Ya the only problem that I have with body lifts
Are the frame gap and I can't find guards
Eather I'll search around more THANKS!

 

I am a bit confused. I have first gen 2.8 blazer.

If I lift it 1,5" in the front with the keys and 2" in the rear with add-a-leaf or shackles it will start to eat up my joints and other things but if I buy a 5" or 6" kit this will not happen because they are delivered with all kinds of modified parts ?

Or is it just always going to eat joints, tires and other things unless I go only for a bodylift ?

 

Torsion bar crank lifts put most of the components at greater angles than they would normally be and that's why things would wear faster.


The larger lifts drop all of the components and keep everything at close to stock angles. The only extra wear would come from running larger tires.


Body lifts keeps the suspension completely stock, so again the extra wear would come from running larger tires.

 

Does it go a lot faster the extra wear ? Maybe its better to invest in a decent liftkit.

 

I'm sure it depends how much abuse the truck sees too, but I have a body lift so I don't have any first hand experience with it.

 

Everyone's experience varies, but a lot depends on how much you abuse the vehicle, and if you use quality parts in the first place. If you're careful to check to make sure that the CV axles don't bind at full droop you most likely won't see any massive acceleration in wear. Make sure that you have your vehicle's alignment checked after you turn the t-bars up.

For what it's worth I've had my T-bars turned up about 1.5" for almost 7 years now, and I haven't had to replace any parts due to premature wear in that time. I replaced almost all the front steering components when I bought the truck in 2008 with quality parts, so I started out fresh on almost all the steering and suspension components. I did change my CV axles 4 years ago, but that was because I replaced my front differential with one from a newer ZR2 when I upgraded to 3.73 gears, and the older CV axles are not compatible. I'm just now getting to the point where I need to replace a couple tie-rod ends, and my idler arm has some play in it. My CV axles don't seem to have any premature wear, however I don't get to go off-road as often as I would like to.

I will say that a proper lift kit that keeps the vehicle's components withing factory specifications is a much better option than doing a basic T-bar lift, but for some people (like myself) budget constraints come into play.

 

When i look at BSD's, Superlift's and trail master's websites for the big lifts for a first gen S10 blazer .. do they still stock it ? 2" is the biggest I find at the superlift website.

 

So I read through this thread and still a little confused. I guess it's just a lot of information for me to take in at once. Sorry for contributing to beating this topic to death.

Like everyone with 4 door S10s, I want to fit 31s under my truck. I don't mind seeing the frame underneath. I'm most worried about wear and tear on my vehicle and would prefer not to have to trim visible parts. I don't mind cost but like everyone on this forum, cheaper is nice. I would prefer for it to not sit overly tall for safety reasons. In a nutshell, I would like it to be just tall enough for 31s to sit comfortably without hurting my trucks suspension or having to trim my fender.

My questions are these:
1. Will the 1.5" t-bar crank cause wear and tear?
2. Would a safer route to go be to install a 2 in body lift and put 31s on and if the tires still rub, then crank the torsion bar 0.5" to 1" to make them fit? Would the angles created in the suspension not be severe enough to cause noticeable wear and tear?

 

1.5" torsion bar crank ususally isn't enough to fit 31x10.5's without some rubbing. I'd suggest going with your 2nd option. Start with the body lift and then go from there. You can always add a RC 2.5" lift if you need.

 

So, a 3" body lift is the maximum for a 99 TB, is that correct?