Timing Chain Cover Installation Help '98 Blazer 4.3L
#1
Timing Chain Cover Installation Help '98 Blazer 4.3L
I am trying to reinstall the timing chain cover on my Blazer 4.3L with the engine installed. I am having a tremendous amount of difficulty getting the bottom channel of the timing cover into position over the rubber oil pan gasket that it is supposed to mate with. Does anyone have any tricks to make this go easier? I am really getting frustrated with the whole thing! Thanks in advance...
BD
BD
#2
Have you loosened the oil pan?
#3
No, I haven't done that yet. The mechanic (son-in-law) who botched up the job in the first place told me that since the oil pan is a structural member and since it is made of cast iron that it would probably not do much good to loosen the front bolts. Also, to loosen the pan entirely (at least according to the Haynes manual) requires moving the front axle and jacking up the engine....
#4
Who said anything about just the front bolts...? You have to loosen them all as well as the bolts between the oil pan and the bell housing on the transmission. When you tighten them back down, just barely snug the bolt for the pan and then tighten the bell housing bolts completely, then finish torquing the oil pan bolts.
It's cast aluminum, not cast iron.
It's cast aluminum, not cast iron.
#5
I realize YOU didn't say anything about loosening just the front bolts. That was what the Haynes manual suggested for someone trying to get the timing chain cover installed with the engine installed. I had brought that suggestion up with my son-in-law and he said since the oil pan is cast aluminum he did not think that would do any good.
I will try loosening all the bolts and see if I can get it installed that way. Obviously, I should probably drain the oil first? And do I need to use any RTV sealant before bolting the oil pan back up?
BD
I will try loosening all the bolts and see if I can get it installed that way. Obviously, I should probably drain the oil first? And do I need to use any RTV sealant before bolting the oil pan back up?
BD
#6
I always use a dab of RTV @ the corners. You don't need to drop the pan much to get the timing cover in place. But you will have to loosen the whole pan as stated.
#7
I will do that. Thanks for all your help.
BD
BD
#8
First of all, please forgive me if I have posted this question in the wrong place. I have been searching the forum and this is the closest I have come to the information I am seeking.
I need to lower the oil pan on my 98 2WD ( no differential in the way). The problem I am having is the oil filter adapter is in the way of the one last bolt I need to loosen to lower the pan.
I would like to remove the adapter and replace all the old gaskets, but I can't figure out how it is attached. I have a '97 GM shop manual that shows a hex head bolt in the center, but my '98 is different. It looks like an allen wrench goes into the center of the thing with the filter threads. I have tried loosening that fixture, it doesn't budge and I'm afraid to break something.
How do I remove the oil filter/cooler adapter thing?
Thanks in advance for your patience and wisdom.
Strode
I need to lower the oil pan on my 98 2WD ( no differential in the way). The problem I am having is the oil filter adapter is in the way of the one last bolt I need to loosen to lower the pan.
I would like to remove the adapter and replace all the old gaskets, but I can't figure out how it is attached. I have a '97 GM shop manual that shows a hex head bolt in the center, but my '98 is different. It looks like an allen wrench goes into the center of the thing with the filter threads. I have tried loosening that fixture, it doesn't budge and I'm afraid to break something.
How do I remove the oil filter/cooler adapter thing?
Thanks in advance for your patience and wisdom.
Strode
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