Transmission Limp Mode and 2 different tire size?
#1
01-23-2017, 10:20 PM
Transmission Limp Mode and 2 different tire size?
Specifics
2000 Blazer Blazer
4 Dr
2000 Blazer Blazer
4 Dr
4wd
4.3L
Just bought this vehicle with several issues, most have been uneducated owner. Example sold staying it needed a new gauge cluster. Gauges only worked when pushed the trip button, turned out to be a fuse. No 4x4 and no heater control, was a busted vaccum fitting that had been taped up. No rear defrost, plugged it in.. lol
The one plaquing me currently is transmission is in limp mode. Honestly haven't got to look a whole lot, but have checked all fuses, visually inspected external wiring. That's about it. Do plan on changing the trans filter this week because who knows if it's were been done. Will also test shift solenoids while have the pan off. It does work first thing in the morning for about 1/2 mile then goes to limp mode and will not work the rest of the day. But I just realized that they have 2 different size tires on the front than on the rear. 235/75 front, 235/70 rear. What are the odds that this is the culprit?
Main reason I'm asking is because tires and shocks are on the list to replace. Planned on doing so after got transmission fixed, I'm doing this pay check to pay check while driving it daily to get the pay checks, but if it's a likely culprit then I'll do tires now and fix both issues. But I can't afford to do both at once if it's not the culprit. Opinions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
4.3L
Just bought this vehicle with several issues, most have been uneducated owner. Example sold staying it needed a new gauge cluster. Gauges only worked when pushed the trip button, turned out to be a fuse. No 4x4 and no heater control, was a busted vaccum fitting that had been taped up. No rear defrost, plugged it in.. lol
The one plaquing me currently is transmission is in limp mode. Honestly haven't got to look a whole lot, but have checked all fuses, visually inspected external wiring. That's about it. Do plan on changing the trans filter this week because who knows if it's were been done. Will also test shift solenoids while have the pan off. It does work first thing in the morning for about 1/2 mile then goes to limp mode and will not work the rest of the day. But I just realized that they have 2 different size tires on the front than on the rear. 235/75 front, 235/70 rear. What are the odds that this is the culprit?
Main reason I'm asking is because tires and shocks are on the list to replace. Planned on doing so after got transmission fixed, I'm doing this pay check to pay check while driving it daily to get the pay checks, but if it's a likely culprit then I'll do tires now and fix both issues. But I can't afford to do both at once if it's not the culprit. Opinions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
#4
01-24-2017, 09:59 AM
Does the gear indicator in the dash stay lit when it goes into limp? Sounds like the trans is losing power at some point. They are noted for the ignition switch failure that will give these symptoms.
#5
01-24-2017, 11:13 AM
After I replaced the gauge fuse then everything in dash cluster works as it should except the shift indicator the P stays partially lit all the time, even with key off.
#6
01-24-2017, 12:01 PM
You might have a ground issue or the MLPS switch may be failed. The switch on the side of transmission where selector shift cable goes through. When changing that switch be careful as the connectors are glued in and you will break the connectors. I use a heat gun to warm the switch or you can lay a trouble light on the area and let that get it warm before unplugging. Let us know what you find.
#7
01-24-2017, 07:37 PM
Thank you transman, appreciate the help! I'm going to try to slip it in my buddies shop tomorrow evening or Thursday. I crawled underneath after work this evening and looks like that switch is incredibly close to the front drive shaft so maybe can get better access with it on the lift and full articulation, but it atleast looks plugged in. The previous owner did say they had replaced the transmission with one from salvage yard at some point. Because they sold it as needing a gauge cluster but was only a fuse and because they said that they had replaced back glass and couldn't get rear defrost to work and It just needed plugged in. Then I half way expect to find something not plugged in on the trans. I had a few minutes on the lift last week but was working on the 4x4 front axle locking before the predicted ice storm coming the next day. (Which was the vaccum lines weren't plugged into to the transfer case and the T had busted and they tried repairing it with electric tape. While it was in the air I looked around to see if I could see anything obviously not plugged in on the trans but i had several vehicles, emergency generators, emergency heaters, etc for friends and family to get ready for the predicted ice storm and didn't have time to consentrate on the trans as I'd liked at that time. Is there a way to test that switch? You also mention a ground issue. Would you think ground on trans or ground in gauge cluster? Thanks again for your help, I'll definitely let you know how it goes. Hopefully get this thing fixed soon.
#8
01-24-2017, 08:51 PM
Going to have to remove front drive shaft. Going to be a chassis ground. Engine to frame and neg. cable to frame type ground.
#10
01-29-2017, 09:45 PM
Finally got the filter changed. Fluid looks great, probably could have reused it. Nothing at all on the magnet, inside of pan looks prestine. Except had this one small piece of plastic floating around in there. Doesn't really look like the dip stick tube plug but i just don't see where it might go to.
Other than regular maintenance and getting caught up as expected nothing changed. I did check groundin various spots through out the vehicle including chassis, body, motor and trans and I have continuity every where. I started with each ground wire straight out of the battery end to end then randomly checking surfaces. From bumper to bumper and from roof to frame. Wish I could find somewhere with instruction to test the neutral safety switch. I'm hesitant to just throw parts at it not knowing if that's the issue or not.
Other than regular maintenance and getting caught up as expected nothing changed. I did check groundin various spots through out the vehicle including chassis, body, motor and trans and I have continuity every where. I started with each ground wire straight out of the battery end to end then randomly checking surfaces. From bumper to bumper and from roof to frame. Wish I could find somewhere with instruction to test the neutral safety switch. I'm hesitant to just throw parts at it not knowing if that's the issue or not.
