Hi guys, I just got a remote starter (AutopageRS-60) with bypass idatalink ADS-AL and I am having trouble understanding the instructions on the idatalink website.
For example, the bypass diagrams says to grab the ignition 1 output from the remote starter and plug it into the bypass, but at what point do I splice into the Car's ignition 1 wire?
The same thing for the 12v, tachometer signal, etc.
I have attached the diagram for the remote starter and the diagram for the bypass. The only thing I need is to start the car, not unlocking or brake lights. I am just confused, which instructions should I follow? If the bypass was not needed then I could install the remote starter without problems. Thanks in advance.

 

Nobody has had any experience with this idatalink bypass?
Can someone just take a guess at how this thing should be wired? Thanks.

 

I use the iDatalink pieces all day long. All you need to hook up on the module is the red to 12v constant, black to ground, blue/white to status output or bypass output from remote starter, orange to purple in OBDII connector and tie in the pink into your large gauge ignition 1 feed from your remote start. Hook up your large gauge wires from your remote start to your vehicle. Make sure you power up the 2nd ignition wire in your vehicle or you will cause damage to your trans if you remote start it without it hooked up. Should take you about an hour to install this if you solder and tape your connections. Hope this helps.

 

ok so just to be sure, the ignition output from the remote starter goes to the ignition 1 of the car and the ignition input of the bypass right?

And finally, what about the tachometer? Do I connect the remote starter cable only or also the bypass one? Thanks for your help.

 

You are correct on the ignition wire. Connect both to the ignition 1 wire in your vehicle. Connect the tach wire on the remote start to a tach signal in the vehicle only. The tach signal coming from the module is not a good one. Should be able to get the tach wire at the instrument cluster or out under the hood at the PCM.

 

And the ignition 3 wire, I do not need it right?
What exactly does it ruin in the transmission if you don't power up ignition 2?

 

I am confused once again LOL. This site says that the constant 12volt is the red/white wire(very thick).
Ready Remote™ | AutoCommand®
While this site says, it is the Red(Not as thick). So which one do I tap into to get power? Thanks.
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wir...lazer/231.html

 

In addition these sites say the tachometer wire is at the red plug (pin 20) in the PCM, but I checked this wire and it gets a constant AC voltage even when accelerating, so what's up with that?

When I check the middle pin on the ICM I do get the varying voltage with rev engine. But there is no wire, the plug only has two wires, the middle one is missing.

So what route should I take? Thanks for the help.

 

I have finally finished wiring and it worked but the RPM learning was set to the preivious car so when the car started, the remote starter continued to crank for a second or so. So now I must program the RPM learning mode.
I used the tachometer signal from the ignition coil(I just rigged a cable there).

Which type of signal should I use for the blazer?
tachometer checking type, voltagechecking type, or timer checking type?
What is the difference anyway?

 

You should connect to the following wires in your Blazer: 12v - Red and Red/White, Starter - Yellow, Ignition - Pink, 2nd Ignition - White, Accessory - Orange, 2nd Accesory - Brown.
As for the transmission damage, from what has been told to me is that the trans gets locked into 2nd gear and sets all kinds of codes.