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Have you put in your own alarm?

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  #11  
Old 04-12-2009, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoy
I've installed countless alrms and remote starts over the years. I worked at a shop in New Orleans prior to Katrina. I gave it up for several reasons, the main one being that I'm getting older and having too many back problems. It hurts me too much to be all bent over and have my back twisted to get to all the needed wires up inside the dash. Another being that too many vehicle are getting too complicated to work on. Seems like every thing has some sort of transponder these days, and all that needs to be bypassed to start the engine without a key. Not to mention more and more vehicle being controlled by a databus. Everything is computer controlled now instead of by switches and voltage being switched on and off. The switch now sends a "signal" to the computer which then sends another signal to the doors to unlock. You need a dam integration module with all the correct software just to unlock the doors on a lot of cars now. I guess I'm just too "old school".

I'm putting in a 2 way with remote start but I'm unsure as to which brand.

Am I going to run into any of these issues with my 2000 Blazer? It has a factory keyless entry.
 
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Old 04-12-2009, 08:40 PM
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In a 2000, I beleive the only issue you will have is you'll have to bypass the PASSLOCK II anti-theft system. The easist way is with a databus bypass module. You can usually buy one for about 50 bucks.
 
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Old 04-12-2009, 08:40 PM
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Most of the other issues I mentioned are mainly on 02, 03's and newer.
 
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:28 PM
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i got a 2000 blazer also, im gonna put in the crimestopper cs-2014 tw2 pager alarm remote start, i saw bypass modules for $20 on ebay, wondering if there the same thing and i heard about using posi taps. wondering if anyone has good luck with them and does anyone know any local retailers that carry them or a good site to order them off of. seems alot easier and faster then soddering plus you dont have to worry about catching your car on fire!!!

*also my automotive instructor said something about a key has to be in the vehicle in order for the bypass module to work, is he just crazy or does this disarm the pass lock with the bypass
saw some bypass kits online that requires keys, i take it then the key has to stay in the vehicle at all times (not really liken that)
found a DEI bypass that says it requires a key for programming but after that it doesn't give much info about if the key still has to stay in the vehicle.
any help appreciated
 

Last edited by Spectreblazer; 12-09-2009 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:31 PM
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Old 12-10-2009, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by NTL1991
Bulldog Security's website has wiring locations/colors and bypass details for most every vehicle. Also, they may very well have pictures for your vehicle.

The key to installing the system correctly is making secure, proper connections. If you don't do it right the first time, you will be waking up at all hours of the night to your alarm system going off. Soldering connections is recommended by most (at least for remote start setups where a lot of current is passing through the wires), and I wouldn't recommend the method of electrical-taping every connection made.

You will need to access some wires along the steering column (I find it easier to tap into the wires higher up near the column rather than near the ignition switch harness just above the brake pedal because you have better access to stagger your remote start wire connections.
These wires will include the starter wire, ignition 1, ignition 2, accessory/heater and 12 volt power wires. These connections need to be made correctly and securely, they carry high currents. Also, you may want to install a starter immobilizer relay which also doubles as anti-grind relay so you don't grind the starter when the truck is already running. When the alarm is activated, this relay disables the starter wires. These relays and wires should be hidden, maybe behind the radio or over the passengers foot well.

While you are under the dash, find a suitable grounding point to connect the ground wire for the control module.

You will need to tap into the wire coming from the headlight switch. This usually includes the parking light output for flashing, but sometimes also the headlight output.

You will need to tap into the keyless entry module (if you truck is so equipped) for the power door unlock/lock unless you are installing lock actuators (if your truck doesn't have factory locks). If you don't have keyless entry, you can tap into these wires at the driver's door lock switch.

You will need to tap into the dome light circuit so the alarm triggers when the light is turned on (when any door is opened). You should be able to find this under the dash.

A hole will need to be drilled (It looks the best in a blank trim plate on the dash, if you have any) for the LED status light. This will alert you of any remote start malfunctions, why the alarm may have been triggered, and also deters thieves.

You will need to drill a hole and install a pin switch under the hood so when the hood is opened, the remote start circuit is grounded out and cannot be activated. This prevents any mechanics from chopping their hands off when reconnecting battery cables (which automatically activates the remote start, usually). This switch can be bypassed to a flip switch under the dash. It is not recommended, though.

While you are under the hood, you need to mound the alarm system siren. This should be in a hidden area, (away from any close heat sources, too) and pointed downward toward the ground so water doesn't accumulate in it, wrecking it. Wires for the siren should be hidden in the factory tubing under the hood. If a thief can shut off this alarm, it makes it that much easier to steal your car.

You will need to tap into the tachometer signal at the PCM. This will tell the remote start that the truck is in fact started. It also tells the remote start module how long to crank the engine. If you choose not to connect this wire, you can manually set a time for starter crank time or use Voltage-Sense which senses a jump in voltage when the engine starts.

You will need to tap into the brake light switch just above the pedal for the remote start. This disables the remote start when you hit the brake. It prevents people from trying to steal your car when its been remote started, and also it is the way you "switch over" power after turning the key to the RUN position.

You will need to mount and run the wire for the antenna.

You may choose to wire relays up to remotely open the rear hatch, remotely activate heated seats or rear defoggers.

Also, you will need to tap into the neutral safety switch wires. This will prevent the remote start from activating (much like the hood pin switch) when the truck is in a driving gear. Mine is actually grounded it with the same switch that bypasses the hood pin switch. Since these trucks also have shift interlocks which locks the key when the truck isn't in Park, many installers use whats called the "key sense" signal. This is then connected to the neutral safety switch wire for the remote start with a relay that prevents the remote start from running when the key is in the ignition (even if it is in the off position).

Since your vehicle has the PASS-Key module, you will need the bypass module. Many manufactures sell them including Bulldog and DEI. The instructions will tell you where to install it into the system.

I hope all of this information helps you somewhat, I've been doing remote starts for a while now and have learned most of the tricks. There may be some more wires to connect, but your installation manual for the remote start/alarm will cover them all.

Wire information can be found at:

www.bulldogsecurity.com and http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html

Good Luck!

Nick
bulldog says a 2000 blazer does not have a 3rd ignition wire, while 12volt says it does, which one is it. bulldogs is for 1998-2003, while 12volt is just for the 2000. im confused?
please clarify
 
  #17  
Old 12-10-2009, 09:03 PM
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Check out the Ignition switch link in my signature and your questions will be answered.
 
  #18  
Old 12-16-2009, 08:41 PM
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so the 1st and secound are for the power and the third looks like a ground. am i right?
 
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