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Sea Foam treatment and oil

 
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Old 02-15-2006, 09:05 PM
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Default Sea Foam treatment and oil

Ok, I have decided to do a sea foam treatment on my blazer on Friday. I understand that you should change the oil and filter after doing the treatment, so I would like to move to a synthetic oil to better protect my engine. I run it very hard, test it to redline, and would like it to be very well lubed.

What would be a good recommended synthetic oil and high flowing filter? Is royal purple a synthetic?

Also, since I just bought this car less than a month ago from the dealership, it is completely up on maintenence. I was given the car with fresh spark plugs, oil, tranny fluid, and coolant. Do the spark plugs really need to be replaced after the sea foam? Will it mess them up or will they be ok?

Anything else that should be replaced after this treatment?
 
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:18 PM
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Default RE: Sea Foam treatment and oil

For your oil filter, I wouldn't go with high flow alone. A general rule of thumb is the higher the flow, the lower the filtration. Your oiling system is designed to run with a stock filter and run well, lowering the restriction in the filter won't gain you anything, plus it may allow harmful particles to stay in the system.

For the money, you can't go wrong with AC Delco, Wix, Napa Gold, Purolator, or Pure One.

I run Mobil 1 motor oil simply because of its protection, availability and affordability. I can pick up a 5 qt container from Walmart for $18.88 for the regular Mobil 1 syn. ($24.99 for Mobil 1 Extended). I have been using Mobil 1 in every vehicle I've owned since the stuff came out and have been VERY pleased with it. My old Intrepid wiht 150k miles at the time looked like brand new when I pulled off the intake to replace the intake manifold gaskets and while I had the plenum off, I replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube orings. The heads were a beautiful fresh aluminum color with no discoloration anywhere, with a fine coating of oil. Everything looked great. I purchased the car with 94k miles and it wasn't kept up the best. The Mobil 1 cleaned it up very well, but I am sure that any other quality synthetic would have done the same.

You really need to run what you're comfortable with. If you want to spend more for your oil change, Royal Purple or Amsoil may be the way to go, but all you get for your money is some peace of mind. Oil is oil. Synthetics do perform better than conventionals and do last quite a bit longer.

*EDIT* - The plugs should be pulled and checked after you get finished with the seafoam through the intake. If for nothing other than checking the gap.

Also, on the oil change, unless you run the Seafoam through the crankcase before making the switch to synthetic, you should treat the first oil change as if it were conventional oil and change it after 3000 miles. After that, you should be good to go longer between changes.

I'm up to 9k miles on my Bonneville w/ Mobil 1 and the last oil analysis at 6k said it was still doing great with about 50% life remaining. I replaced the filter at 6k when I took the sample. I'll do another analysis at 10k, but I don't think I'm going to push it much past that. I'm also running the filter from the 4.3L v6 on my 3800 because it adds an extra inch of filter length for better filtration and longer life.
 
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Old 02-15-2006, 11:44 PM
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Default RE: Sea Foam treatment and oil

ORIGINAL: swartlkk

Also, on the oil change, unless you run the Seafoam through the crankcase before making the switch to synthetic, you should treat the first oil change as if it were conventional oil and change it after 3000 miles. After that, you should be good to go longer between changes.
Ok, so you're still saying if I put sea foam in with my oil I should change the oil afterwards right?

With the sea foam in the oil, my oil is going to be pretty full... Is it ok to run the fluid up that high?
 
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Old 02-16-2006, 12:18 AM
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Default RE: Sea Foam treatment and oil

I would run the SeaFoam through the PVC, let it suck it in slowly. It is easier to have somebody inside the vehicle to keep it from stalling out. You want it to go in slowly. I let it suck in about 2/3 of the can and then pour the remaining in the oil. After you "suck" in the 2/3 of a can, shut off your engine. Let it sit a good 15 minutes. Then start it up, it will smoke like crazy (probably will when you let the PVC suck it in too). Then drive around until it no longer smokes. If you pour some SeaFoam in your crankcase, change it within about 500 miles.

I use Mobil1 5W30 and like it fine. I also use K&N oil filters. Mainly because they have a "nut" on the oil filter for tightening (one inch socket). I think if you search SeaFoam you will find these instructions worded better.

I did not have anybody helping me and my Blazer stalled out twice while sucking it in through the PVC.
 
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Old 02-16-2006, 12:41 AM
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Default RE: Sea Foam treatment and oil

I'm up to 9k miles on my Bonneville w/ Mobil 1 and the last oil analysis at 6k said it was still doing great with about 50% life remaining. I replaced the filter at 6k when I took the sample. I'll do another analysis at 10k, but I don't think I'm going to push it much past that. I'm also running the filter from the 4.3L v6 on my 3800 because it adds an extra inch of filter length for better filtration and longer life.

Are you saying there is 50% viscocity or 50% detergents remaining in your sample taken?
 
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Old 02-16-2006, 07:17 AM
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Default RE: Sea Foam treatment and oil

My old lab would put a OLR (oil life remaining) rating on the report. I don't even claim to know what most of the numbers on it mean, but it said OLR = 50%. I guess its their rating of the wear metals in the oil and viscosity/detergent content.

I've got to find a new lab closer to home now seeing as how I moved. We'll see if the new lab puts all that stuff on the report.
 
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:45 PM
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Default RE: Sea Foam treatment and oil

Well, I'm gonna let the seafoam run through the crankcase for the next week or so before I change the oil... Might as well let it get all the cleaning done...
 
 
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