hey can yall tell me how to replace my tie rod ends??

 

its easy. 1st off,your gonna have a tie rod end,its going to screw into a sleeve,then the sleeve screws onto the inner tie rod. first thing you need to do is run the truck to the car wash and pressure rinse the heck out of the sides your doing. especially in the sleeves. then spray some pb blaster in the sleeve so they screw out easy.


Pop the tie rod out of the spindle. your sleeves should have 2 bolts on each end you loosen,then you just unscrew the tire rod end out until its off. But a hint you need to do is count how many threads are left showing outside of the sleeve and make sure thats how many is showing when you are installing the new ones to help with alignment. then take the truck to have it aligned.

 

hey thanks..this wil be the same on a 78 blazer right or similar becausase thats what i got..so you think this would help the front end wobble?

 

If you have a wobble,id check the pitman arm,I THINK you have a idler arm on it too that could be bad.

 

one of the tie rods is going to be reverse threads too so watch for that. there should be a lock nut behind each tie rod end that you have to spin away from the center connecting bar a bit before unscrewing the tie rod end off. and since your truck is 30 years old expect everything to be rusty and a pain the butt unless its been changed before

 

yeh i think this whole things gonna be a pain ive havent done this befor i just dont wanna mess stuff up worse than it was

 

Not really nothing to mess up. Just needs lots of washing and penetration oil.

 

Yep, PB Blaster will be your friend. Just soak all the threads with it a few times a day for a couple days and it should free up any rusted nuts. Just use a pickle fork or a tie rod puller (pictured below) to seperate the tie rod ends. If they don't pop off right away then thread the nut back on so you can wack it with a BFH while you have pressure on the TRE (or if you're using the tie rod puller just hit the top of that), just be ready for a sound like one of your neighbors is shooting at you. Assembly is as described above, just remember to torque to recommended levels, I think they're between 65-75 ft/lbs and insert new cotter pins. The directions should come with the TREs. I would recommend the MOOG TREs since they have zerk fittings you can grease. If you get the cheap ones you'll be doing this again in a years time - you get what you pay for. As for counting the threads that could be unreliable since the TREs could be slightly different lengths. I would take an accurate measurement from inside rotor edge to inside rotor edge.

 

a 5 foot pipe wrench can be your friend

 

Ramapge: that's a pitman arm remover. Useless for about anything else. And it still helps to use a heavy hammer even with it.

Sheesh! Here we go again. Watch and learn..

The Easy Best Way to Separate a Ball Joint Tie Rod End How to - YouTube

No you aint gonna damage anything.. if you dont believe me then find an old spindle and an anvil, take a sledge and beat on that sucker till you crack it.

It aint that easy to do.

On the other hand watch THIS idiot! Yes I said he's an idiot, I probably would call him a liar to his face! Total BS!!!

Here is the right sequence:
Loosen Jam nut - first.. cause it's easier that way, dont have to hold with second wrench
Remove cotter
Remove nut with socket, may have to start with breaker then ratchet.
Reverse nut and thread it on until flat of nut is even with end of pin
Give arm a couple good whacks with heavy hammer. This will shock-loosen the taper bind.
Tap nut and pin with hammer

note there is a difference between 'tap' and 'whack'
- For cases where that joint is hanging out in no-where.. like an idler arm.. back the other side with a heavy item, like a bodywork anvil or a sledge head, hit the opposite side with the heavy hammer.

If you still feel like you should use a special tool, use this from Harbor Freight:


Keep that hammer handy, anyway.