Best multifunction switch for 03 Blazer?
#11
I did the brake light switch and it was inexpensive...$9.??, but tricky to install. It didn't solve the no brake lights problem.
RE: the plastic cover: I took a good look at it in the daylight and found an embossed label of Batt+ on it. So I then looked at the underhood fuse/relay box. It was the protective cover for the terminal on the left side of that fuse/relay box, if you are facing the fuse/relay box from the driver's side fender. It just slides over the terminal and must have fallen down under the air box. I am sure the guy said: 'Well, next time I remove the air box , I will retrieve it.'. How many still have that protective cover on their Blazer?
RE: the plastic cover: I took a good look at it in the daylight and found an embossed label of Batt+ on it. So I then looked at the underhood fuse/relay box. It was the protective cover for the terminal on the left side of that fuse/relay box, if you are facing the fuse/relay box from the driver's side fender. It just slides over the terminal and must have fallen down under the air box. I am sure the guy said: 'Well, next time I remove the air box , I will retrieve it.'. How many still have that protective cover on their Blazer?
#12
What is the substitute for a E 5 Torx socket?
I am right in the middle of removing the old Multifunction switch and need a Torx /Star socket in E 5, which the 1AAuto guy on the posted vid says is a rare socket. It seems I read on this forum , someone mentioned you could --in a pinch ---substitute a standard 4 mm socket! Does anyone know exactly what regular socket subs. for a E 5 Torx socket. There is one on the bottom of the ignition switch area that must come out to replace this old MF switch. Please let me know so I can put this project back together and get on the road. Thanks, Jim
#13
E 5 subs. is a 4mm socket!
I think a deep 4mm may be better than the standard 4mm. I borrowed and used a standard depth 4mm and it worked with some finagling. It must be a high quality socket. I had a cheap 4mm from one of those 19.99 sets and it just spun. There is only one of these E 5 bolts on the top of the steering wheel cover.
#14
If you watched the 1AAuto vid, you get to a point in the project where you can test the MF switch before you button everything up. I did that and 'everything worked except the brake lights' and the 3rd light=CHMSL. So I am back to where I started. To recap, I have put in a new brake light switch on the brake pedal, cleaned the two hidden grounds near the radiator on the driver's side and finally a new BWD M.F. switch. I have looked at the trailer connector and it looks intact. I haven't done any elec. testing on it. It did work last time I hooked up a trailer. This SUV is a former police vehicle and had radios, sirens, and other police gear installed. This wiring and/or the removal of the equipment for the sale to the public may have caused this problem. Where do I look next?
#15
I found the 'no brake light' problem!
After putting in a Brake light switch and a M.F. switch on the Blazer and still no brake lights, I found the problem. I checked the fuses again. This time I found a 20 amp fuse in the under hood fuse/relay panel that was blown. It is the fuse on the right hand all the way down to the bottom. Thanks for all the responses and help.
#16
Replacement info
How did you remove the bolt from the junction block where it plugs in at? I've turned and turned and mine won't come out. That's all I have left to do to take mine out. I don't know what else to do.
#17
Mav, I just saw your post. I didn't have that problem on the bolt. It came out easily, so yours may be stripped. Actually, it is probably the plastic housing probably stripped when some one overtightened the bolt. I would try putting Vise grips on the bolt and pulling it out as you twist it. This is a aggravating job without having to deal with difficult bolts, also. Good luck, Jim aka OP
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