Engine not starting or cranking, starter works on bench though, not in car.
#1
Engine not starting or cranking, starter works on bench though, not in car.
I REALLY need some help.
Okay, so a few weeks ago, I was driving home and my car randomly just stopped running, and would not start. It would crank though. Looking into it, I didn't hear the fuel pump ever turn on afterwards whenever I would turn it to aux power. So I bought a new fuel pump, replaced it, and it still didn't start, only cranked. So I began to look around more, and it turns out that a little but away from the fuel pump wiring harness, the ground wire was had corrosion all on it. Seeing this, I cut the corroded part off, and spliced the ground wire back together. I went to try and start it up, but when I did, all I heard was clicking. This was odd because it was cranking but not starting just a little before that. So I took off the starter, got it tested, and it works on the bench, and not in the car. After a while of trying to start it and it just click, it began to just click once, and then all battery power would be lost. After it would do that, I would have to disconnect and reconnect the battery again. Looking into it more, something was also draining my battery, and it was draining it fast. So I went back to the spliced fuel pump ground wire after charging the battery, and undone the splice, so there would be no ground connection to the fuel pump. Doing this stopped my battery from being drained, but only led me back to where my starter would just click and not crank nor start. I don't know where to go from here and am too cheap to go to the mechanic lol. But please help! I didn't know if this should be posted in the mechanical/engine problems or in the electrical, so spare the criticism. Also, I'm posting this in the mechanical/electrical problem forum too.
Okay, so a few weeks ago, I was driving home and my car randomly just stopped running, and would not start. It would crank though. Looking into it, I didn't hear the fuel pump ever turn on afterwards whenever I would turn it to aux power. So I bought a new fuel pump, replaced it, and it still didn't start, only cranked. So I began to look around more, and it turns out that a little but away from the fuel pump wiring harness, the ground wire was had corrosion all on it. Seeing this, I cut the corroded part off, and spliced the ground wire back together. I went to try and start it up, but when I did, all I heard was clicking. This was odd because it was cranking but not starting just a little before that. So I took off the starter, got it tested, and it works on the bench, and not in the car. After a while of trying to start it and it just click, it began to just click once, and then all battery power would be lost. After it would do that, I would have to disconnect and reconnect the battery again. Looking into it more, something was also draining my battery, and it was draining it fast. So I went back to the spliced fuel pump ground wire after charging the battery, and undone the splice, so there would be no ground connection to the fuel pump. Doing this stopped my battery from being drained, but only led me back to where my starter would just click and not crank nor start. I don't know where to go from here and am too cheap to go to the mechanic lol. But please help! I didn't know if this should be posted in the mechanical/engine problems or in the electrical, so spare the criticism. Also, I'm posting this in the mechanical/electrical problem forum too.
#2
Not sure how you determined the battery was being drained, was it from a parasitic draw test or were you just measuring the voltage at the battery peiodically and see that the voltage kept getting lower each time you checked? Did you use the same battery for the bench test? Suggest you take the battery to an auto parts store to have it load tested.
#3
Not sure how you determined the battery was being drained, was it from a parasitic draw test or were you just measuring the voltage at the battery peiodically and see that the voltage kept getting lower each time you checked? Did you use the same battery for the bench test? Suggest you take the battery to an auto parts store to have it load tested.
#4
I would take the battery itself to have it tested. A battery can show good voltage and charge, but under load be bad. Combine that with the fact that the way you checked for drain could be just the battery draining on it's own. A bonus is once have the battery tested under load, you can be confident that you have a good battery to conduct following tests. The way you would check to see if something is actually draining the battery would be a parasitic draw test. Voltage is potential, amperage is actual draw. You could end up chasing your tail a lot only to find you have a bad battery. A weak battery can cause many symptons that you wouldn't expect.
#5
Just thought of an analogy...think of a brand new cell phone or laptop computer. How it seems to hold the charge for days. After a couple of years, it seems like your having to charge it a couple times a day. Then the next thing you know it doesn't seem to hold a charge at all. The battery symbol shows the battery full, but next time you look at it, your rushing to plug it back in to charger. Kind of the same idea as your car battery.
Maybe your battery is fine, but I would start there.
Maybe your battery is fine, but I would start there.
#6
Just thought of an analogy...think of a brand new cell phone or laptop computer. How it seems to hold the charge for days. After a couple of years, it seems like your having to charge it a couple times a day. Then the next thing you know it doesn't seem to hold a charge at all. The battery symbol shows the battery full, but next time you look at it, your rushing to plug it back in to charger. Kind of the same idea as your car battery.
Maybe your battery is fine, but I would start there.
Maybe your battery is fine, but I would start there.
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