Headlights won't turn on, only DRLs work on my 97 Blazer
#1
Headlights won't turn on, only DRLs work on my 97 Blazer
Recently my headlights have been really dim during night time driving, so I've been doing my research and found that my DRLs are working, but when I flip the switch that should turn the low/high beams on, nothing comes on. The lamps light up, i.e. the interior dashboard lights. I have replaced my headlights altogether, but that did nothing.
I've narrowed it down to either the actually switch that flips to turn the lights on has gone bad, DRL relay module is bad, or a fuse somewhere under the hood that I can't find.
It's getting harder and harder to drive at night with this problem. If anyone has any knowledge of how to fix this problem, I would really appreciate it. Feel free to email me too. Thank you.
I've narrowed it down to either the actually switch that flips to turn the lights on has gone bad, DRL relay module is bad, or a fuse somewhere under the hood that I can't find.
It's getting harder and harder to drive at night with this problem. If anyone has any knowledge of how to fix this problem, I would really appreciate it. Feel free to email me too. Thank you.
#2
do you have a button on your dash under the headlight switch that says override??
#3
It sounds like your headlamp switch isn't putting out anything on the yellow output wire (connector terminal D) which is what runs to the DRL module & the hi/lo beam switch to power the lights. Also test for power on the red wire (terminal C) at the headlight switch. This power comes straight off of a fusible link feed before the fuse box and runs through a circuit breaker internal to the headlight switch. If this wire has power, but you get nothing out of terminal D (yellow wire) on the headlight switch, the circuit breaker inside the headlight switch likely has gone bad and the switch needs to be replaced.
#4
No there is no override button on my vehicle.
If the interior dashboard/radio/etc. lamps come on with the switch, is it still possible that the switch's internal fuse is blown? Which would mean that there is a separate fuse just for the headlights that connects the red power wire to the yellow output wire?
If the interior dashboard/radio/etc. lamps come on with the switch, is it still possible that the switch's internal fuse is blown? Which would mean that there is a separate fuse just for the headlights that connects the red power wire to the yellow output wire?
Last edited by swartlkk; 03-30-2011 at 02:21 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
#5
The wiring diagram shows the symbol for a circuit breaker internal to the headlight switch on side of which connects to the red wire which feeds the headlights only. The park circuit is separate and is powered by the PK LPS fuse (#3).
As I have stated, if you have power to the red wire at the back of the headlight switch, but do not get power on the yellow wire from the headlight switch, the headlight switch is likely bad.
To test the switch: With the switch disconnected and allowing ample time for the circuit breaker to cool/reset (10 minutes should be more than sufficient), you can test continuity between terminals C & D with the headlight switch turned to the headlights on position. If you do find that the circuit is not continuous, then the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. If you end up getting continuity between these terminals, then you could have a weak circuit breaker in the switch or a short in the wiring somewhere causing the circuit breaker to pop as soon as the headlights are turned on and further testing is required.
Run those tests and let us know the results if the solution is not already covered. For this process to work, you really need to run the suggested tests.
As I have stated, if you have power to the red wire at the back of the headlight switch, but do not get power on the yellow wire from the headlight switch, the headlight switch is likely bad.
To test the switch: With the switch disconnected and allowing ample time for the circuit breaker to cool/reset (10 minutes should be more than sufficient), you can test continuity between terminals C & D with the headlight switch turned to the headlights on position. If you do find that the circuit is not continuous, then the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. If you end up getting continuity between these terminals, then you could have a weak circuit breaker in the switch or a short in the wiring somewhere causing the circuit breaker to pop as soon as the headlights are turned on and further testing is required.
Run those tests and let us know the results if the solution is not already covered. For this process to work, you really need to run the suggested tests.
#6
Finally got around to fixing it. It was the switch that had gone bad. Replaced it and everything was good. Thanks for your advice, it really helped me out. Bout to upgrade to HIDs.
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