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Ball joint flip

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  #51  
Old 06-24-2014, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by newguy
Did you have your tbars cranked, stiffening up the suspension? I didnt crank mine much which kept the suspension pretty soft. Absorbing alot of hard hits
I had (still have, but same as at that time) aftermarket keys and the bars turned up, but not completely hard cranked. I'm sure my usual luck was major contributing factor though
 
  #52  
Old 06-25-2014, 03:30 AM
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I`ve heard of this happening and check for cracks often
 
  #53  
Old 06-25-2014, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 05canjimmy
i was reading through that colorado post and the guy said he got almost 2" of lift with doing the flip( seems hard to believe but anyway) and i was thinking about it today if you put in 2" lift keys and crank and do the ball joint trick then in theory couldnt you lift the front enough to flip your leafs in the back and just level it out by loosening or tightening the keys? does that make sense to anyone? i could be wrong but thats what ive understood from this post
While the ball joint angle is a limiting factor in doing a t-bar lift the other major limiting factor is the CV axles. You can't safely get more than 1.5" of T-bar lift without the CV's starting to bind when your suspension droops. That's why people break CV's when they over crank their t-bars. The biggest advantage of the RC 2.5" lift is that it drops the front differential and lowers the angle of the CV while still lifting the truck.
 
  #54  
Old 06-25-2014, 05:30 PM
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okay makes more sense thanks man
 
  #55  
Old 06-30-2014, 12:17 PM
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So I have some 2" shackles on the way and want to crank the t-bars 1.5" and flip the ball joints while I'm at it (installing new joints at the same time).

I was looking at a ZR2 today are work (junk yard) because I was just curious, and I don't see how this is possible? The flange on the balljoint overhangs the curvature at the tip of the upper control arm or am I missing something? Just doesn't seem like the top surface of the balljoint would sit flush on the bottom surface of the control arm...
 
Attached Thumbnails Ball joint flip-img_20140630_125830.jpg   Ball joint flip-img_20140630_125838.jpg   Ball joint flip-img_20140630_125846.jpg  
  #56  
Old 07-03-2014, 12:21 PM
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common as much as people claim to have done this, someone has got to be able to shed some light on this...
 
  #57  
Old 07-03-2014, 06:36 PM
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I think there's some spacer thing that you're supposed to get to do it. I don't know 100% though. Ball joint flip just doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
 
  #58  
Old 07-05-2014, 11:09 AM
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The ball joint flip consist of nothing but exactly what it sounds like.....

I've had it on my 97 Blazer (w/ 35's) for ages.

You buy a spacer and all is safe... Flip the damn ball joint. Lol
 
  #59  
Old 09-29-2014, 07:47 PM
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So I'm back on this lol. I'm replacing my ball joints this weekend. Don't have intentions of lifting it in the process, don't even plan on touching the t-bar adjustments. But let's say I might want to crank them in the near future to get that extra 1.5" in the front... could I install the ball joints flipped and run my suspension otherwise stock and be safe? Would it all align properly still? Obviously the joints would be at an odd angle when flipped and at sock height, no more odd of an angle I would think though on a stock non-flipped joints setup with the bars cranked.
 

Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 09-29-2014 at 07:50 PM.
  #60  
Old 10-02-2014, 08:51 PM
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no insight?
 


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