Go Back   Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums > General > General Chat
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Welcome to Blazer Forum!
Welcome to Blazer Forum,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Blazer Forum today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-08-2010, 10:08 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
mikeharry is on a distinguished road
Default Replacement of Rear Main Seal 2001 4.3 Vortec

I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy (S-10 Blazer) and am in the process of replacing my transmission. I've noticed an oil leak behind the flex plate. I removed the flex-plate and it looks like oil is weeping out below the main seal. I've noticed a number of bolts that appear to be holding in a ring/bushing around the main seal. Do I remove these bolts and remove the ring/bushing to remove the main seal? or I am i supposed to just pry out the main seal. I guess the issue that I see is that the leak is not right around where the shaft and seal meet but below this ring/bushing that is bolted in. I'm wondering if it's not my oil pan gasket that is leaking? I've attached pictures for your review.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rear Seal 2001 4.3 Vortec.JPG (264.8 KB, 120 views)

Last edited by mikeharry; 04-09-2010 at 02:36 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-12-2011, 07:52 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
Posts: 2
smiatacz is on a distinguished road
Josh Smiatacz
Send a message via Yahoo to smiatacz
Default

Hey whats going on, just seen your post, I'm under my truck tonight and can see oil leaking near the rear main, along with the oil cooler lines. Just wondering if you did this repair and how did the process turn out? Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-23-2013, 08:41 PM
Beginning Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
JIM MACGILLIVRAY is on a distinguished road
Default

It appears your main seal needs to be replaced and yes you need to remove those 4 bolts that cover comes off along with the seal inside of cover,not hard to replace and cheap.You can go ahead and change the oil pan gasket too, but you,ll have to lift the motor up.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-23-2013, 08:56 PM
cleburne red's Avatar
Senior Member
1995 Chevrolet Blazer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 783
cleburne red will become famous soon enough
Default

Well, we're kinda bringing this one back from the dead, lol. But since it's here...

I'm looking at a leaking rear main, as well. Can you change it just by dropping the transmission? I always thought you had to pull the motor?
__________________
1995 Blazer LT 4x4, 4 door. 4.3L vin "W", 4L60E, np233, 3.73 G80. 270,,xxx+ miles and going strong!!

2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LS, 2.2L, 5 speed. Not a single option, but 30+ mpg is nice. 189,xxx+ miles.

1973 Chevrolet Laguna (a version of the Chevelle) 350ci, TH-350, 2.73.

1971 Volvo P-1800E. 2.0L B20, BW-35, 4.10
Undergoing a SLOW restoration at my dads house.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-23-2013, 08:57 PM
Beginning Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
JIM MACGILLIVRAY is on a distinguished road
Default

There has been some confusion regards to rear main seal 1st - rear main crankshaft is the outer visiable seal,you,ll see it after removing the flywheel ,it needs lubrication on inside of ring ,where it meets crankshaft, marine grade grease or clean oil 2nd- rear main bearing seal, this is for the main bearing not the crankshaft ,it is a different seal # it does'nt require lubrication upon installation and it is inside and only visiable upon removal of oil pan. hope this clears up confusion also ,be sure to specifiy which seal you are requiring of the two, it could be you,ll get the wrong one, if you,re not specfic.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-23-2013, 09:08 PM
cleburne red's Avatar
Senior Member
1995 Chevrolet Blazer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 783
cleburne red will become famous soon enough
Default

Ok... I think I get it. The outer seal can be done by dropping the transmission, and that inner seal has to have the pan off (and the motor pulled.) I haven't really done much inspecting. I've been chasing an oil leak that I thought was the oil filter adapter. I've now noticed that the oil is leaking from the hole in the lower bell housing cover. I figured it was the rear main. If it can be done by dropping the transmission, I might take that on. I just really don't want to pull the motor.
__________________
1995 Blazer LT 4x4, 4 door. 4.3L vin "W", 4L60E, np233, 3.73 G80. 270,,xxx+ miles and going strong!!

2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LS, 2.2L, 5 speed. Not a single option, but 30+ mpg is nice. 189,xxx+ miles.

