Max safe operating voltage
#1
Max safe operating voltage
think this is the right section
For audio reasons wanting to go to a 14v setup, so charging around 16-16.2v
Anyone know what the max safe voltage is for the vehicle....Will the blazer's electronics (mainly the ecu) handle that? Don't want to fry anything. I know Tahoe's are ok with it
Tried searching but nothing really comes up
96 4.3l btw
For audio reasons wanting to go to a 14v setup, so charging around 16-16.2v
Anyone know what the max safe voltage is for the vehicle....Will the blazer's electronics (mainly the ecu) handle that? Don't want to fry anything. I know Tahoe's are ok with it
Tried searching but nothing really comes up
96 4.3l btw
#4
You have to have a completely separate electrical system since all the components in your car may not be able to handle the higher voltage.
Everything in a 16v system must be isolated from your stock electrical system.
You would need a step up transformer which allows your 12v alternator, to charge the 16v batteries.
Everything in a 16v system must be isolated from your stock electrical system.
You would need a step up transformer which allows your 12v alternator, to charge the 16v batteries.
#5
that's what i'm trying to figure out...will they handle it?
I know some don't and some will run that high daily
there's people doing it in other vehicles with no problem, older tahoes mainly
need all the alternator power I can for the system....don't want 2 separate charging systems.
Already running dual alts
And they'd be 14v batteries charging at 16v
16v batteries charge at 18v
I know some don't and some will run that high daily
there's people doing it in other vehicles with no problem, older tahoes mainly
need all the alternator power I can for the system....don't want 2 separate charging systems.
Already running dual alts
And they'd be 14v batteries charging at 16v
16v batteries charge at 18v
#6
To do it right you have to use batteries that are specifically made for that. They're simply a battery with an extra cell (or two for 16v). A 14v battery for automotive used to have a 12v post on the battery at the sixth cell for the rest of the vehicle to run at 12v nominal voltage. The 14v-16v stable amplifiers would then connect to the 14v post along with the 14v nominal alternator to charge the battery at ~16v.
As long as the rest of the vehicle is connected to the 12v post you should be just fine. The real problem will be fitting a 14v battery with the extra cell in the front of these trucks. I can JUST BARELY fit a 34/78 Deka Intimidator in the factory location (just will clear if I remove the radiator cap and angle it just right). I doubt a true 14v battery will fit in that location. Also, I've not seen a battery made that way in years.
The biggest question that needs asked is WHY do you think you NEED to up the charging voltage. If it's for competition purposes, in these trucks you're better off adding a second alternator and having a completely separate charging system to run the subwoofer amps. If you're talking about just for a daily listening system, even a big one, it's just not worth the expense and trouble IMO for the mediocre gains.
As long as the rest of the vehicle is connected to the 12v post you should be just fine. The real problem will be fitting a 14v battery with the extra cell in the front of these trucks. I can JUST BARELY fit a 34/78 Deka Intimidator in the factory location (just will clear if I remove the radiator cap and angle it just right). I doubt a true 14v battery will fit in that location. Also, I've not seen a battery made that way in years.
The biggest question that needs asked is WHY do you think you NEED to up the charging voltage. If it's for competition purposes, in these trucks you're better off adding a second alternator and having a completely separate charging system to run the subwoofer amps. If you're talking about just for a daily listening system, even a big one, it's just not worth the expense and trouble IMO for the mediocre gains.
Last edited by altoncustomtech; 10-25-2014 at 02:53 PM.
#7
Competition purposes.....going to be running 20k
Have 12k W of power right now
They still have 12v/16v batts but I'd rather not use those...not as good as dedicated 14v batteries. I already have a group 34 under the hood and actually 14v batts are smaller than 12v so I should have plenty of room.
Need all tthe alternator power I can get for the system so i don't want a seperate alt for 12v and 14v side.....might just stick with 12v and add a 3rd alternator
Have 12k W of power right now
They still have 12v/16v batts but I'd rather not use those...not as good as dedicated 14v batteries. I already have a group 34 under the hood and actually 14v batts are smaller than 12v so I should have plenty of room.
Need all tthe alternator power I can get for the system so i don't want a seperate alt for 12v and 14v side.....might just stick with 12v and add a 3rd alternator
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