Is the transmission dip stick tube easy to replace? I just notice that the one in my blazer is completely rusted on the inside along with the dipstick. I can run the dipstick over a wire wheel to fix that but is it simple to swap out the tube? Does any one know the part number for the 4.3 trans filler tube?

Thanks!

 

Just found this on the web: (note the price of the filler tube has increasedatleast three timesto $37.90!)

"Another GM design goof - either the windshield washer leaks water onto the dipstick, which has a lousy seal, allowing water into the tranny, or the seal at the base of the tube[/b] allows (rain) water in. Regardless, this is a re-occurring problem. The replacement cost as follows:

Dipstick Tube[/b] - P/N 15735192[/b], retail list $9.16
Dipstick (Indicator) - P/N 15033544, retail list $5.44
Seal - P/N 1259475, retail list $1.53.
Labor - 2.8 hrs., or 181.50

Including the 1 qt. of ATF, total cost $199.17 + tax.

Note: the dealership did not change (flush) the tranny after this replacement. Since I didn't want rust particles trapped in the tranny or in the filter, I promptly changed the fluid/filter adterwards.

There is a service bulletin for rusty dipstick:

Service Bulletin Number: 990730004A
Bulletin Sequence Number: 608
Date of Bulletin: 9910
NHTSA Item Number: SB6089191
Make: OLDSMOBILE TRUCK
Model: BRAVADA
Year: 1997
Component: EQUIPMENT:TRANSMISSION FLUID INDICATOR
Summary: A CONDITION WITH A RUSTY TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL INDICATOR /
TRANSMISSION OIL FILLER[/b] TUBE[/b]. *TT

I service my transmission every 30K with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. The synthetic is more tolerant of high temperatures from high-speed driving, climbing hills, pulling a boat, etc. I have also added an external tranny cooler as additional insurance. "

 

Well looks like I missed your original post.
Difficult to change, nope, just a pain in the ****.That's why its $182.

this is a new problem to me. Generally the rust comes from not driving the vehcile long enough to burn off hte condensation.

 

Did you actually do this repair before? I am hesitant to do it myself as its 14.5 degrees outside right now. Do I have to actually unbolt frame crossmembers or move the tranny?

 

Removed the dipstick tube numerous times, although mostly to pull the tranny out to rebuild it.

The hardest part is getting the top tranny / engine bolt out. That bolt holds the dipstick tube in place, once that bolt is out pull hard and it comes out. Snaking it back into place isn't much fun, but doable.

Teh fastest way to get that top bolt out is a toss up. How big are your hands and how much arm strength do you have?
If you can get the top bolt (passengers side) free by using a closed end box wrench from teh top of the engine that would be the quickest, not very easy. there isn't much room.

another option is to remove both driveshafts (11mm unjoint bolts, 4 each driveshaft), remove the t-case/tranny cross bace (4 bolts- eitehr 13mm or 15mm, plus where it mounts to the t-case or tranny 15mmx2), and tip the back of the tranny down (use a block of wood under the tranny pan and a floor jack) until the fan or distributor touch. Then use about 3' of extensions and a wobble socket to get the bolt out. Yuo'll need a light to see the bolt.

Replace the dipstick gasket. smear tranny fluid around the gasket, inside and out. Two methods to install. Put gasket on dipstick tube, or put gasket in tranny and then slide dipstick home. It'll be tight, dont damage the gasket or you'll do it al over again once you discover the puddle under the truck after driving it.

Pain in the ****, not worth the $181 bucks if you have some mechanical skills. You could buy all the tools you need for less than the cost of the repair and use them on other repairs. this is how my tool collection grows. Much easier if you have a garage to work in, even if it isn't insulated. Just getting out of the wind is a huge mental help.

 

Thanks for the info! I have small hands with moderate strength. I will try this out on my next weekend.

 

This is good to know, I purchased a 99 s10 2.2L over the summer with 63k. I also noticed a little rust on the end of the dip stick. But the car was sitting for about 2 years before I got it so hopefully thats the problem.

 

Alright, cool.

Here are some tool tricks that might help you out to gain leverage.
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines....nr2/211474.jpg
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines....nr2/211473.jpg

 

Wow; this seems to be nearly impossible. There are too manys wire harnesses in the way from the top and I can barely even see the bracket that is welded to the tube. Did you remove the wire harnesses?

 

Here is my amended mission: Drop the drans pan and scrub the filler tube with metal tube brushes.