1973 Chevrolet Laguna (a version of the Chevelle) 350ci, TH-350, 2.73.

1971 Volvo P-1800E. 2.0L B20, BW-35, 4.10
Undergoing a SLOW restoration at my dads house.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:56 AM
Beginning Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
JIM MACGILLIVRAY is on a distinguished road
Default

We should further clarify something here,regarding removal of the rear main crankcase seal. This seal can be removed without removing the houseing ,that is those 4 bolts and the 2 securing the houseing to the block,that is a whole new kettle of fish. That would involve dropping the oil pan ,replaceing oil pan gasket alone with the rear main seal,that is the full deal. what you have to consider is it the main crankcase seal or the oil pan casket ? you can try the replacement of seal and see if that gets it ,otherwise you,ll have to go after the pan gasket,sometime the bolts get loose and need bolt sealent and thighting. You will need a special tool to press the rear main crankcase seal into place after you've plucked it out ,this tool attaches bolts to the rear crank flywheel bolt holes and press in the seal.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-24-2013, 11:04 AM
chris015's Avatar
BF Veteran
1993 Chevrolet S10 Blazer
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,640
chris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura about
YOUMADBRAHLOL
Default

Just to post this for future searches etc, Before you go pulling the trans out etc, The oil cooler line adapter. (What the cooler lines,or just the lines for the 4wd) run into. there is a large oring and paper gasket in it. the oring dries out and leaks down the adapter,onto the bellhousing cover and out that little hole on the bottom and makes it look the the rear seal is bad. The oring kit is like 8 bucks online. replace this before touching the rear. As im sure alot of your problems could be this,as ive fixed several of them causing this issue.
Part # for the kit is
Dorman 82560 is what most of us will need if its the adapter. this kit comes with the orings etc. By the way,dont torque the nuts on the cooler lines super tight or you'll cut/pinch the new seals.
__________________
Like a boss.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-24-2013, 11:51 AM
cleburne red's Avatar
Senior Member
1995 Chevrolet Blazer
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 783
cleburne red will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris015 View Post
Just to post this for future searches etc, Before you go pulling the trans out etc, The oil cooler line adapter. (What the cooler lines,or just the lines for the 4wd) run into. there is a large oring and paper gasket in it. the oring dries out and leaks down the adapter,onto the bellhousing cover and out that little hole on the bottom and makes it look the the rear seal is bad. The oring kit is like 8 bucks online. replace this before touching the rear. As im sure alot of your problems could be this,as ive fixed several of them causing this issue.
Part # for the kit is
Dorman 82560 is what most of us will need if its the adapter. this kit comes with the orings etc. By the way,dont torque the nuts on the cooler lines super tight or you'll cut/pinch the new seals.
I'm aware of the oil lines and adapter. I've replaced both sets of lines and put new o ring and gaskets on the adapter. It did slow the leak down, but it's still coming out of the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. I wish it had just been the adapter!
__________________
1995 Blazer LT 4x4, 4 door. 4.3L vin "W", 4L60E, np233, 3.73 G80. 270,,xxx+ miles and going strong!!

2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LS, 2.2L, 5 speed. Not a single option, but 30+ mpg is nice. 189,xxx+ miles.

1973 Chevrolet Laguna (a version of the Chevelle) 350ci, TH-350, 2.73.

1971 Volvo P-1800E. 2.0L B20, BW-35, 4.10
Undergoing a SLOW restoration at my dads house.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-24-2013, 04:38 PM
chris015's Avatar
BF Veteran
1993 Chevrolet S10 Blazer
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,640
chris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura about
YOUMADBRAHLOL
Default

ahhh. Hmm. Check out the valve covers,and oil sending unit,maybe distributor gasket. if all that is clean....Good luck to ya.
__________________
Like a boss.
Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 04:38 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Tags
2001, 43, blazer, chevy, gmc, install, main, pics, rear, removal, replace, replacement, sbc, seal, tranny


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:30 AM.

Internet Brands, Inc.