Has the problem been resolved?

 

nope! I was going to check in with you today... thanks for thinking of me! lol Between a million other things I finally got the filter/pan back on, jump started it, filled him up correctly and drove a few miles, exact same. well, knew there was a good chance of that so back to chasing down the CEL checking fuel delivery etc. The connector is the second one in your pic, OBDII. My chiltons came in too but there isn't an engine in here that matches my car exactly. For example, there isn't a single diagram where the MAP is on the right side (drivers side)but mine so clearly is. The only diagram reference I'm able to go by in here is just wire colors and finding what that is in the book. So far I've established my IAC valve does not have the correct resistance (though I doubt that's related), and my MAP is fine. Hope I have more time to throw at this later this week, and hope you're having a good one.

 

how can i test the brwn/wht wire at pcm for sign it's trying to throw the MIL?

chiltons is like: it gets 12v at fuse and it's brown/white connection under the dash... something like that- thanks for a buncha nothin book. I'm for some reason liking the Haynes I ordered for my honda way way more. I guess chilton's is for the more advanced mechanic?

 

Chilton & Haynes are both totally worthless. "More advanced"? Absolutely NOT. If you need help changing the oil, they might be OK. As you've already found out, half of the information is wrong, and the other half is missing. If you want an accurate shop manual, with accurate information, get a GM factory S/T series "dealer issue" shop manual. They are year and model specific with 2 or 3 manuals in the set, and have over 3K pages. Ebay usually has them used for a reasonable cost.

With that in mind, 1995 had three different computer control systems and two different fuel injection systems, (the main reason why Oldsmobile did not produce the Bravada in 1995). Yours has OBD1.5 computer controls with CMFI fuel delivery. Not all scan tools will communicate with your PCM. Your PCM has some of the capabilities of OBDII, but it is NOT fully OBDII compliant.

Next step is check fuel pressure and leakdown at the service port next to the distributor. Most auto parts stores rent/loan testers for free, and sell them for ~$40. When you initially turn the ignition to the run position, (don't start the engine) the fuel pump will activate for ~2 seconds and shut off. Fuel pressure must be checked during the 2 second time frame. Key on, engine off, fuel pump running, pressure must be 55psi to 61psi. It must remain above 50psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. Post your results.

 

ok, the book at least did kinda talk about that crazy year in 95 when the computers and connectors didn't match and i knew i was dealing with this. I'll get the pressure tester when I go in to grab the rest of the little stuff I need for head gasket on honda over spring break.

 

Keep us posted, and feel free to ask questions.

 

FINALLY! I didn't have long to read up on how to do fuel pressure test, someone brought one by but had to take it back with them so I did the best I could, hope I did it right...

When key on ign off in first 2 seconds was between 58-59 psi

leaving in on position for 10 minutes it fell all the way from 59 to 42

at operating temperature w throttle it was 54 psi

 

Regulated pressure should be 55psi to 61psi, so you're good there. Leakdown is excessive, shouldn't drop below 50psi for at least 10 minutes. There are no engine running specs for this engine, all tests are done with the engine off.

Next step is determine where the excessive leakdown is coming from, (tank or plenum). You'll need to modify the tester so it will connect directly to the fuel filter outlet. All pressure and flow must end at the tester, (no fuel allowed to the engine).

 

HELP!!! I have this thread's original problem! 2000 ZR2 blazer. installed an aftermarket transmission cooler today. went for a mud run in the woods. when I hit the pavement I only have gears 1,2,3,R..... what happened? I drove all day yesterday with no problems. I need help diagnosing this stupid thing! haha

 

After reading the whole post I agree with Captain Hook diagnosis tree, till it turned to fuel related. but i also agree fuel PSI and volume can seem to be transmission trouble. we used to replace a lot of clogged fuel filters at the transmission shop to fix their truck. every customer was tickled that the trans job only turned out to be a $50.00 repair instead of $1000's, but this quote brings me back home to the transmission...


If the 2-4 band is burned up because of the bad TCC solenoid. 2nd gear would have a long slide into gear and possibly no 4th at all because of the gear ratio's. How many stick units with a clutch hold in 1st & 2nd then slip worse as you up-shift. we used to take them out for a road test and stick them in 5th about 35-40 then stand on the gas. we called it the Bill Rogers memorial test. if it slipped away the clutch was dead, just like the Founding owner that taught us the test.
so it sounds to me like the small black flakes and debris found in the filter could be from burned up 2-4 band.
Just my 2 cents worth