Alternative P1870 fix-so-far
#23
03-26-2011, 09:38 AM
Hey glad it reached you.
I've lost a little of the terminology, so I'm not exactly sure what I did about the "boost valve" and "EPC solenoid." But below is what I know I did do, per the TransGo instructions. Maybe you'll be able to tell whether it relates to the boost valve and EPC solenoid.
Page 1: Mine was the "2nd Type," and I installed as shown.
Page 2: This I skipped entirely, as mentioned, because it required removal of that servo cover.
Page 3: I did step #1 (is this the "boost valve" you're talking about?). Re #2, I put in a new EPC screen, but left out the wire spacer (wouldn't stay in place very easily; I bent one all up the first time). Re #4, I did use a new VB separator plate; two check ***** were embedded in their worn holes.
Page 4: Did #1, but again, instead of the TransGo TCC valve+spring, I used the TeckPak valve.
Page 5: Did #1, 2, 3, 4, as instructed. Mine was "2nd Type" in #4.
Page 6: Did not do, again because it requires a code from the 2nd Piston, which I couldn't access under that servo cover. I thought about guessing which spring to put in that 1-2 accumulator bushing and valve, but then thought better of it.
So that's it. I'm very happy with the smooth but firm 1-2 shift, the 2-3 shift is fine. Not crazy about the weak 3-4 shift, but don't think any of these steps affected that.
Let me know how it goes.
I've lost a little of the terminology, so I'm not exactly sure what I did about the "boost valve" and "EPC solenoid." But below is what I know I did do, per the TransGo instructions. Maybe you'll be able to tell whether it relates to the boost valve and EPC solenoid.
Page 1: Mine was the "2nd Type," and I installed as shown.
Page 2: This I skipped entirely, as mentioned, because it required removal of that servo cover.
Page 3: I did step #1 (is this the "boost valve" you're talking about?). Re #2, I put in a new EPC screen, but left out the wire spacer (wouldn't stay in place very easily; I bent one all up the first time). Re #4, I did use a new VB separator plate; two check ***** were embedded in their worn holes.
Page 4: Did #1, but again, instead of the TransGo TCC valve+spring, I used the TeckPak valve.
Page 5: Did #1, 2, 3, 4, as instructed. Mine was "2nd Type" in #4.
Page 6: Did not do, again because it requires a code from the 2nd Piston, which I couldn't access under that servo cover. I thought about guessing which spring to put in that 1-2 accumulator bushing and valve, but then thought better of it.
So that's it. I'm very happy with the smooth but firm 1-2 shift, the 2-3 shift is fine. Not crazy about the weak 3-4 shift, but don't think any of these steps affected that.
Let me know how it goes.
If I do put this Transgo kit in(my only doubt is that I have lost engine breaking in the low gears already,maybe there is something broken in the over run drum and only hope that I can still use the truck in overdrive in the future for a long period)…. So I would deffentaly want to get into the side servo cover to add those 2 springs and the gold shim and spacer coil in there. Becaue that will correct my lite 2-3 upshift clunk and also correct my light throttle 2-1 downshift clunk….I know you were not able to do this because you could get in it. I got this picture from another member on how to use an adjustable tie strap in order to pull and move the tranny over to the drivers side a little so there is more room to acess the servo cover. I haven't tried it yet but looks like it will work.
Yes, on page 3 is the boost valve and that is what im taking about. I wanted to know if you put those 2 orange springs in there and you did…As far as EPC solenoid, I wanted to know if you changed the entire electrical motor itself. But im guessing you did not as they cost $50-$100 depending if its GM or aftermarket….
I will keep you updated as I make some more positive progress… Let me know if you remember anything else about that little nippled valve, thanks so much
Last edited by bigdaddykane93; 03-26-2011 at 10:05 AM.
#24
03-26-2011, 09:47 AM
2 hours later I'm done with the job. It's an easy fix and the tranny now shifts into the TCC at around 40mph as it should. The hard 1-2 shift is also gone and the code doesn't come up again.
I also used the opportunity to install a drain plug for convenience when the filter is going to be serviced next time.
Upper and lower valve body gaskets should be changed at this time also.
