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It seems as though there have been alot of posts on programming keyless entry fobs, so I thought it might be useful to put this info in one place. Maybe it can be posted in the DIY section for future reference. Here's what I have found so far, and I personally confirmed the 95 programming on my Blazer as being correct. The 95s, at least the 2 I've tested, cannot be programmed using older ground G pin instructions or the newer ON, OFF, ON, OFF instructions. I'm not sure about what other years use this little red connector. I have included a pic of it. Well here's what I have found.
To determine if your Blazer has RKE (remote keyless entry) installed, check in the glove box sticker for the proper RPO code (AU0 - A, U, Zero). If you have AU0 on the RPO code list, then your truck is equipped with it.
The RKE module is located on the hush panel above the DLC (diagnostic link connector).
Even if your truck doesn't have an RKE unit, if the wiring is present you can install an appropriate RKE module (check a junk yard) then program a fob for it as described below.
You can purchase additional fobs from a dealer ($$), or online from web outfits ($20 - 30) or on ebay ($15 - 20). You MUST get the correct fob type (check the P/N and MODEL/FCC ID) for your RKE. Used ones will sometimes need the batteries changed.
Jumpering means to bridge the connection
When you do the programming, you are assigning the fob transmitter to the RKE, not the other way around. This is why you have to program each fob you want to work every time.
I didn't check, but does disconnecting your battery erase the RKE's programming. Swartlkk said he took it to the dealer to the get some programming done as an excuse, but does someone know if it does actually? I'm too lazy to check.
19?? - 1994
*Programming erases all previously programmed fob transmitters
Locate the Dignostic Link Connector, DLC, under the driver’s side of the dash. This is the connector that an OBD scanner would be plugged in to
Locate Pin connector “G”, which will be the lower left pin connector (the side of the connector shows the letter assigned to each pin too)
Jumper pin connector “G” to a suitable ground (a wire attached to a paper clip will work)
The doors and hatch will lock then unlock to confirm the RKE module has entered programming mode
Press any button on a fob transmitter one time
The doors and hatch will lock then unlock to confirm fob programming
To program additional fobs, press any button on each until confirmation
Remove the jumpering from the connector to exit programming mode
Test each fob to confirm programming
*Programming erases all previously programmed fob transmitters
Remove 3 screws and 1 nut that hold the hush panel on which the OBD DLC connector sits (on the drivers side)
Find the RED two wired programming connector located along the 2 thick wires running from the RKE box (it might be taped to them)
Jumper the programming connector terminals (use a screwdriver tip)
The doors and hatch will lock then unlock to confirm the RKE module has entered programming mode
Press any button on a fob transmitter one time
The doors and hatch will lock then unlock to confirm fob programming
To program additional fobs, press any button on each until confirmation
Remove the jumpering from the pins to exit programming mode.
Test each fob to confirm programming.
1996 - 200?
*Programming erases all previously programmed fob transmitters
Close all the vehicle doors
Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder
Press and hold the door unlock switch and cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF
Release the door unlock switch.
The doors will lock then unlo
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The 96-97 trucks may not be receptive to the method above listed "1996 - 200?".
If they are not, try this:
LOCATE THE DIAGNOSTIC PLUG LOCATED UNDER DRIVERS DASH, A USUALLY BLACK FEMALE END PLUG, APPROX. A 12 PIN CONNECTOR.
FIND A GOOD GROUND AND TOUCH TEST LIGHT TO THE TOP PIN ON FAR RIGHT OF DIAGNOSTIC PLUG,POWER DOOR LOCKS SHOULD CYCLE.(JUMP UP AND DOWN) IF LOCKS FAIL TO CYCLE TOUCH BOTTOM RIGHT PIN. 2a - some older models ,early 96 on back you may have to touch top or bottom far left pin. ( IF YOU HAVE A GOOD GROUND, YOUR TEST LIGHT WILL COME ON AND DOOR LOCKS WILL CYCLE FORM ONE OF THESE PINS! IF LIGHT DOESN'T COME ON YOU HAVE A BAD GROUND!) THE OUTSIDE CASING OF YOUR CIGARETTE LIGHTER SOCKET IS A GOOD GROUND IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE WITH ONE.
AS SOON AS LOCKS CYCLE, KEEP THE GROUND AND PIN CONNECTED , HOLD DOWN BOTH THE UNLOCK BUTTON AND LOCK BUTTON ON THE NEW KEYLESS REMOTE AT THE SAME TIME UNTIL DOOR LOCKS CYCLE.(THIS MAY TAKE 5-20 SECONDS)
MAINTAIN CONNECTION WITH TEST LIGHT , TAKE 2ND NEW OR OLD REMOTE AND PRESS AND HOLD DOWN LOCK AND UNLOCK BUTTONS ON REMOTE UNTIL LOCKS CYCLE.