All I've ever done to drain the rad is loosen the petcock. Driver side facing the engine.

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They must have changed something in 2000, because the petcock looks NOTHING like that. It has a slot across it, but the slot can only be used to turn it in. Then it has a square drive in the center for a 1/4" rachet. Plus, it's on the passenger side as I stated (I just did it like a month ago).

It is A LOT easier to do this with the inner fender out. Considering that you only have to pull the battery, battery tray, PCM, & coolant bottle out to remove the inner fender, it is a pretty easy thing to do for MUCH more access.

 

HEY you use a 1/4" drive like kyle said but you only turn it about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn (counter clockwise)and then pull straight out on it. It will not come all the way out in your hand, it has a grove in it don't try to turn it more than a half a turn.

OH yea It is on the right hand (PASSENGER) side lower corner facing the engine you can access it best from the RF wheel-well in between the inner fender and the frame rail.

 

I saw that it could be completely removed, but I left mine in and just let it drain out through the hose that I put onto the nipple that comes off of the petcock. Worked like a charm.

 

More usefull info.
Thanks,

Normally I replace the hoses, water pump, and thermostat when I flush the radiator. However money is really tight right now and I need to get the fluid flushed. I figure the least I have to open to get the job done the better.

Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree. But my enthusiasm to do the flush was spured on by this recent heat wave. While driving home from 6 Flags St. Louis during the heat of the day. My overheat outside temp was showing 102 degrees. My engine rpms were at 2050, and I was cruising 70mph. My water temp was showing just shy of 210. When I bumped up my speed to pass my water temp jumped up to just over 210 and my a/c stopped working. No doubt becuase of the engine temps. So I slowed down to about 68mph and the water temp dropped to 200 or so. A/c came back on and all was well. I had about 2 hours to think about it and play with it, and the best I could come up with is it must be time to flush my system. Maybe its got the dreaded sludge build up?
After I cooled the radiator via my water house at home, I popped off the radiator cap. Coolant looked fine, a little dark in color compared to new, however I could still see down insdie the tank a little ways. The antifreeze is 6 yars old, so its due. Plsut I made sure the water through the radiator was clear and muddy, as in like mud from my wheeling excusrions was plugging up the cooling fins.

I had another thought and it might have some impact. I did remove my front splash guard, maybe the air isn't circulating like it should in the engine compartment and its getting hotter then it should, that and the extreme heat we have been expericening.

Today I drove to work, my turn in the car pool. Its 38 miles interstate one way. 65 is legal, I was doing 74 and got past by a state trooper, never seen him come up behind me. Morning comute no problem, water temp hovered around 190 like always. On the way home, same, 190. My overhead outside temp showed 98 degrees and the a/c was fine. I pull into the parking lot to drop the rest of them off, and my water temp jumped up to just over 210 and the a/c shut off. Once I got back on the road and heading home (55mph) temp dropped and the a/c kicked back on.

I am due for an oil change, and typically I am about 1/4 quart (pint) low on oil at this point. Consequently my oil pressure is a little lower then when full of oil.

I also put in the Bosch spark plugs 20,000 miles ago. I have noticed the engine seems to be a bit slugish, different gas makes no diffrence, takes a little more peddle then whent he plugs where new. MAybe the plugs aren't burning all the gas completely.

Maybe its all those factors put togehter. Or maybe its just almost worn out anti-freeze.

Just curious if I am barking up the wrong tree thinking a flush will resolve my problem?

 

I would definitely put that air damn back. That is there to create a low pressure area behind the radiator by forcing air low and under the vehicle. If air is allowed to get up into the engine bay, behind the radiator, the fan will have to work harder to pull as much air through the rad.

The lack of an air dam does not solve the temp rise when stationary, but that could just be from the temps (both ambient and increased condenser temp from the A/C workin' hard) and the lack of 'free' airflow as when moving.

Your A/C kicking off was probably due to the high pressure limit switch cutting off the compressor to save the system from damage due to the high ambient heat causing the system to really work itself.

 

All that I-state driving may have loosened any coolant sludge buildup to your advantage. G/L.

 

Once again the engineering monster in me shows it's ugly head.... That engine was designed to run a specific plug. and that's AC Delco. Now I do remember when I had my 2 Ninjas we'd run seasonal plugs in them just for the heat and cold. I'd for sure replace those plugs. Running a plug in the wrong heat range will definitely cause you some grief in more ways than one. And if your engine is gonna be a picky one you could think about runnin' a range lower (cooler) plug in that intense heat. Should you happen to decide to go that way. Just make sure you run them for a while and be particularly attentive to the engine performance and pull the plugs after a while and check how they're burning.Just run into your local autoparts store and ask them for the next cooler range AC Delco plug for your engine. FYI anyone that races will tell ya they run a specific plug for the outside conditions... Oh and a higher octane fuel will also cause an engine to run hotter in the cyl. One thing to remember. These engines and ignition systems were designed quite a few years ago and our weather just keeps gettin' more and more extreme. Engineers might not have considered the rising temps we have today and if they had... They would have probably equiped these things with a nice 4 core radiator....:P

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

Kyle and Rich definitely hit the nail on the head. You need that air dam, and this should have delco plugs. Also you are "barking up the right tree" if your coolant is six years old you need to flush it. If you are still having problems, you could also have a fan clutch going bad this will cause insufficient air flow accross the condenser (which will cause high side a/c pressure and kick the compressor off) and insuficient air flow accross the radiator which will cause the high engine coolant temp.

 

Thanks guys.
Guess I have a few more projects this weekend. [8D]