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Blazer Won't Start?

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Old 10-08-2015, 02:29 PM
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Default Blazer Won't Start?

Alright, I have a very difficult issue at hand. To keep stuff short, I have a 1997 Blazer 4 Door that will not start, engine turns over, and almost starts when gas is applied. Here are some more specific key points..
  • On the day of purchase, it was running and driving fine.
  • It had a very rough idle, and sounded like it wanted to stall, but never did.
  • It was working awesome until my friend sprayed water in the grille of the car, I'm not sure if this could give starting problems or not, since most of the water got sprayed on the radiator/fan.
  • I started it one morning, drove to the gas station (across the street) and back, and it was fine. I shut the car off so that I could rewire the drivers power seat, I noticed the connector for it was just laying under the drivers seat, and I couldn't find where it was supposed to be wired to, so I wired it to one of the three cigarette lighters. After putting everything back together, it doesn't want to start.

There's some back story on what has happened, and here is what I have tried so far.
  • Housing on starter was cracked, so I installed a new one.
  • Battery had a dead cell in it, bought a new battery.
  • All spark plugs and wires are getting a good spark.
  • Coil is sending off a good spark.
  • Cap and rotor are practically brand new and none of the terminals are bent or corroded.
  • Fuel pressure is reading 62psi, and I can hear the fuel pump kick in when turned to ON.
  • I was worring that it had been set into security mode, so I replaced the ignition switch.

I had it somewhat started for about 20 seconds, I was cranking the engine as my uncle was controlling the gas, the engine sounded like it was starving for gas. All electrical seems to be good, so I'm thinking it's a fuel pressure issue. What should I check first? Clogged fuel filter? Broken spider injectors? Bad fuel pump? Broken FPR? Also, could wiring the seat to the cigarette lighter have anything to do with it? Or is there a cable that I may have bumped into and unplugged?

Thanks to anyone and everyone that can help, help me get this thing running!
 
  #2  
Old 10-08-2015, 06:25 PM
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Follow the steps in this thread and post all 4 readings: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...eakdown-88305/


The distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs, all need to be AC Delco. Plug wires need to be a name brand, (AC Delco, Autolite, Belden, etc) Aftermarket and store brand stuff doesn't cut it on these engines.


These are all "basic" things that need to be correct before moving on to any other diagnostics.


Is the check engine light on? Are there any DTC's in memory?


You mentioned replacing the ignition switch... did you replace the actual ignition switch, or the lock cylinder & key set? 1997 is well known for faulty ignition switches and they can cause a no start condition. If you replaced the lock cylinder, the Passlock system might be disabling the injectors. Is the "security" light in the instrument cluster illuminated?
 
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Old 10-09-2015, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Follow the steps in this thread and post all 4 readings: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...eakdown-88305/


The distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs, all need to be AC Delco. Plug wires need to be a name brand, (AC Delco, Autolite, Belden, etc) Aftermarket and store brand stuff doesn't cut it on these engines.


These are all "basic" things that need to be correct before moving on to any other diagnostics.


Is the check engine light on? Are there any DTC's in memory?


You mentioned replacing the ignition switch... did you replace the actual ignition switch, or the lock cylinder & key set? 1997 is well known for faulty ignition switches and they can cause a no start condition. If you replaced the lock cylinder, the Passlock system might be disabling the injectors. Is the "security" light in the instrument cluster illuminated?
Hey, I appreciate the response. I replaced the actual ignition switch, and no results. No Check Engine lights, and no security light. This is why I'm really thrown off! Everything is also AC Delco. Does the EGR valve have anything to do with it? Mine was really dirty, I took it off and cleaned it a bit and when trying to start, the engine sounded a lot healthier, however, my battery wasn't charged enough to fully start the engine.
 
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:48 PM
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If the EGR valve is or was stuck open, (or any other problem with it) there would be a code set, and the check engine light would be on. That holds true with all OBDII sensors, which means if the light is off, and no codes are present, the problem is something that OBDII does not monitor. This eliminates many possibilities. Among other things, OBDII does not monitor secondary ignition, fuel pressure, or leakdown. That's where to start looking, "the basics"
 
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Old 10-10-2015, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
If the EGR valve is or was stuck open, (or any other problem with it) there would be a code set, and the check engine light would be on. That holds true with all OBDII sensors, which means if the light is off, and no codes are present, the problem is something that OBDII does not monitor. This eliminates many possibilities. Among other things, OBDII does not monitor secondary ignition, fuel pressure, or leakdown. That's where to start looking, "the basics"
Hmm, what's secondary ignition? Key ON not cranking I get 60psi steady pressure. Also, what's a leakdown test?? I had it started yesterday morning, I cleaned the EGR valve out, replaced a few fuses, undid some wiring that I did, and disconnected the fuel filter and let gas run out for a few seconds. It started, but was running rough at idle (as it was before) then I turned it off after about 20 seconds and now I can't get it to start again. Concerned that it may be a battery issue, I had it load tested and it was reading 337 CCA. I'm not sure if this is an intermittent issue.
 
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:19 AM
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Secondary ignition includes: Ignition coil, distributor cap & rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs.


In post #2 there is a link that explains the fuel delivery system, and how to check it. Testing fuel pressure at the service port is not enough. Post all 4 readings and we can analyze them.
 
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