Feel like a moron asking this, but that's how ya learn. Got a 92 s10 blazer, 4.3 TBI one belt drive. Recently installed a larger case alternator and have been trying to solve my low voltage problem. Got zen like and just stared at the engine. And started thinking about the belt tensioner.
Agian, I feel like a moron but I thought there wasn't any marks on it. But I noticed there are two arrows, and two little marks that look like l l that. Should the arrows be in the center of each of the l l marks? Cause mine are off by a good bit. Haven't noticed any souns like the belt slipping or anything. Just getting sizeable voltage drops and lights dimming. Here's some pics to explain what I'm talking about.

Here is how it looks now. One finger is pointing at the l l mark and one on the arrow.

As you can see they arn't lined up. Also this angle shows that the idler pully is directly below the tensioner, which I thought is suppose to be kinda out towards the drivers side.


What I'm wondering is if the arrows and the l l marks should be lined up like this?


I know this is simple stuff, but they say geniuses have little to no common sence... just joking. I'm gonna go ahead and replace the tensioner pulley just because. And the idler pulley is only about 1.5 years old and has under 20,000 miles on it I'd say. So I'll hold on it. So could the tensioner's arrows and l l marks not lining up be because the belt is too big? The alt swap I did calls for a inch longer than stock belt, maybe I don't need quite the whole inch. I'll see if I can get a smaller belt to align those two marks up. Just thought I'd ask. Thanks for reading.

 

Hmmm, I'm gonna have to take a look at mine. Posted in the low voltage thread with the same problem. Maybe after I got my AC fixed they used a different belt and its tighter or looser! Good eyes on ya!

 

Ha ha, whats the odds... I thought the arrows were suppose to be on the outer edges of a bar thats on the piece that holds the tensioner to the bracket, but then today I saw those l l marks while I was checking battery voltage and started thinking.

My ex's uncle works at a Advance Auto nearby. And has a 91 s10 with about 5 inches of lift and know's a good bit about them. I'll swing by there tomarrow before work and see what he thinks about it. I can change the tensioner pulley and serpentine belt in the parking lot and if it helps I'll tell ya. Forgot about you posting in the other thread...

 

I just looked at my buddies 94 k1500. The arrows are only like a smidge off from the two V marks. So I figure that's how It should be and my belt is too big. I'll get a diffrent belt tomarrow morning and see what happens!

 

I have looked through mine and the arrow and the | | marks are not aligned with it. only about a few centimeters away. I see the serpentine tensioner on my truck that way.

 

Does anyone know if the voltage regulation for the alternator in these trucks is tied to the PCM at all or does the alt self-regulate?

The alternator shouldn't be able to put out a low voltage, it would be regulated up. Perhaps the regulation electronics are damaged. Or if the voltage is regulated by the PCM, maybe the alt you put in just isn't compatible?

 

Nah, the voltage isn't regulated by the CPU that I know off. I put the factory belt back on and it lined the arrows on the tensioner back up. Everyone said I'd need a one inch longer serpentine belt for this alternator swap, but my factory belt fits the new alt just the same as the old cs-130 alternator. My voltage is pretty normal now.

I still get very minor voltage drops that I'm addressing, but my headunit isn't shutting off with the bass hits like it did, lol.

 

When I did the AD244, I was surprised to find out the gatorback I had fit perfectly fine (4060960). The next belt up is 4060967, but I don't think there's any reason to buy that??? My gatorback fits a bit tighter than it did with the factory alternator, but the tensioner still has some room to move. I now have a bit of an occasional squeak developing when I give it gas from idle, but nothing serious yet. I was going to buy the 4060967 belt, but I haven't convinced myself it's necessary.

How bad are the voltage drops you speak of?

Did you do a good job with your Big-3? What gauge wire to your amp? I added a 4gauge ground from battery to the bottom frame and used one of the bolts on the front tow hook. 2/0 from alternator post to amp and 4gauge from alternator to battery.

My AD-244 runs around 13.8v-14.2v when hot with some slight dips at idle when I bump my system. I'm at a solid 14.5-14.6 when cold. It's 100x better than the factory alternator (I'd have to turn down my stereo every time a light turned red!).

 

Main thing I have right now is lights dimming. Drops aren't as bad as they were. I have the big 3 done in 1/0 and 1/0 for the amps ground and 4 gauge for the amp power cause I haven't gotten off my lazy butt and ran the 1/0, .

I still get some drops like I said, but with having the headunit at 30 on volume instead of 31 where it distorts, and really fine tuning all the amps settings it's alot better than it was. Drops are only like 1-1.5 volts now. I was dropping 2-3.

 

Mine went away after I pulled my system. I used to run under 14v all day at NO volume. Put it back to stock and it sits just higher than 14v now. Guess it was a bit of a strain just having them in. I didn't have the big 3 done at all with 2500Watts at 42 with distortion being 43. My next crack at an audio system will consist of big 3 first. The dual Kenetix batts along with stock one up front.