I used BG #511 radiator stop leak and it seems to have fixed the problem. I'm going to keep an eye on the coolant level to make sure it is fixed.

 

I just noticed this week that the rubber molding was loose at the top of the drivers door on the frame side (roof side). It was pushing up, and I noticed that it's only held on by two sided tape which was torn vertically. A drop or two of super glue should take care of that problem. I haven't done mine yet, but it's not supposed to snow till tomorrow night.

 

While replacing intake gaskets due to coolant leak, I've run into a situation I don't know how to deal with. In disconnecting the two fuel lines at drivers side rear of engine where you have a 19mm nut you hold and a 16mm nut you turn I was able to loosen the one nearest the dist. which I'd already removed. In attempting to loosen the other one(which I think is a vapor return line), my wrench slipped and I've rounded it a little. My first thought was to try holding it with vicegrip pliers and trying to break it loose. Before trying this I wondered if anyone had encountered this before and if so how did they proceed? Apparently I should have called in one of Snow White's seven associates with little bitty hands and a special fairy tool to start with to handle this! My first attempt at undoing those lines at that particular connection. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Megapossum

 

My 2003 blazer 4.3 liter L/S had check engine light on for a couple of drives.Then it shut itself off.So I erased the code against my better judgment.Now after four road trips freeway back streets stop and go from cold start.It has been a yellow light with no hard codes but for the last week the EVAP is flashing,I have checked the gas cap seal all the lines going into the canister and it still keeps flashing without setting a hard code or a freeze frame any one out there know how long it takes the EVAP system to run its course.And either set a code or compleate its test an go to a green.I would appreciate the help I had a similar problem with a gas cap and it took a very long time and a couple of trips to Tacoma and a couple to burien is this what I am looking at again any one face this ishue befor would apreciate the feed back.

 

Either has no fluid in the trans-axle or the wires may be switched on the low high control switch so when its thought to be in 4 wheel high its not its in 4 low would explain the being noisy at 15 miles and above.Just something to think about.

 

for the seat handle that's broken go to gmseatsolutions.com cost you about 25.00 with the shipping it WORKS and takes longer to get a beer and the tools to fix.


for the tailgate that droops you need to figure out which of the pistons are no good. cost you about 15.00- 20.00 for the part, it takes about 10 minutes and you need a screwdriver and needle nose pliers.



for the number 3 spark plug you can use a socket that has a hex on the outside or there is a GM tool that costs about 30.00, I borrow my neighbors as he is a GM mechanic. but if I can get the number i'll post. if ANY mechanic tells you to lift the engine run fast from that guy.

 

At your own risk do this: Put a wooden buffer under the oil pan and lightly jack it up just enough to clear the steering housing tube. The motor mounts should flex just enough to clear. Worked for me.

 

This is iffy...

The thing I found best for that pesky spark plug us unbolt the steering shaft or use a couple universal joints to snake your way to that plug. Just use the eyes in your fingers.

 

I'm pretty sure there is NO room for a universal extension.

 

There is, I have done it multiple times.. on a 93 with 205,000 miles and horribly bad motor mounts.