I have a 1993 chevy S-10 blazer 4x4 4 door engine W with CPI.
I dont have a chiltns but might get one, otherwise I was looking at the autozone write up on replacing the ball joints, doesnt look to hard.

My question is, I have to remove the hub and then push/pull the cv axel back or outto get at the ball joints right?

Also ?for the tie rods, to connect the inner and outer rods do I have to reuse the threaded sleve or do they sell new ones?

And this truck doesnt have front springs right? It just has shocks? I didnt see springs but my friend seemed to think the truck had them.

And does anyone have that link/writeup for replacing ball joints that someone posted about but didnt put a link to?

Also, I'm gonna get new shocks, can I use a breaker bar on the shock bolts or would air tools be recomended? Undercarriage is a bit rusty.

Anyone live in minnesota that might be willing to give me a hand for some $, I dont have power tools

 

I can't answer all of those for you, but I can help with some.

For the tie rods, you can buy new sleeves, they are only about $8 a pop, not bad IMO.

Your truck does not have front spring, the four wheel drives have torsion bars, you have to have some one to keep the front end up

I just used a ratchet with a cheater pipe on the end to get my bolts loose on mine, but I'm sure a breaker bar would work just as well.

Hope that helps, I'm sure someone else will be around to answer the rest.

 

Breaker bar worked on mine; just spray the bolts with a little PB Blaster first and let it soak in for a bit.

If you get the new threaded sleeve, make sure you get the new inner & outer tie rods the same exact length as the old ones. The new ones might have different-length threaded areas, so measure just in case.

Sorry, I don't know about the ball joint procedure (though I'm sure I'll need to know soon enough).

 

Cool, thanks for the replys so far, so use a breaker bar on the shocks and I should be fine. The new shocks are not to hard to get back in are they, Idon't need to compress themor compress the torsion bar?

 

come on, someone give me the link, can't find it. Need to change the joints.

 

problem is the how to got cut off (part of the problems this site has been experiencing due to an attack on the server or w/e awhile back) but here it is https://blazerforum.com/m_85219/tm.htm (it was in the helpful threads submit them here sticky right above your post)

found this one on another forum it seems a bit more complete hope it helps http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=545573

 

You don't have to touch the torsion bar. The shocks come with a plastic strap on them, holding them compressed. Put them on, then use snips to cut the plastic.

 

Thanks for the help guys, am half way done and it hasn't been to hard. I don't have a chiltons and was wondering if someone could give me some torque specs?
Caliper bolts-
shock bolts-
ball joint nuts-
36mm hub nut-
tire lug nuts-

 

Quick look at vehicle specifications link at autozone.com repair info section (i'm too lazy to go out to the garage for my book atm) shows:

Caliper bolts- 37 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
shock bolts- 54 ft. lbs. (73 Nm).
ball joint nuts- Tighten the ball joint retainers to 2 ft. lbs. (8 Nm). stud nut 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
36mm hub nut- 180 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
tire lug nuts- Standard (Steel) wheels 73 Foot pounds (Final torque) aluminum wheels 90 Foot pounds (Final torque)

 

Thanks, didn't realize autozonehad torque specs. Thanks!
I'm wondering if anyone has made a video for doing the balljoints? If not I still have to do the drivers side and would be more then willing to throw together a quality vid if you guys think it would be a good idea. I was reading somewhere and someone mentioned it.