?I'm going to get a 2 way alarm with remote start and powerlock control. I have zero experience putting in alarms. I've done all of my own sound systems but I'm wondering if this is something I should try to undertake. Does anyone have any thoughts or advice?

 

It is not bad. I have probably installed many hundreds of alarms. If you need help, ask away. I have wiring information, heck, if you call, I can probably walk you through the entire install.

 

Thanks Hillbilly. I might have to take you up on that offer.

 

Pat helped me out a LOT when I installed my remote start. They are not all that bad. Especially when you get the proper bypass module!!

 

So could anyone give me a breif summary of what goes in to installing a 2 way alarm with a remote start? About how many wires get connected, which wires I'll have to track down, which ones are tough to find, stuff like that. Thank you

 

Bulldog Security's website has wiring locations/colors and bypass details for most every vehicle. Also, they may very well have pictures for your vehicle.

The key to installing the system correctly is making secure, proper connections. If you don't do it right the first time, you will be waking up at all hours of the night to your alarm system going off. Soldering connections is recommended by most (at least for remote start setups where a lot of current is passing through the wires), and I wouldn't recommend the method of electrical-taping every connection made.

You will need to access some wires along the steering column (I find it easier to tap into the wires higher up near the column rather than near the ignition switch harness just above the brake pedal because you have better access to stagger your remote start wire connections.
These wires will include the starter wire, ignition 1, ignition 2, accessory/heater and 12 volt power wires. These connections need to be made correctly and securely, they carry high currents. Also, you may want to install a starter immobilizer relay which also doubles as anti-grind relay so you don't grind the starter when the truck is already running. When the alarm is activated, this relay disables the starter wires. These relays and wires should be hidden, maybe behind the radio or over the passengers foot well.

While you are under the dash, find a suitable grounding point to connect the ground wire for the control module.

You will need to tap into the wire coming from the headlight switch. This usually includes the parking light output for flashing, but sometimes also the headlight output.

You will need to tap into the keyless entry module (if you truck is so equipped) for the power door unlock/lock unless you are installing lock actuators (if your truck doesn't have factory locks). If you don't have keyless entry, you can tap into these wires at the driver's door lock switch.

You will need to tap into the dome light circuit so the alarm triggers when the light is turned on (when any door is opened). You should be able to find this under the dash.

A hole will need to be drilled (It looks the best in a blank trim plate on the dash, if you have any) for the LED status light. This will alert you of any remote start malfunctions, why the alarm may have been triggered, and also deters thieves.

You will need to drill a hole and install a pin switch under the hood so when the hood is opened, the remote start circuit is grounded out and cannot be activated. This prevents any mechanics from chopping their hands off when reconnecting battery cables (which automatically activates the remote start, usually). This switch can be bypassed to a flip switch under the dash. It is not recommended, though.

While you are under the hood, you need to mound the alarm system siren. This should be in a hidden area, (away from any close heat sources, too) and pointed downward toward the ground so water doesn't accumulate in it, wrecking it. Wires for the siren should be hidden in the factory tubing under the hood. If a thief can shut off this alarm, it makes it that much easier to steal your car.

You will need to tap into the tachometer signal at the PCM. This will tell the remote start that the truck is in fact started. It also tells the remote start module how long to crank the engine. If you choose not to connect this wire, you can manually set a time for starter crank time or use Voltage-Sense which senses a jump in voltage when the engine starts.

You will need to tap into the brake light switch just above the pedal for the remote start. This disables the remote start when you hit the brake. It prevents people from trying to steal your car when its been remote started, and also it is the way you "switch over" power after turning the key to the RUN position.

You will need to mount and run the wire for the antenna.

You may choose to wire relays up to remotely open the rear hatch, remotely activate heated seats or rear defoggers.

Also, you will need to tap into the neutral safety switch wires. This will prevent the remote start from activating (much like the hood pin switch) when the truck is in a driving gear. Mine is actually grounded it with the same switch that bypasses the hood pin switch. Since these trucks also have shift interlocks which locks the key when the truck isn't in Park, many installers use whats called the "key sense" signal. This is then connected to the neutral safety switch wire for the remote start with a relay that prevents the remote start from running when the key is in the ignition (even if it is in the off position).

Since your vehicle has the PASS-Key module, you will need the bypass module. Many manufactures sell them including Bulldog and DEI. The instructions will tell you where to install it into the system.

I hope all of this information helps you somewhat, I've been doing remote starts for a while now and have learned most of the tricks. There may be some more wires to connect, but your installation manual for the remote start/alarm will cover them all.

Wire information can be found at:

www.bulldogsecurity.com and http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html

Good Luck!

Nick

 

I am electrically experienced, but was nervous as heck about tearing into my truck. It was 90% uneeded panic. With the help of the guys hear I got my RS installed, door locks working, heck even got the trunk latch hooked up. Booyah! My advice; Find the info online and tape a note to each wire saying what wire, where, and what color. then its a breeze to just pull your kicks and install. NOTE: mine was only RS no alarm.

Hope it helps!

 

That is exactly what I was looking for. It's a little more than I had thought it would be but I think I'm going to give it a shot. I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks a ton.

 

What kinda alarm are you puttin in? I put in a prestige 787a (think thats the model, basic alarm/remote start/keyless entry) and it was pretty easy. Best of luck on it. (i ended up mounting the siren under the battery, used some speed clips and ran the screws from the wheel well into the engine bay)

 

I've installed countless alrms and remote starts over the years. I worked at a shop in New Orleans prior to Katrina. I gave it up for several reasons, the main one being that I'm getting older and having too many back problems. It hurts me too much to be all bent over and have my back twisted to get to all the needed wires up inside the dash. Another being that too many vehicle are getting too complicated to work on. Seems like every thing has some sort of transponder these days, and all that needs to be bypassed to start the engine without a key. Not to mention more and more vehicle being controlled by a databus. Everything is computer controlled now instead of by switches and voltage being switched on and off. The switch now sends a "signal" to the computer which then sends another signal to the doors to unlock. You need a dam integration module with all the correct software just to unlock the doors on a lot of cars now. I guess I'm just too "old school".