Changed the heater core and now overheats
#31
Can you post your VIN and make sure the engine in the Blazer is the stock one?
Then - any modifications to the accessory drive? A/C removed or such?
I think - but not sure - with the long belts it is possible to route them incorrectly, or when A/C has been removed and using a shorter one it may reverse the water pump direction.
Coming back to the funny reading of the temp dropping 40 deg. in 5 seconds measured with the separate gauge. Where do you measure exactly?
Because I think that such a pronounced drop would indicate that cooler coolant is drawn from somewhere. Also have you checked, that the heating is actually working with a reasonable heat output?
Hmm - what else could there be?
Keep us posted
Then - any modifications to the accessory drive? A/C removed or such?
I think - but not sure - with the long belts it is possible to route them incorrectly, or when A/C has been removed and using a shorter one it may reverse the water pump direction.
Coming back to the funny reading of the temp dropping 40 deg. in 5 seconds measured with the separate gauge. Where do you measure exactly?
Because I think that such a pronounced drop would indicate that cooler coolant is drawn from somewhere. Also have you checked, that the heating is actually working with a reasonable heat output?
Hmm - what else could there be?
Keep us posted
The temp gauge is hooked up where the stock sensor is for the dash gauge, on the passenger side of the block by the exhaust manifold. It's almost like there is a pocket of air that keeps sitting in that area until I rev it, then is purges it, then comes back. Either that or the coolant isn't flowing well and the cooler stuff is basically just sitting in the radiator until I rev it, then it starts pulling/pushing it through the block. If that was the case though you would think it would just over heat just idling. The fan is rotating the right direction but I never did open up the new pump before I installed it to check the impeller, it's supposed to be new, not rebuilt so I didn't worry about it.
Heat output isn't bad but it never was real good. Before or after the core change. I'll try to measure that at the dash vent on my way to work this morning but awhile back when this first started and the gauge was reading pretty hot it was measuring about 100 at the vent with my IR thermometer.
#32
I'll post my VIN later but pretty sure the engine is stock. A/C system is original, nothing modified with the belt drive.
The temp gauge is hooked up where the stock sensor is for the dash gauge, on the passenger side of the block by the exhaust manifold. It's almost like there is a pocket of air that keeps sitting in that area until I rev it, then is purges it, then comes back. Either that or the coolant isn't flowing well and the cooler stuff is basically just sitting in the radiator until I rev it, then it starts pulling/pushing it through the block. If that was the case though you would think it would just over heat just idling. The fan is rotating the right direction but I never did open up the new pump before I installed it to check the impeller, it's supposed to be new, not rebuilt so I didn't worry about it.
Heat output isn't bad but it never was real good. Before or after the core change. I'll try to measure that at the dash vent on my way to work this morning but awhile back when this first started and the gauge was reading pretty hot it was measuring about 100 at the vent with my IR thermometer.
The temp gauge is hooked up where the stock sensor is for the dash gauge, on the passenger side of the block by the exhaust manifold. It's almost like there is a pocket of air that keeps sitting in that area until I rev it, then is purges it, then comes back. Either that or the coolant isn't flowing well and the cooler stuff is basically just sitting in the radiator until I rev it, then it starts pulling/pushing it through the block. If that was the case though you would think it would just over heat just idling. The fan is rotating the right direction but I never did open up the new pump before I installed it to check the impeller, it's supposed to be new, not rebuilt so I didn't worry about it.
Heat output isn't bad but it never was real good. Before or after the core change. I'll try to measure that at the dash vent on my way to work this morning but awhile back when this first started and the gauge was reading pretty hot it was measuring about 100 at the vent with my IR thermometer.
#33
With the engine at operating temp, the heater core inlet hose should be ~185F to ~190F, and the outlet hose should be slightly lower, ~170F. Air flow at the floor registers should be ~130F. The upper radiator hose, (at the thermostat housing), should be ~200F. Lower hose at the radiator should be ~130F.
#34
With the engine at operating temp, the heater core inlet hose should be ~185F to ~190F, and the outlet hose should be slightly lower, ~170F. Air flow at the floor registers should be ~130F. The upper radiator hose, (at the thermostat housing), should be ~200F. Lower hose at the radiator should be ~130F.
Is there a way I can test if the water pump impeller is correct without pulling it off? Weather is a little less than ideal lately so hoping for an easy way to check.
Oh and the VIN is 1GNDT13Z2N2163650.
