I need more time in the day....lol...or atleast more light, and more energy.

 

ALRIGHT, update.

Today i noticed my temperature raise all the way to maybe...180-190'ish and then drop quickly to 160 and then hovered between 150 and 160 like it had been doing. Then later in the day it did the same thing...looks like it only goes that high on its first trip up after the car has been cold.

So I changed the thermostat in anyway, put the little higher quality one in there to see if it would help, but i still have the same symptoms on my temp gauge. However, the car seems to be putting out better heat under acceleration now, but cold when stopped. I think I read on here that that would indicate a blocked heater core, but i had the whole system flushed so it must be some major blockage. Anyway, i guess i'll try to get any air out of the system this weekend and flush the heater core.

Any suggestions on how to flush the heater core if i dont have a hose easily accessible?

 

Could i clear my heater core of blockage by running a pipe snake through it rather than flushing it with a garden hose?

 

No, don't do that or kiss it goodbye, go back afew of posts ' heat issue now', read my post, I've gone thru this for over a week now (same problem) And I finally got it. My original problem was a leaking intake manifold, If you think it's only a heater core issue, read on how i did mine, but mine had alot air trapped somewhere in the motor, core, ect.. To get the air out quickly, do raise it pass. side, but to speed up the process, cap off, get something or someone to hold down the pedal @ 1500-2000 rpms. This will warm the motor quicker and open the stat, and you'll get alot more flow through the radiator, stay there and watch for bubbles of air on the top fin of the radiator, keeping it full all the time, it will drop slowly as air escapes the system, It took me nearly 1/2 hr to get it all, now when your satisfied theres no more air, when the rpm's are still up, cap it, then let the rpm's down, and lower the truck, and be sure your coolant tank is @ the full hot mark. You should be good to go.

 

I will begin loosing coolant immediately out of the radiator when i do this right?

Sorry for the newb questions, but when im going to be standing out in the cold doing this, I want to do it right and only have to do it once. My 3 hour trip to Indianapolis this weekend was FREEZING, so I really need to get this fixed.

 

Have you read my post - Heat issue now- ? This is how I flushed my radiator core and get the air out after I did the flush. You shouldn't get much if any your bleeding it only, (if that's the problem) Mine stemmed from a leaking intake gasket, then a clogged heater core issue. If your just gonna try just bleedingthe air, with the truck up passenger side only, bring it up about 6" or so, but, When I did mine remember I had the rpm's @ about 1500-2000 steady,heat on high,then I removed the cap, no coolant was lost, just let it run @ those rpm's till the stat opens, you'll see air bubbles from the top couple of fins in the radiator for a while 1/2hr, as the air gets escapes the coolant level should drop, keep the coolant up to the top couple fins. When your satisfied there no more air, fill it to the top, cap it.Be sure the recovery tank is full and the line is free flowing. Now let the motor come down to idle. You should have heat if that was the problem (air). Mine was a clogged heater core after changing the intake manifold gasket. This was found (leaking) by doing a pressure test on the radiator, and the pressure was dropping. Give that a shot, if it's only air, you should be all set. Good Luck.

 

Alright, looking for some more advice, all experts please chime in please please please!

Tried getting the air out of the system, jacked passenger side as high as possble, removed cap, started engine, coolant rose high enough that it egan trickling out of the neck or the radiator. Let it continue like this or awhile to see if i would ever see any air bubbles, i saw nothing so i waited for the engine to come up to temp, nothing still, turned off engine, topped off overflow to make up for waht was lost through the constant trickling. still NO HEAT. Took the car fo a drive...came up to normal temp 210ish, little lower, then DROPPED fast to 150 then flucuated between 150 and 160. When i first left the garage the heat was blowing hot, but the longer i was out in the cold the colder it got.

Also i've replaced the fan clutch tonight because it was running on a cold start even and i thought someone said it shouldnt do that, so i replaced the clutch and the fan still spins on start and non-stop.

Please experts chime in im beyond frustrted with this thing now. Here is what i've tried.
-Replaced T-stat, twice
-Complete Coolant System Flush
-Replaced Fan Clutch
-Bled Coolant System (i think)

My next possible move.
-Rad Cap???? Could that simple piece really be causing these problems and the temp flux?
-Heater Core Flush??? With hopefully higher pressure than what the system flush used? But would that even cause the flux?

I feel im almost out of the cheap fixes, what're some more of the major problems that I could be looking at??? Oil looks fine, not milky at all that I can tell.

My screen name on AIM is the same as my user name on here if someone thinks they can help and it would be easier to talk on there for them. Thank you.

 

Still sounds like air in the system. If air gets to the temp sensor for the gauge, it can drop the indicated reading to that which you have listed. It can take quite a while and several heat cycles to get all of the air out of a system.

 

Should I have coolant trickling out of the radiator the whole time im getting the air out though?

 

If the radiator was full, then yes. As the coolant warms up, it expands. That is why there is a hot level and a cold level in the coolant reservoir. You should go through at least 2 heat cycles with the truck up on the jack stands and the cap off. Warm the truck up to operating temperature (or as close as it will go), then shut it off and let it cool down again. Top off the radiator and start over. I have had some where I have done this 4 times before giving up and driving the vehicle, popping the cap off when hot to let the steam/air escape and top off the coolant level periodically during the drive.