my back window won't unlatch if i push the button on dash or unlock with key in the trunk, rear window wiper motor doesnt work, lock to rear doesnt work. dont know where to start looking. wiring problem or fuse?

 

check fuse first, i'd think actuator, but your window wiper isn't working either, hmm. check fuse first

 

Could be a fuse or I should say more than one. Probably more likely you have lost grounds since I don't think the systems share the same fuse and all the stuff is fairly close together. But if we knew what year truck we're dealing with it would help (inless my old eyeballs missed it in your post - which is possible). I have some wiring diagrams from 83 - 95 (Chilton) that are OJ with factory W/Ds on 84 and 94 that are the real deal.

 

based on the op username i'd think a 2002.

 

I'm having the same problem too with my rear window as well as my power locks. They work with key less entry but not with the button on the doors. It sucks *** mainly because I have a 2 door and I can't access the rear door. Try loading a whole bunch of groceries back behind you. Any help. Also checked fuses.

 

Like I said - old eyeballs (and brain too obviously)
debosse2002 These items run off separate fuses. Wikk lookthem up (at least on my W/Ds and let you know what they are. Gan't guarentee there the same on yours.
Black Betty Are you getting any power to either switch?

 

No, I have no power in the switches at all!!

 

The is a 3 amp fuse in the panel in the engine bay. This supplies power for the rear actuator plus the remoter control side mirrors and possibly the power door locks. Check that and see if it your problem.

BB, if yours is working with the fob the it is the button on the back itself.

 

the blazer is a 1995, my horn fuse was blown, replaced it and still nothing... where are the fuses located at under the hood sorry probably a stupid question but cant find them

 

I believe your power comes from the Power Accessory Circuit Breaker located in the lower right side of the fuse block. Either that or the one next to it which is the Power Window Circuit Breaker. Kind of hard to tell from my Chilton W/D. My 94 W/D says it's the PACB and it's rated at 30 amps. The Chilton book lists the PACB as 20 amps. It'll be silver in color and is an auto resetting breaker. If you have electric windows and they work I would go with the PACB. You could remove it and jump around it to see if that's the problem. Either that or just break down and buy another one. They're less than $10.00.