Ok, a quick update.

I have not got an alignment yet because the t bars were taking a bit of time to settle. The ride is firmer than stock but no big deal.

Measurements;

22.5" from the center of wheel to the bottom of the fender.
38" from the ground to the bottom of the fender.
14" of ground clearance at the front cross member.

The RC lift is an ok lift but it is not a great kit. I am happy with the results but I knew what I was getting.









Thanks again to Jared for the help with the install and Rotti for the hints for the steering stabilizer.

 

I also installed the rear shocks today and measured them beside my stock bilsteins. The RC's are 26" fully extended and the stock were 24" fully extended. when compressed the rc's are about 1/2" longer.

 

How did you do the rear? I just finished the front on mine (except torsion keys because they are stuck in place BAD) but i cranked my stocks up pretty bad Im going to get a shop with better tools to try and do my from and my rear shackles, my shackle bolts are literally stuck in place too, wont budge at all. Im having alot of rust issues......

 

I had done shackles when the truck was only a few years old. There were rusty bolts to deal with then.....

I also added a couple of leaves earlier this year so I didn't do any of the rough country on the rear except the shocks.

I keep everything fairly well lubed which helps but the older the truck the harder the rear and t bars will be. If you look at the pics you can see that there is very little offset from the factory keys to the stock ones. Almost not worth the swap.

 

Everytime i go up any type of a bump with mine i feel like im hitting something, kinda like a clunkish noise. I figured the new keys would help that a little?

 

I'm not so sure about that. I'm thinking of the location of the adjusting bolt & 1 turn = 1/4" of lift. If that's true, how much does that adjusting bolt really move the key?
I know that depends on the threads, but if the adjusting bolt only moves the key say 3/32" of an inch for 1/4" lift at the front then consider the distance of the offset. It looks to be around 5/8" or so at the tip.
The TBars are meant to be as springs, but we also use them to increase front end height, at the cost of parts & ride comfort.

 

Maurer, Have you re-tightened the componants you've r/r or just replaced during the install?

 

Back to back with my Z

 

I know your driveway, it slopes down where your ZR2 is lol. You're just trying to make Paul feel like his is taller!

 

lol that's not my driveway, but it does slope. And his did measure a bit taller, but my tire pressure was a little low LOL, they're really close to being the same height. But his front crossmember has a couple inches more clearance than mine.