96 blazer ignition switch stuck
#1
96 blazer ignition switch stuck
Got the top box off the column with no trouble, the bottom harness WILL not come out of the main block. No amount of turning that little bolt unfastens this harness. The sides seem to want to come out but it's like that bolt is still threaded in. ANY help or advice would be awesome. Going on day 2 of this mess.
OK so no help on that, can someone at least tell me what I might need to drill that bolt out of there? It must have gotten cross threaded or something when I replaced the column.
OK so no help on that, can someone at least tell me what I might need to drill that bolt out of there? It must have gotten cross threaded or something when I replaced the column.
Last edited by Thogert; 08-15-2013 at 01:58 AM. Reason: Combining consecutive posts. Please use the edit feature.
#2
Well, For starters, you must wait 24 hours of no response before bumping your own thread, that being said, if the bolt is unthreaded, but not coming out. try wiggling it with some pliars with some outward force.
#3
My bad, wasn't really meant to be a bump but more like I changed how I want to go about it. Do you happen to know what the actual term for the main block it plugs into is called? Is that itself replaceable?
#5
The bolt in the ignition switch connector,
threads into a nut in the dash harness connector. The nut is splined so it will not turn when you loosen or tighten the bolt. If the splines on the nut get stripped out, or the threads get cross-threaded, it will turn when you try to loosen the bolt. If you can't hold the nut from the back side, you'll need to visit your neighborhood boneyard and pick up a new male connector, and then solder it to the dash harness. The option is to replace the entire dash harness, which will require removing the entire dash. If you haven't had the dash out of a 2nd gen S or T series, plan on 8+ hours of labor, plus the new harness. Much easier and cheaper to solder on a new connector
threads into a nut in the dash harness connector. The nut is splined so it will not turn when you loosen or tighten the bolt. If the splines on the nut get stripped out, or the threads get cross-threaded, it will turn when you try to loosen the bolt. If you can't hold the nut from the back side, you'll need to visit your neighborhood boneyard and pick up a new male connector, and then solder it to the dash harness. The option is to replace the entire dash harness, which will require removing the entire dash. If you haven't had the dash out of a 2nd gen S or T series, plan on 8+ hours of labor, plus the new harness. Much easier and cheaper to solder on a new connector
#7
If only it was a bonafied nut on the back of the dash harness. Life would have been easier. It's a square flat piece with maybe 4 threads. Turns out the bolt on the switch harness had cross threaded. After I drilled/chiseled/scraped/cursed/bled away at the harness, I was able to get it off from around the stuck bolt. After that I drove two short screws into the back of the dash harness so the pretend bolt couldn't spin. Cranked on the bolt a couple times and it came out. New switch is going in today after work (day 4) Hopefully nothing is too torn up or any wires broke.
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