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I going to say something here I probably shouldn't because one I'll get a bunch of flax, two they don't want people to know this. First I hold an EPA Type I & II license for high pressure refrigeration. I also hold an ASE A/C Cert. I have held these for years. I worked commerical refrigeration before I retired, a friend of mine owned a shop when I retired out of the mechanical business I worked with him for a few years until he passed away.
My wife's 93 Lumina needed the A/C fixed. It was an R12 unit, well I took it to a shop that I know the owners. They pulled a vacuum fixed a smal leak & recharged with R134A. It works great. 36 degrees at the air vents. Does anyone notice anything different about this? Let me tell you. The filter/drier & oil are the same as with R12 MINERAL OIL, with R134A. Not suppose to work, The claim is that MINERAL OIL WON'T MIX with R134A the oil won't carry in R134A is the claim made by 99% of the experts. Well, If the oil won't carry then why has the compressor not failed? How long can a compressor run without oil?
This is for what it is worth. I won't discuss this further, meaning I don't care if you believe it or not.
[/align][/align]Hello 4x4BlazerGuy, I was hoping you'd be able to clear something up for me.[/align][/align]Now I currently drive a 90 S-10 Blazer 4x4 w/ the 4.3l V6. It has, believe it or not, 255k miles and runs like a champ....it was my grandparents old rig that they towed behind their motorhome and/or used around the mountains in Yakima, WA. It gets hot in the summers for sure, and nice and snowy in the winters. I know they were ritual about maintenance as I have receipts that I was able to find in the glovebox. The A/C system still works, and while it blows fairly cold, it's not cold like my gf's 97 Taurus. Just today I purchased a kit from WalMart called the InterDynamics EXChill R-12 to R-134a Conversion Kit.The kit includes adapters, 3 bottles of R-134a (for high mileage, leak sealer andEster oil already mixed in) anda pressure guage.The kit claims that I need to simply have the old R-12 evacuated and then plug in this R-134a kit per the instruction/CD-ROM that came w/ the kit. My questions are this though....[/align][/align]1) For some reason, I can run the trucks A/C for hours and keep the interior mildly colder than the 90+ weather here in Boise IF i'm gentle on the gas...ie - no hard stabs off the line, downshifting to pass, etc. If I do, the fuse blows and the entire heater shuts off. I've ( I know, I know) run a wire instead of a fuse, and just stay gentle on the gas. Could this be a symptom of the truck just needing more refrigerant/oil maybe? The next question may help w/ the first....[/align]2) I temporarily connected the conversion kit connector to the low side so I could read the pressure of the truck. I have attached a picture of the pressure guage that came w/ the kit. I started the truck, let it idle for about 5 minutes w/ the A/C on full, connected the pressure guage, and got a reading of 34psi, which is in the middle of the FILLED blue area of the guage. The compressor would do a little of both, either running all the time, or cycling....if I hit the gas when it was always on, it cycle again for a few mnutes then stay on all the time. While driving, it DOES cycle though. IF I unplugged the little connector on top of the compressor while in the garage, the compressor would obviously shut off....but I also noticed the pressure would start to creep into the WARNING zone on the guage, which starts at 65psi. Now, is this a normal pressure for R-12, and also is it normal for the pressure to increase after disconnecting the power to the compressor? One thing that i wanna note, which kinda confuses me as to which way the guage SHOULD re
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1990 Blazer 2dr - 4.3TBI, Vin Z, 4x4. Took ownership in 05 w/234k, now has 255k USUALLY runs like a CHAMP
RE: wow freon!
