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Problem removing Drivetrain from rear diff

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  #1  
Old 07-09-2010, 05:14 PM
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Default Problem removing Drivetrain from rear diff

I am replacing the rear axle assembly (GU6) on my 96 S10 Blazer and having a hard time removing the drivetrain from the rear differential. I removed the 4 11mm bolds and brackets, but it just won't move. I have jacked up the rear dif so it is almost even horizontally with the drive train and soaked it in WD. Am I missing something simple or do I just beat this with a big hammer until it breaks free?
 
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:36 PM
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Sounds like its frozen/rusted together. Let the rust buster soak in over night and try to give it a few good shots with a hammer. if that does not work you could try a little heat but be carefull you don't cook off the grease, rubber and, bearings in the U joints unless you are planing to replace them. Good luck.
 
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:42 PM
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WD-40 does nothing to rust. WD stands for WATER displacing 40th attempt. WD-40 is designed as a protective coating for metal, not a lubricant, or rust eater.

USe PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to eat the rust. The problem your having is the u-joint has been ther a long time and the cap has rusted in place. I use a pry bar and pry it free, if it gives me trouble a couple squirts of PB Blaster and the pry bar gets it done everytime. Make sure you dont lose any of the bearings in the cap. They must all go back in, and you must make sure there is no dirt in there. Any dirt will grind away and replacing the u-joint is a not a fun chore.
 
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Old 07-10-2010, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Hanr3
WD-40 does nothing to rust. WD stands for WATER displacing 40th attempt. WD-40 is designed as a protective coating for metal, not a lubricant, or rust eater.

USe PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to eat the rust. The problem your having is the u-joint has been ther a long time and the cap has rusted in place. I use a pry bar and pry it free, if it gives me trouble a couple squirts of PB Blaster and the pry bar gets it done everytime. Make sure you dont lose any of the bearings in the cap. They must all go back in, and you must make sure there is no dirt in there. Any dirt will grind away and replacing the u-joint is a not a fun chore.
You are correct my bad I was thinking of a rust buster and not WD40, I bow my head in shame. LOL
 
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:09 PM
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Its a common misconseption about WD-40.

Did oyu get it free?
 
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:41 PM
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Default Got it... Thanks

I let it cook over night, and then an extra day (Hot Harley nights yesterday so we road bike all day yesterday). Took the Tire Iron this morning placed it between the receiver and the two sides of the U-Joint, gently applied pressure horizontally and popped it right out. I was being very careful not to damage the U joint and it was in really good shape.

Axle is now replaced along with new rear brakes, although they are a bit tight right now, new shocks front and back. New Diff plate from AutiZone 11.99 - (Nice tip from the board) Brake lines were a pain, and e-brake was a challenge to get set... All in all a very messy but necessary swap.


Thanks everyone.
 
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Last edited by Mr Seeds; 07-11-2010 at 10:48 PM.
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