Decode engine
#1
Decode engine
Hi guys,
Although I have no experience at all rebuilding engines I decide to give it a try. when driving home with my engine there was a knock in the engine and I decided to pull it out. But before I can even start about thinking new parts (where I have also a lot of questions about) I am trying to decode the engine. I came this far:
3970010: 350 engine
It is 2 bolt main
K07 04 CKL: St. Catherines, Ontario, July, 4th, 1973/350/145bhp/TH350
Now my truck is from 1978 so I am wondering if my engine is from somewhere else. Also the number I cannot do anyhting with is 131511206.
Can somebody help me out with this that I know what type of engine I am dealing with?
Thanks!
Although I have no experience at all rebuilding engines I decide to give it a try. when driving home with my engine there was a knock in the engine and I decided to pull it out. But before I can even start about thinking new parts (where I have also a lot of questions about) I am trying to decode the engine. I came this far:
3970010: 350 engine
It is 2 bolt main
K07 04 CKL: St. Catherines, Ontario, July, 4th, 1973/350/145bhp/TH350
Now my truck is from 1978 so I am wondering if my engine is from somewhere else. Also the number I cannot do anyhting with is 131511206.
Can somebody help me out with this that I know what type of engine I am dealing with?
Thanks!
#2
Ok,from what i can find out,the engines not original. its from a 73' with california emmissions (notice the low hp) probably because of all the smog stuff. i bet its a 2 barrel too?
Honestly,id ditch it and find something else to put in it. But if you want to keep it id look into buying some better aftermarket parts for some mild performance. Whats the cylinder head numbers?
Honestly,id ditch it and find something else to put in it. But if you want to keep it id look into buying some better aftermarket parts for some mild performance. Whats the cylinder head numbers?
#4
if i remember correctly 416 heads are 305 High output heads. 58-59cc ish heads
Sounds like someone put together a engine to make it work. They do make a torquey 350 though. Look at the other head,see if its different. Im curious lol
Sounds like someone put together a engine to make it work. They do make a torquey 350 though. Look at the other head,see if its different. Im curious lol
#5
That one has the same number except for the last 3. But I assume that would mean it is the same type of head.
#6
Hey
What is the difference between a normal 350 and one with smog limitations? Is the actual engine physically different? The engine does not have any additional components installed that I could relate to smog.
Another thing I would like to know is if a 350 from 73 is the same as a 78.
What is the difference between a normal 350 and one with smog limitations? Is the actual engine physically different? The engine does not have any additional components installed that I could relate to smog.
Another thing I would like to know is if a 350 from 73 is the same as a 78.
#7
i think the block is the same its just the crap thats attached to it like they have more vacuum lines, a air pump, stupid stuff you can throw in the garbage. if you live in California you need that stuff to pass out there but no where else in the country.
not quite sure if the 73 and 78 is the same in all areas. you can probably bolt stuff off of a 78 onto it but there might be some strength differences in the block, stupid stuff like that.
for example i bought a 82 suburban that ended up having a 400ci engine from 1973 also. its become a Frankenstein motor over the years. has all the accessories off a 84 k5 blazer up front, 86 transmission, valve covers and intake from who knows what. that was always the cool thing about chevys is you can pretty much interchange everything on the older stuff
not quite sure if the 73 and 78 is the same in all areas. you can probably bolt stuff off of a 78 onto it but there might be some strength differences in the block, stupid stuff like that.
for example i bought a 82 suburban that ended up having a 400ci engine from 1973 also. its become a Frankenstein motor over the years. has all the accessories off a 84 k5 blazer up front, 86 transmission, valve covers and intake from who knows what. that was always the cool thing about chevys is you can pretty much interchange everything on the older stuff
#8
According to block identification:
1969-79 3970010 350 2 or 4 car, truck, Vette
This block was used for motors with a stock HP rating between 185 - 370.
Heads as mentioned are small chamber 305 castings, should be used as paperweights.
NastyZ28 Second Generation Camaro Owners Group is the go to place for SBC casting number identification.
There is no physical difference between early blocks up to the late 80's when they started to delete the mechanical fuel pump boss because they were going to electric pumps in the tank.
The question of if you should build your block or not probably starts with the taper of the bore. If it is already .030 over and had any measurable taper then you're going to want a new block. By the time you pay a machine shop to do the basic work to create a solid foundation you're pretty close to what it will cost for them do to the assembly, sometimes they can get parts cheaper so it is damn close to a wash to build a solid short block. I was just quoted last week $600 for a complete machined bottom end. Less if the block is better, more if I want it balanced.
From there you probably want to go for a set of Vortec heads, for $600 or so you can get complete heads that will blow stock earlier heads out of the water.
1969-79 3970010 350 2 or 4 car, truck, Vette
This block was used for motors with a stock HP rating between 185 - 370.
Heads as mentioned are small chamber 305 castings, should be used as paperweights.
NastyZ28 Second Generation Camaro Owners Group is the go to place for SBC casting number identification.
There is no physical difference between early blocks up to the late 80's when they started to delete the mechanical fuel pump boss because they were going to electric pumps in the tank.
The question of if you should build your block or not probably starts with the taper of the bore. If it is already .030 over and had any measurable taper then you're going to want a new block. By the time you pay a machine shop to do the basic work to create a solid foundation you're pretty close to what it will cost for them do to the assembly, sometimes they can get parts cheaper so it is damn close to a wash to build a solid short block. I was just quoted last week $600 for a complete machined bottom end. Less if the block is better, more if I want it balanced.
From there you probably want to go for a set of Vortec heads, for $600 or so you can get complete heads that will blow stock earlier heads out of the water.
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