#35
Your VIN should be:
1 = US Built
G = GM
N = Chevrolet MPV
D = 5001 - 6000 VWR Range and hydraulic brakes
T = Sm Conventional Cab 4x4
1 = 1/2 ton
3 = Four - Door Cab/Utility
Z = CPC (engine procucer) 4.3L V6 EFI which is RPO LB4
2 = Check digit
N = Year (should be 1992)
2 = Morraine, OH (assembly plant)
163650 = Production serial number
Not sure about the layout of the cooling lines to and from the heater core.
An air pocket could explain the funny behaviour of the system. Normally the V6 is absolutely no issue to fill the cooling system.
Not sure if somebody has experience with cooling systems that got a lot of slush or debris in them. I think you have flushed the whole engine and radiator? Sorry no time ot re-read the thread.
Water in the oil?
Oil in the radiator? (grey to brown slush)
1 = US Built
G = GM
N = Chevrolet MPV
D = 5001 - 6000 VWR Range and hydraulic brakes
T = Sm Conventional Cab 4x4
1 = 1/2 ton
3 = Four - Door Cab/Utility
Z = CPC (engine procucer) 4.3L V6 EFI which is RPO LB4
2 = Check digit
N = Year (should be 1992)
2 = Morraine, OH (assembly plant)
163650 = Production serial number
Not sure about the layout of the cooling lines to and from the heater core.
An air pocket could explain the funny behaviour of the system. Normally the V6 is absolutely no issue to fill the cooling system.
Not sure if somebody has experience with cooling systems that got a lot of slush or debris in them. I think you have flushed the whole engine and radiator? Sorry no time ot re-read the thread.
Water in the oil?
Oil in the radiator? (grey to brown slush)
#36
Your VIN should be:
1 = US Built
G = GM
N = Chevrolet MPV
D = 5001 - 6000 VWR Range and hydraulic brakes
T = Sm Conventional Cab 4x4
1 = 1/2 ton
3 = Four - Door Cab/Utility
Z = CPC (engine procucer) 4.3L V6 EFI which is RPO LB4
2 = Check digit
N = Year (should be 1992)
2 = Morraine, OH (assembly plant)
163650 = Production serial number
Not sure about the layout of the cooling lines to and from the heater core.
An air pocket could explain the funny behaviour of the system. Normally the V6 is absolutely no issue to fill the cooling system.
Not sure if somebody has experience with cooling systems that got a lot of slush or debris in them. I think you have flushed the whole engine and radiator? Sorry no time ot re-read the thread.
Water in the oil?
Oil in the radiator? (grey to brown slush)
1 = US Built
G = GM
N = Chevrolet MPV
D = 5001 - 6000 VWR Range and hydraulic brakes
T = Sm Conventional Cab 4x4
1 = 1/2 ton
3 = Four - Door Cab/Utility
Z = CPC (engine procucer) 4.3L V6 EFI which is RPO LB4
2 = Check digit
N = Year (should be 1992)
2 = Morraine, OH (assembly plant)
163650 = Production serial number
Not sure about the layout of the cooling lines to and from the heater core.
An air pocket could explain the funny behaviour of the system. Normally the V6 is absolutely no issue to fill the cooling system.
Not sure if somebody has experience with cooling systems that got a lot of slush or debris in them. I think you have flushed the whole engine and radiator? Sorry no time ot re-read the thread.
Water in the oil?
Oil in the radiator? (grey to brown slush)
If it's an air pocket which it does sound like then it's like it keeps coming back. Can't imagine the pocket would stay this long without working itself out.
I've flushed both radiator and engine and both were pretty clean, never has been that dirty.
So far the cooler weather is been behaving pretty well but has been a couple times on the highway where the temp got over 140 but then cooled down within a minute to between 130 and 140. When it does that I've been driving a fairly regular speed/rpm on pretty level ground. It's driving me nuts.
#37
ok i've read the whole thread and just a few things come to mind ..headgaskets although unlikely, water pump (there not to expensive i would replace again) and a possible upside down thermostat (i have seen this many times) my old jeep always had a overheating problem and when i finally decided to change the t-stat i found that the previous owner installed it upside down! well thats my 2 pennies :P
#38
ok i've read the whole thread and just a few things come to mind ..headgaskets although unlikely, water pump (there not to expensive i would replace again) and a possible upside down thermostat (i have seen this many times) my old jeep always had a overheating problem and when i finally decided to change the t-stat i found that the previous owner installed it upside down! well thats my 2 pennies :P
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