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Coolant through pushrods

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  #1  
Old 11-05-2014, 01:38 AM
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Default Coolant through pushrods

i dropped a SBC 350 into my blazer replaced the heads with a set of 88s cast iron heads that I got new still wrapped in the plastic new head gaskets. During start up I have coolant coming up through the pushrods on the driver side…some on the passenger side. I rechecked the torque on the bolt found that they were off( my torque wrench Was a pos )re torqued them same results is this a condition of me screwing up the head gasket or could it be another prob? The engine back apart ready for new gaskets…any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:39 PM
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The only way you could get coolant through pushrods in a SB chevy is if your lifter valley is filling up with coolant. Thats means intake gasket or head gasket leak or a cracked block.
Did you check to see if the pan was full of oil and coolant? You should have done a pressure test before you tore the motor back down because now you have to reassemble everything to test it.
 
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:47 PM
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changing heads , blocks and intakes an be an issue
I would take a close look that the intake matches geometry
 
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:12 PM
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I've Replaced both head gaskets and the intake gasket. It has an Edelbrock 2101 performer intake on it with new heads. The problem is that the engine is full of mixed oil and coolant. So it's still coming through the pushrods. Does anyone now a good way to clean it out of the engine so I can see if it's fixed. Plus it's not firing… I brought the engine to what I believe is TDC and aligned the ready to run distributor to point at the number one cylinder. The engine spins coolants comes up through the rods and the carb sends fuel
Up threw the carb. Yes there was coolant in the oil when I drained it. I be grateful for any advice on any of the problems. The guy who I bought the engine off says it was fine when he removed it
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:43 AM
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you need to get the antifreeze out as soon as possible and switch to water until you figure this out weather permitting
Antifreeze will eat away the bearings
 
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:16 PM
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drain the crankcase and refill with oil. remove the dist. and spin the oil pump with a drill or socket to purge the galleys and passages of coolant. check the head gaskets on the head and block and make sure all the holes line up, also be sure the gaskets are on right, most are labeled "top" on them. make sure you are not putting early heads on a late block or vise-versa. gasket match the intake gaskets as well. MAKE SURE THE MANIFOLD FITS THE HEAD!!check that both have the same angle. also measure the port sizes, the head and manifold must be the same. some manifolds like the Edelbrock Air Gap are raised port manifolds, in other words the ports are taller to fit aluminum heads with 195 cc and larger intake ports also make sure the manifold and heads are the same engine style IE: Vortec, old style, Lt1, etc...
Felpro makes a thicker intake gasket also if needed. be sure to add silicone around the water ports front and rear of the heads and on both sides of the intake gasket. when you have it back together fill with WATER and pressure test it at 20-25 psi and check for leaks. it should hold for 20 mins or longer. the no start concern is from the dist being 180 degrees off. you need to be sure you have #1 up on the compression stroke, watch the valves, when the intake valve on #1 closes. the next time the marks line up you have #1 at tdc. you never stated what year the engine block is or what 88s heads are?. 1970 engine block and 1988 heads are not a good match. good luck and keep the wrenches turnin"
 

Last edited by cardude59; 11-25-2014 at 10:31 PM.
  #7  
Old 11-25-2014, 10:24 PM
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Replaced the head gaskets intake gaskets sealed the water ports. Ran oil with some ATF through it drained refilled it problem solved thanks for all the advice
 
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:35 PM
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glad to hear it great job!
 
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