I have a 2 part qustion...I have a 1997 blazer 4x4
Is there a fuse just for the ignition or it tied in with other stuff and the fuse for it would be under a diffrent name???
Is there a way to test if the ignition is bad itself???
Im having a tranny issue and a few poeple told me it could be the ignition switch cause right at the same time the tranny was acting up the key was getting stuck...any suggestion would be great..thanks in advance

 

If there was an ''Ignition Switch'' fuse it woudl be a Relay under the hood. Relay =Black box or Grey box fuse which you can't tell by looking at it if it is bad or not. Look at the labels on the Inner Fuse Box cover under your hood to see if one says ''IGNITION''. You sure its a tranny problem and not a lack of fuel or fuel pump not turning on? The Ignition switch I believe is located on the steering column itself. Only way I would assume to test it would be an Ohm meter and see how many Ohms it is putting out, might have to look around online to find how many Ohms your Ignition switch should be putting out

 

Wow, Ignition switches don't put out Ohms. Its a switch. Relays aren't fuses. Without the wiring diagram in front of me to reference, I remember my 99 would blow a fuse, I believe #4 in the dash fuse block. (I think it was for the dash cluster) On these fuses you CAN tell if it is bad visually. It was related to the transmission and ignition switch. Let me guess, You have a check engine light too. You can turn the ignition switch between off, run and start. You cannot turn it back into the lock position to get the key out. It's been a long time since I dealt with this issue. Cannot remember if it was the multi-function switch or the ignition switch since both switches had been replaced in the truck.

 

The ignition switch is fed power through a series of fusible links. Fusible links are wires that are made to fail if too much current flows through them. THIS POST has the related diagrams.

You can test the circuit with an Ohm meter as suggested. When the switch is in the positions noted on the wiring diagrams, you should see near zero ohms across the related pins which would indicate a good connection across the contacts inside the ignition switch. You will be testing at the large connector located under the steering column accessible by pulling the hush panel and knee bolster.

Do you have any codes present that may help limit the possibilities for the cause of your concern? Maybe you could list what is going on so we can actually diagnose that problem...?

 

This is a 97 right? My 97 doesnt have the relay box JandL_03 is referring too. My 99 and 2000 do though. I have notice wiring differences between the 97 and 99.....Get a wiring diagram specific to your year. BELIEVE me.....Ive made the mistake of using the wrong year.

 

i have the following codes
p1860, p0785, p0753, p0758
most of those refer to the shift soleniods,but ive talked to a number of people and they all said it could be the ignition switch. I talked to soome one at the chevy dealer and they said with those codes it would either be the tranny fuse or the ignition fuse or ignition switch.
I checked all the fuses on the side of the dash and i mean everysingle fuse and they all tested good both visually and puttin a multi meter to them to make sure there wasnt something i couldnt see. i also checked pwer to all the fuses and they all tested good with power to them. The #10 fuse said it was a ecm/ign fuse so i figured that was for the ignition. The post about the position about were i can move the key when in the igniton is correct i have to hit the plunger under the coloum to release the keys. I have a guy who swears its the shift solenoids and will replace them for $140 but he doesnt want to diagnoise the truck to be sure so i dont want to drop that money and find out its the ignition switch so im trying to diagnoise myself. With all that ive done so far what would be recommended for my next step of testing? thanks for the replys guys

 

My hat is off to you for wanting to troubleshoot before replacing parts! It drives me INSANE that people just guess which parts to replace without knowing they are bad!.. The troubleshooting procedure isnt hard at all to test the shift solenoids. You will unplug the connector from the ECM and check for continuity between certian pins ect ect. In my humble opinion, I find it hard to believe that multiple solenoids will fail at the same time. As for the guy wanting to replace the solenoids without troubleshooting.....Let him work on someone elses vehicle. Keep in mind though....Mine was a 99 that had this issue. The more i am thinking about it, I believe that was when the ignition switch got replaced. Have fun with that job, Its kinda a pain in the butt. (At least thats what my Ex-wife said. Yes, she replaced it. it failed when she was 1200 miles away from home.) Miss that girl.