- Thanks so much for mentioning that. Every time I watch a Sy/Ty truck on Youtube, or whever... I have wondered about that. Do you know if a 100% stock Sy/Ty with the Borg-Warner 4472 can run on a REGULAR Dyno, meant for a RWD vehicle, at all?
Then, there are the Dyno's made for FULL-TIME "4wd" (on dry pavement) with center differentials/viscous clutch set-ups...like the Old 3000GT VR4's, Elclipse GSX's, and the newer (awd) Lamborghini's have...where the front AND rear wheels drive the Dyno
. Could a Sy/Ty truck run on THAT type of Dyno, you think ?
- Yeah man... I'm not. I would only
run different sized tires if I knew that the transfer case was FOR SURE able to be DISENGAGED... and was.
Thanks for the heads-up though man.
Do you know if UNBOLTING the front axle- so it's NOT in there anymore would hurt the transfer case..or if that would hurt the truck to do for a few years ONCE per year ?
- Thank you for the response. Yeah, actually... maybe the SmartTrak is working as it should...b/c it doesn't bind at all (I don't think), when driving in a straight line- it's ONLY on tight corners and backing up, where it's sticking, but it DOES release for the most part after turning.
Why wouldn't you recommend the removal of the front axle/driveshaft?
(Well- I def do not want to remove the entire DRIVESHAFT...I wouldn't have to do that, would I? I thought maybe I could just remove the drive "Axle" itself... and put it back October....when I'm finished running the different size tires.
Do you know if pulling ONLY the "ATC" (auto transfer case) fuse, under the hood- will allow the front differentail to NEVER receive power, from the transfer-case? I pulled that fuse, and it FELT like it was still in AWD ! ???
I wish I had the NV236, still... I LOVE "2wd"... and my Bravada will NEVER be that! (since the front axle will always be engaged to the differential... unless, it is unbolted (but that seems like kind of a crazy thing to do...and may be too much work)
Should I just buy two more tires (in size 245/35/20) and have them mounted- then put all four 20" wheels (with the same size tires) and run them with the SmartTrak? I feel like the soft rubber on my brand new Kumbo "SPT" tires is going to get destroyed from all of the binding around tight corners and awkward road angles & hills, though.
One cool thing about both the Bravada's NV136 and the other trucks that have the NV236 is...DRIVING IN THE RAIN is def safer.... and also a lot of fun! haha
Originally Posted by swartlkk
If a flush didn't remedy the problem, the clutch is gone. Another member just had the clutch pack replaced in his NV136 to the tune of ~$350, IIRC.
My old Bravada and current Rainier did/do not hop around corners. If you get on it in a tight corner in a parking lot/etc, it will bind up a bit but then release, but not while coasting.
I would not recommend the removal of the front driveshaft.
Hey bro- thanks again for your help & replies... ! AWESOME SITE.
I wanted to add that... I just found something else out- that may be my 'culprit' to the hopping/binding on my 2000 Bravada. (with 46k orig miles and a freshly flushed transfer case)
I pulled both the ATC, AND the 4wd fuses...just to be sure the truck was only driving the REAR wheels. And when turning, on a sharp bend, especially when moving SLOWLY... I noticed that the BACK axle is sticking!
The 'locking REAR differential' <--as GM calls it... seems to be BINDING.
Does that simply mean, I need to have the rear axle drained, flushed, and filled?
Thanks to all of you- who have responded- especially the ones who are familiar with the '98-'01 SmartTrak system... you've made me feel MUCH better & confident about my purchase of the SUPER CLEAN '00 Bravada that I found and picked up last year with only 39k miles on it. So...THANKS for the support fellas