I'm replacing a blown transmission on a 96 blazer the guy I bought the tranny transfer case off says he lifted the body up a few inches by unbolting 6 bolts from the frame allowing him to pull the transmission and transfer case at once giving more access. My question is is this the best way is it worth it and we're are the bolts?

 

First I have not done this particular job on a Blazer, but I am no stranger to doing such work.

You still have to disconnect all the stuff from the transfer case right? Guess he didn't know you simply have to turn the transfer case front nose down on a blazer to get it out. Bet the transmission and transfer case together was pretty heavy! Not sure how raising the body helps as the t-case (rear) crossmember is non-removable if I remember correctly. Only thing I can think of is if he already had the engine out of a junk vehicle and didn't want to remove the tranny crossmember due to rust - just raised the body and pulled all out the front? Don't think you want to go back in that way!

Why not just disconect the t-case from tranny and move it back a few inches until the tranny disengages from the tcase and (transmission) will drop straight down (after removing crossmember). Sure you will also need to remove driveshafts, but why wrestle the transfer case all the way out and back in if you don't have to. I would think it could easily be wired back out of the way somewhere above the t-case crossmember and that would ease reinstallation. In case you are planning on putting in the different tcase too, beware of differences in tcases even in same models/year of vehicle.

I remember replacing flex plates on 1970s 4WD Chevy pickups by just replacing two trans to engine bolts with 3.5" ones, taking the mount loose at the crossmember, supporting the engine oil pan, and the prying the trans/tcase assembly back on the bolts (driveshafts intact on those vehicles). Enough room to replace the flex plate, and then pulled back together with series of smaller than 3.5" bolts. Job paid about 4.5 hours to R&R trans and transfer case - took about 1/2 hour. Not directly applicable to your vehicle, other than illustrates how easily things can be done if you don't remove more than you absolutely need to. This is why I think that raising the body to remove the trans/tcase together is ridiculous.

 

Thanks for the advice think I will leave the body the way it is…a little concerned about the transfer case the tranny and transfer case is out of a 95 and my blazer is a 96…

 

you will also need to remove the y pipe

 

Will a Tracy and t case from a 95 blazer fit into a 96

 

The only reason to lift the body would be to get at the top 2 bellhousing bolts. If you completely remove the transfer case and tip the tail of the transmission down you can access those 2 bolts with about 24" of extensions and a universal.

I had to jog my memory with some reading and it looks like 93 and 94 will interchange, 95 is a one year only and 96+ can be interchanged. For some reason I thought 93, 94 and 95 were all seperate but I guess it's only 95. Go figure.

 

To the best of my knowledge, the transmissions should be the same unless there are different electrical connectors.

Most Blazer transfer cases fit into one of these three categories:

NV231 - 2 speed manual shift transfer case.
NV233 - RPO NP1 - 2 speed electronic shift transfer case. This transfer case was offered in both the 1st gen and long into the 2nd gen life cycle. In the 2nd gens, a 3-button switch was used which had 2HI, 4HI, and 4LO buttons. Most 1st gens had a 2-button switch with 4HI and 4LO. 2HI was selected by pressing the currently selected 4wd mode switch a second time.
NV236 - RPO NP8 - 2 speed electronic shift transfer case used in the Auto4wd applications. This transfer case has a viscous clutch that allows for an AWD type application of torque to the front axle. Used in the 98+ trucks. Can be either identified by the tag on the back or by the 4-button switch on the dash.
Since you have a 1996, that eliminates the NV236/NP236 as a possibility.

So question becomes the following:

Is your original tcase manual shift or electronic shift (3 button electronic) and how does this compare to the other tcase? If they both use an encoder motor to shift within the years you describe, then they both should be either NP233 or NV233. Probably you can read the code on the tag on the transfer case, but then again maybe not!

If they are both Nx233 tcases, then compare the rear output shaft splines. Some are 27 spline and some are 32 spline. Also some have slip yokes on either front or rear. If all looks the same for the front/rear outputs of both tcases, then as far as I know they will interchange.

Why do you feel you need to change the tcase? I thought the transmission was out. Feel like i'm not getting the entire story here.

 

I don't need to change the transfer case just the tranny. I just bought a tranny tcase converter off a guy that came as a package then started reading that the 95 was a one off year and may not work and I may have just spent a bunch of money on parts I cannot use…the one in the blazer is a 3 button electric. I appreciate the help

 

2hi 4hi 4 low push button

 

I found this (below) about the tranny. Probably you should consider if this makes any difference.

In 1996, a bolt-on bell housing was phased in (along with a six-bolt tailhousing) for S-10 Trucks and S-10 Blazers and beginning in 1998 for all other applications.