I know there are many threads mentioning this issue, but I have a few questions that I couldn't find answered on other threads. Any help you guys could give is much appreciated.
So my transfer case rear seal is leaking pretty good. I wanted to check the fluid level because I figured it was pretty low, and I read on here that if fluid pours out, then the input seal needs to be replaced. So I open up the fill plug and lo and behold it pours out like crazy. I'm assuming that I need to replace the input seal and the rear seal of the transfer case but I'm not positive if that is correct or if there are other seals as well that will need replacing.
I also read that if not fixed, I could get fluid into the vacuum lines and possibly the HVAC system. Could someone explain to me how this happens? I'd just like to know the mechanics of how the fluid ends up getting into those lines. Also, where would I look to find out if this has already happened to my truck? I got the truck recently so I don't know how long the input seal has been bad, but the rear seal just started leaking a couple weeks ago. Someone else mentioned that this could cause slipping and make the transmission fail. I'd also like to know how this happens.
Does the transfer case fill up slowly over time when the seal is bad or is it more like an open pipe? I'm asking because of the whole bunch of extra fluid that came out of the transfer case, and I'm wondering how much fluid I need to put into the transmission now that I let the extra drain out of the t case. The transmission fluid itself is low too so I'm not sure how much it needs, or if it all just fills back into the t case immediately? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to understand what I'm up against.
My final set of questions is about how long I can wait to fix this. I know it is not wise to wait to fix something like this, but I have to take one more trip up to school tomorrow to get all of my stuff before I can stay home for the summer and actually work on the truck. I just came home for the weekend and found out that I have this problem. It's about 140 miles round trip. The transmission as of today shifts just fine and I've never had any problems with it. I plan on fixing it as soon as I get back. Now that the fluid is at the normal level does that bide me any time at all? or as in my previous question is the t case just going to fill right back up again?
Thanks for bearing with me and reading all of this. Please help!

-Melissa

 

The lines are under vacuum, but that pressure fluctuates when things happen (vents open/close, 4wd activates, etc) which can pull the fluid in. This occurs when both the input seal AND the vacuum switch leak. So if you have trans fluid in your vacuum lines at the t-case, you will want to replace the vacuum switch as well as the leaking input seal and anything else that is leaking at that point in time.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I understand that much better now. Are the lines exposed to the top of the inside of the transfer case? I wasn't sure how the extra fluid would make contact with the lines. Sorry if that's a stupid question.
Do you know if it would be okay to drive it one more time before fixing it? I know you have no idea how long it's been messed up and neither do I, but I'm just trying to gauge whether or not it would be really stupid of me to make the trip tomorrow. I don't want to cause more damage but I really need to pick up all of my things at my apartment.

 

The vacuum lines connect to the vacuum switch on the transfer case. That is why you need a combination of failures to occur for fluid to get into the lines.

 

Won't tell you to go or noy bit you can pull the vacuum switch lines off and see if the have fluid in them. I certainly watch the trans fluid level. You're gonna have to pull the t-case to fix the front seal problem. The rear one you can do in the truck. It's not that bad of a job but get some hefty guys to help you. I just fiund it easier to unbolt the t-case and manhandle it out vs a jack (although you will nrrd ine. There is a bolt on the bottom of the t-case that;s usually hard ti see because when these things leak a lot of times it ruins the trans mount and it sags. I would plan on a new one of thodr too (about $15.00 - $20.00) and some new gaskets. On my 94 I had to get a rear seal for a 95 (if the seal is long you'll have to do this too) because that's how they are. Don't worry you'll be able to tell. The problem is that the rear of the trans has no seal by itself, just the t-case seal. By the way sometimes the screws on the front t-case seal can be very diffucult to remove. Need help just ask away. I've dine this to mine recently.

 

Thanks Swartlkk and Gimpy. Hey Gimpy, do you know if when the seal is toast if it's a slow leak from the tranny into the transfer case or if it all just kinda dumps back there pretty fast?

UPDATE:
I just went to leave my house and I couldn't get to the end of the street. Ugh. It's definitely slipping. It ran great just yesterday. Do you guys think that opening the plug and letting all of the extra fluid out messed it up? If I change the seals and fix the leak will it be okay or now that it started slipping do I need a new transmission? Like I said, I just drove to the end of the street. I am so pissed.

 

STOP NOW!!! Your transmission is probably still OK but fill (not overfill) it NOW or it will be toast. You can pull the trans dipstick and smell the fluid. If it smells burnt, I'd first try changing the fluid and filter (I'm not a big fan of flushing the transmission) and see if that smell goes away. I guess you have a pretty good leak through the seal. I doubt if letting the excess out did it. That's a pretty big cavity between the trans and the t-case. Stay in touch.
PS How about your interior lights? I know they probably just moved down a notch or two on the priority list but did you get them fixed? (Memory like an elephant)

 

Don't worry, I just drove it to the end the street, realized I had a problem, and drove it back home. We're talking a couple hundred feet. I'll check it to see if it smells burnt.
I just checked the fluid level, it's at the right level, and does not smell burnt. Is it possible that the emergency brake was stuck on? I've been using it every time I park lately, because the truck likes to roll even when it's in park, which is a whole other problem. But not being able to get down the street felt a lot like the brake was on. I just assumed it was slipping because I pulled the e brake cable to release it before I left, so I figured that couldn't be the problem.
The interior lights have moved down a notch but another new development started today also (i have the best luck) that's going to make it hard to ignore. Whenever I turn the lights on, that annoying alarm that lets you know that you left the lights on stays on and won't turn off unless I turn the dimmer switch all the way to the left. Which is going to make night driving unbearable. Now that I'm stuck here I'll have time to fix it. But we can talk about that on the other thread I guess because it's kinda off topic.

 

Will try to look at the W/Ds and let you know about the buzzer.

 

Hey Gimpy, to update, it definitely has to do with the transmission/ some part of the electrical system. The guy at the garage said that the fuse must be a coincidence to the problem but all 3 times I have ever put the fuse in with the truck running it would lock up and the speedometer wouldn't move. He also said that it's starting out in second gear which is why it feels weird like it doesn't want to go. I don't know what this has to do with the fuse, but this problem has only happened when I put this fuse in. Today was different though. I was on my way back home and I was halfway down the road when it seemed to just lock up. I tried several times to remove the fuse and put it back in but the problem persisted. I had to get the truck towed home. Now I looked at the list of common 4l60e issues and I found 2 that sound like my problem. I'm thinking it has to be one of these two things, only problem is, I don't know how the fuse fits in with all of this at all. Let me know what you think.


5. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: VSS failure. Easy fix on rear of transmission, but xmember must come out to access VSS.

12. Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it's moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.


With the first one, the speedo is what's making me think the speed sensor might have something to do with it, but the fact that it also feels like the brakes are on and the guy said it's starting in another gear makes me think it might be computer related, especially when I have only noticed a problem when the fuse is involved.

UPDATE:
I took out the vss and it had metal shavings stuck to it and I cleaned it off and put it back in but it didn't help. I'm worried because the electrical connector part of it had trans fluid all over it when I detached it from the vss. Seeing as it is an electrical component I'm going to assume that that's not supposed to be there. Does anyone know for sure? I'm thinking it got in there when the transfer case filled up to the top from the input seal leaking. If the fluid is not supposed to be there I'm thinking I'll need a new vss, and possibly the electrical connector leading into it. If anyone can give me advice on this I'd really appreciate it.