I also used the opportunity to install a drain plug for convenience when the filter is going to be serviced next time.
Upper and lower valve body gaskets should be changed at this time also.
#25
03-26-2011, 10:11 AM
2 hours later I'm done with the job. It's an easy fix and the tranny now shifts into the TCC at around 40mph as it should. The hard 1-2 shift is also gone and the code doesn't come up again.
I also used the opportunity to install a drain plug for convenience when the filter is going to be serviced next time.
Upper and lower valve body gaskets should be changed at this time also.
I also used the opportunity to install a drain plug for convenience when the filter is going to be serviced next time.
Upper and lower valve body gaskets should be changed at this time also.
#27
03-26-2011, 12:27 PM
#28
03-27-2011, 04:39 AM
The Blazer is a April 97 build date. The valve is exactly the same as in the attachement.
But someone already messed with my tranny before anyway, so I can't say if it's the original one or not. I found evidence that the valve body had been removed before, I guess one of the previous owners tried to fix the 1870 without luck.
But someone already messed with my tranny before anyway, so I can't say if it's the original one or not. I found evidence that the valve body had been removed before, I guess one of the previous owners tried to fix the 1870 without luck.
#29
03-27-2011, 02:14 PM
#30
03-27-2011, 02:30 PM
Hey, I haven’t done much because I can’t seem to find a used single sided nipple anywhere. And new GM does not sell single valves anymore, they only want to sell you the entire valve body. Just curious, sometimes you remember later on because you thought about it, so did anything come to mind if yours was the single side nipple since I last asked you?
If I do put this Transgo kit in(my only doubt is that I have lost engine breaking in the low gears already,maybe there is something broken in the over run drum and only hope that I can still use the truck in overdrive in the future for a long period)…. So I would deffentaly want to get into the side servo cover to add those 2 springs and the gold shim and spacer coil in there. Becaue that will correct my lite 2-3 upshift clunk and also correct my light throttle 2-1 downshift clunk….I know you were not able to do this because you could get in it. I got this picture from another member on how to use an adjustable tie strap in order to pull and move the tranny over to the drivers side a little so there is more room to acess the servo cover. I haven't tried it yet but looks like it will work.
Yes, on page 3 is the boost valve and that is what im taking about. I wanted to know if you put those 2 orange springs in there and you did…As far as EPC solenoid, I wanted to know if you changed the entire electrical motor itself. But im guessing you did not as they cost $50-$100 depending if its GM or aftermarket….
I will keep you updated as I make some more positive progress… Let me know if you remember anything else about that little nippled valve, thanks so much
If I do put this Transgo kit in(my only doubt is that I have lost engine breaking in the low gears already,maybe there is something broken in the over run drum and only hope that I can still use the truck in overdrive in the future for a long period)…. So I would deffentaly want to get into the side servo cover to add those 2 springs and the gold shim and spacer coil in there. Becaue that will correct my lite 2-3 upshift clunk and also correct my light throttle 2-1 downshift clunk….I know you were not able to do this because you could get in it. I got this picture from another member on how to use an adjustable tie strap in order to pull and move the tranny over to the drivers side a little so there is more room to acess the servo cover. I haven't tried it yet but looks like it will work.
Yes, on page 3 is the boost valve and that is what im taking about. I wanted to know if you put those 2 orange springs in there and you did…As far as EPC solenoid, I wanted to know if you changed the entire electrical motor itself. But im guessing you did not as they cost $50-$100 depending if its GM or aftermarket….
I will keep you updated as I make some more positive progress… Let me know if you remember anything else about that little nippled valve, thanks so much
If you could only get the measurement of that single-nipple inner valve, it seems like a machine shop could precisely cut the old outer nipple to match it.
That strap method looks like a good idea, though it does seem you'd need to loosen things up a bit at the motor mounts and transmission mount, otherwise I don't see how you'd get any movement.
Pretty sure that video in my original post shows the guy cracking into that servo cover. He's working on a bench all shiney and clean, so it's not really fair, but it does provide a good look at the process, so you might check it out if you haven't. If it's not in that video, it's in another from the same guy on YouTube.
Good luck, keep us posted.