front of the radiator. I disconnected one of the rubber hoses that were placed over the old trans line coming from the trans, and started it up. Nothing coming out of the hose. I would assume that the fluid should pump whether the engine is cold or hot?, And this would mean that my pump is not pumping fluid, correct?

 

Yes, the cooler line should flow fluid anytime the engine is running. Your pump likely let go.

Bypassing the in-radiator cooler with an add on is common if the trans was overhauled or replaced and the original cooler was clogged with debris. $30 cooler versus a new rad. Some reman companies even require the bypass or rad replacement on some models due to the difficulty in getting them clean. If you replace the trans yourself the cooler will need to be flushed or replaced, otherwise debris will contaminate the rebuilt trans.